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Black Bear self defense handgun/rifle

I have taken black bear with a number of handguns with the first taking 3 shots from a 357 Mag 4". Heavy loaded 160gr hardcast. Reaction one the first shot was scared. Second shot was angry and third shot was down and out. Second bear was with a 44 Mag and just the surface difference between the 44 over the 357, the first shot was a visual reaction and there wasn't need for a second. The fight was gone. 338 Gibbs and it was lights out period. 12 gauge slug and it was lights out period.

I am with J E regarding semi-auto's with the exception that I carried a number of tuned 1911's for work for twenty years. Cocked and loacked is the only way to carry a 1911. Never had one fail to fire at any time. I use to compete in every handgun discipline and use to fire 1000 rounds and better each and every month for years.

I and my wife both carry 1911's converted to the 460 Roland for several reason's.
1. Follow up shots are right there. Lisa loves to play with the 460 and refuses to shoot my 4" 44 with anything but factory 44 special type loads.
2. It has true 44 mag ballistics and after I stood 12 feet from a really angry momma Brown Bear with two very little guys, 700 pounds of hell on 4 legs is a really fast way to ruin one's day. SO power with controlablity are job one.
3. With eight rounds ready to chop meat and another two magazines ready for action in moments, its a simply scenario- pull,click safety while acquiring target,pull trigger.
4. My wife is a tiny little 5'2" lady and like me hates the soreness and discomfort of that cylender riding under her bicep all day. The 1911 is flat, not heavy and with foward draw holster, is ready for action in a micro-second.

I would go as far as to recommend the Charter Arms Bulldog in 44 special as a better way to go than the 357 Mag. Like with anything else. If you do not practice every week or two its a waste of money to carry anything. One might as well leave all guns home because bear are illiterate. They do not know how truely awesome the power your gun might have if discharged. In the moments you have during a bear attack one must know what to do without thinking. Regardless of weapon. If you can not pull and shoot hitting a paper plate in two seconds then you had better hope and pray that they stop and start popping their teeth. Yes they do but not always. Then if you can not visualize the extreme life or death drama and nerves involved with,during and after this type of encounter then take my word for it. I have been there a number of times. If you are not practiced then?

Here is a real world story for you to think about. Two Dad's and two 12 year old son's walking down a longing road deer hunting. SOns are thirty feet behind dad's when Dad # 1 hear's a terrified DDDAAADDDD! Both fathers spin in unison and have time to flip and fire their 300 mags from their hips. L:iterally knocking an old sow brown bear sideways or she would have hit one of them. SHe skidded 12 feet past and was coming back when they re-chambered a live round and both put bullets in her head at 5 feet!

Elapsed time---------- 2 seconds!

Neal
 
Alot of good suggestions. I'll add my experience. My experience of growing up with black and grizz in my backyard and being charged by both leads me to carry my trusty Mossberg 590A1 loaded with slugs and buckshot. Like many people here have already stated bears are notoriously stubborn when it comes to dying. When they charge you usually only have a shot through the head. Crank 'em with the slug then whether they are down or not follow up immediately with buckshot to the face and another slug. Never assume that if a bear is down it is also out, I've seen plenty get back up after a glancing shot to the head. Shoot until you think it's dead then shoot it again.

Why do I use the buckshot? If the slug doesn't do it odds are that the bear is already so close that you are only going to get one more quick shot, so the buckshot goes into the face to hopefully to kill it but more likely to disorient and hopefully blind it. Then finish it off with another slug. I know it seems like a wonky strategy but it's worked before and made me a believer. If you don't believe me try it on a bear shaped target and see the results.

Start off with a slug shot at about 30 ft. Then move up 15 ft and fire the buck.

Odds are you'll never be charged by a bear if you play it smart however make no mistake if you are charged by a bear you are fighting for your life. I've seen the results of people who lost. Don't be dinner!

