Just don't drink and dremel…..Just go for it. Even if it comes out wrong, they make dremel tools so you can start over.
Just don't drink and dremel…..Just go for it. Even if it comes out wrong, they make dremel tools so you can start over.
That's not easy to doJust don't drink and dremel…..
Just use some good release agent, use a Dremel to scratch up the stock where you will bed it and add your bedding. It is not difficult, you just need to pay attention to the small details.At some point I really need to learn how to do this.
My uncle was a gun smith and he taught me how had me start on cheap Marlin model 60 22lr . That way I was not messing up a very expensive stock . I AGREE WITH TAPING THE WHOLE STOCK if you get epoxy on your fingers and don't realize it you will have it all over the stock. The devil is in the details. It takes me 2 hours of prep and 10 Minutes to do epoxy get it torque and ready to set and harden. Probably 1 to 2 hours to clean all the clay and release agent up. that is why I like to do 2 or 3 at the same time.At some point I really need to learn how to do this.
Great advice - No 2 is common on mauser recoil lugs. The difference can almost not be seen with the naked eye, sometimes less than .01, but it is enough to lock it in. Dress it with a file till you eliminate the wider flare at the bottom.2 things to watch for when you are bedding a rifle.
1--What ever you use for a release agent, don't spare it. Put it everywhere
2--Watch for a mechanical lock, ie measure the recoil lug.. make sure it is not wider at the bottom than the top.
JMO
Article from Accurateshooter how toJust use some good release agent, use a Dremel to scratch up the stock where you will bed it and add your bedding. It is not difficult, you just need to pay attention to the small details.
I do now!Does anyone else use a curing box and also check the bedding job with an indicator?
Can you provide pics on how you setup your dial indicator to measure deflection/stress? I have tried to get a dial indicator connected, but run into problems with it moving when I touch the rifle prior to releasing the torque on the action screws.I do now!
The first one I didn't back in 1976.
Without the dial indicator you would not know why it shoots terrible when you torque it to specs.
My first rifle shot fine at 20 inch pounds but at 55 in pds (spec at that time) groups opened up due to stock stress.
Dial indicator is your friend when bedding an action a stock.
First rifle that I ever bedded was a J.C. Higgins .22LR bolt. I bought that rifle to learn on. It remains the only bedding job where I didn't use Devcon Aluminum Putty.At some point I really need to learn how to do this.
I have heard of people using a heat gun to soften it up enough to allow it to be pulled apart, have you tried that?Ugh I didn't use enough release agent, any ideas or just destroy this stock and get a new one? it's a Remington sendero(hs stock) and it's stuck good ugh… it shoots fine it just won't come apart… maybe just leave it but it wasn't what I had planned…
Or freeze the whole works to try and shrink it.I have heard of people using a heat gun to soften it up enough to allow it to be pulled apart, have you tried that?