Just my .02

P.S. If a shotgun isn't your bag I've seen alot of guys who are excellent shots with their 30-30's and large bore guide guns who can whip off 3 accurate shots faster than you can blink. Takes big steely nut's to stand your ground and get those shots off accuratley though. Think stress fire practice.

-John
 
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Thanks for this, I wonder about it. Back in school in engineering class or physics we learned 1/2mv squared, mass or velocity being interchangeable. When you get into advanced stuff it gets tweaky though.

I have yet to find online any study of this phenomena related to bullets and game ie bigger slower bullets being more effective, would be interested in any references. I trust the wisdom of the people with loads of experience, it just doesn't show up in the energy charts at the Federal Ammo site.

Have you ever heard about the Taylor Index?
See:
Topic of the Month

I don't have the personal experience with game to back up Taylor's theory, but I certainly agree in theory that the bullets total kinetic energy at the time of impact isn't the end all and be all. It can't be. Besides the obvious example that a bullet could pass all the way through a target with lots of speed left (ie. much of the energy was not imparted on to the animal) - in which case the delivered energy is much lower than the kinetic energy of the bullet at the moment of impact. There is also differences in effect of the same amounts of energy applied differently (different time scale or different sized area of impact). I mean, isn't that why autoloader rifles seem to kick less? It's the same amount of free-recoil energy from the cartridge but applied to the shooter over a longer period of time so the instantaneous acceleration of the gun and shooter are not as high and it seems less 'shocking' - at least in my experience. Imagine shooting the gun with an extremely pointy tip where your butt plate is. Your body would not be pushed back from the kick as much as it would be pierced because it didn't provide a 'solid' surface for the kinetic energy to be transfered to the body. I think this is where the taylor index comes in. If you get hit with a big caliber bullet, all else being equal, I think it will impart the energy with more shock because it takes more 'work' to pierce through the target surface - more push less pierce seems to equal more shock because it accelerates the targets whole mass more quickly. And then there is the hydrostatic shock created, which again, I think is higher when there is more bullet diameter to 'push' target material instead of 'pierce'. Just my opinion, would love to hear what you guys with more experience think of all this!

John
 
John

I subscribe to both schools of thought. I know what a 300-400 grain bullets does from a 45-70, to anything it hits. I have killed an aweful lot of game out to 600 yards with a standard 243 and 85-100 grain bullets.

So for 20 some years I have conbined both speed and surface diameter with the various 338's. Initually I wanted to duplicate the 06 rifle preformance from a handgun. Hence my 338 Gibbs look-a-like has a standard 180gr Accubond at 2800fps from a 17" handgun barrel. Then the 338WSM at an additional 100fps.

Monday or Tuesday of next week my 19" barrel 338 Edge will be here and I am hoping for 2900fps with a 200grain bullet and I would be ecstatic with anything above that.

SO flat shooting hydrostic shock plus surface or contact diamter with bullet weight makes me feel good all over.

Neal
 
John

I subscribe to both schools of thought. I know what a 300-400 grain bullets does from a 45-70, to anything it hits. I have killed an aweful lot of game out to 600 yards with a standard 243 and 85-100 grain bullets.

So for 20 some years I have conbined both speed and surface diameter with the various 338's. Initually I wanted to duplicate the 06 rifle preformance from a handgun. Hence my 338 Gibbs look-a-like has a standard 180gr Accubond at 2800fps from a 17" handgun barrel. Then the 338WSM at an additional 100fps.

Monday or Tuesday of next week my 19" barrel 338 Edge will be here and I am hoping for 2900fps with a 200grain bullet and I would be ecstatic with anything above that.

SO flat shooting hydrostic shock plus surface or contact diamter with bullet weight makes me feel good all over.

Neal

19" barrel handgun?? how would you get that into action given that you might only have a few seconds to react to a charging bear.
 
6.2 pounds of sudden death carried in the crook of my arm. Screw in ear as you are taking the safety off, pull trigger!

BenchmarkUltralightbarrel.jpg


The Rowland usually isn't far away.

Neal
 
jbmballistics.com

click on calculations, then click on trajectories. Then you'll have a page of info to fill out. sinces its close range(under 500 yards), all the details doesn't matter, just select the bullet, velocity, max range(you don't need 3000 yards) and range increasement then calculate. Viola, you see drop, energy, velocity...
Great link, thanks. Better than the Federal website.
 
I have taken black bear with a number of handguns with the first taking 3 shots from a 357 Mag 4". Heavy loaded 160gr hardcast. Reaction one the first shot was scared. Second shot was angry and third shot was down and out. Second bear was with a 44 Mag and just the surface difference between the 44 over the 357, the first shot was a visual reaction and there wasn't need for a second. The fight was gone. 338 Gibbs and it was lights out period. 12 gauge slug and it was lights out period.

I am with J E regarding semi-auto's with the exception that I carried a number of tuned 1911's for work for twenty years. Cocked and loacked is the only way to carry a 1911. Never had one fail to fire at any time. I use to compete in every handgun discipline and use to fire 1000 rounds and better each and every month for years.

I and my wife both carry 1911's converted to the 460 Roland for several reason's.
1. Follow up shots are right there. Lisa loves to play with the 460 and refuses to shoot my 4" 44 with anything but factory 44 special type loads.
2. It has true 44 mag ballistics and after I stood 12 feet from a really angry momma Brown Bear with two very little guys, 700 pounds of hell on 4 legs is a really fast way to ruin one's day. SO power with controlablity are job one.
3. With eight rounds ready to chop meat and another two magazines ready for action in moments, its a simply scenario- pull,click safety while acquiring target,pull trigger.
4. My wife is a tiny little 5'2" lady and like me hates the soreness and discomfort of that cylender riding under her bicep all day. The 1911 is flat, not heavy and with foward draw holster, is ready for action in a micro-second.

I would go as far as to recommend the Charter Arms Bulldog in 44 special as a better way to go than the 357 Mag. Like with anything else. If you do not practice every week or two its a waste of money to carry anything. One might as well leave all guns home because bear are illiterate. They do not know how truely awesome the power your gun might have if discharged. In the moments you have during a bear attack one must know what to do without thinking. Regardless of weapon. If you can not pull and shoot hitting a paper plate in two seconds then you had better hope and pray that they stop and start popping their teeth. Yes they do but not always. Then if you can not visualize the extreme life or death drama and nerves involved with,during and after this type of encounter then take my word for it. I have been there a number of times. If you are not practiced then?

Here is a real world story for you to think about. Two Dad's and two 12 year old son's walking down a longing road deer hunting. SOns are thirty feet behind dad's when Dad # 1 hear's a terrified DDDAAADDDD! Both fathers spin in unison and have time to flip and fire their 300 mags from their hips. L:iterally knocking an old sow brown bear sideways or she would have hit one of them. SHe skidded 12 feet past and was coming back when they re-chambered a live round and both put bullets in her head at 5 feet!

Elapsed time---------- 2 seconds!

Neal
Amazing, thanks.
 
I'm now moving to Alaska and plan to carry a Ruger Super Redhawk Alaskan in 454 Cassul, or possibly a freedom Arms SA 454 if I can find a cheap one. Puma makes a Winchester 92 replica in 454 as well. I think these teamed up would do quite nice.
 
You have been given some great suggestions on calibers, my personal preference is 12 gauge slug and 44mag. What can't be stressed enough is what J E Custom said and is equally important as caliber. Go with a revolver w/o a long barrel...remember you have to be able to unholster and quickly...added weight doesn't help that. Practice, practice and practice unholstering and aiming from the hip-plenty effective at close range. We're trained to keep the holster snapped on the job in case some jerk wants to take your weapon but, in the scenario you outlined there's probably no one trying to get it so you could leave it unsnapped. However, if you practice enough then unsnapping and unholstering becomes one quick fluid movement. Also keep shooting until the animal is down. One last piece of advice unless you have proficient motor skills with an auto then I would advise against one...remember the adrenaline will be pumping and you'll react the way you trained.
 
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