First bedding job! Axis/Boyds

[Jud96]

Things turned out better this time but not perfect. The thick layer of boot sealer(see pic) worked only marginally, still allowing some compound to stick to the action. I would warn anyone considering a similar project to avoid this product.
As you can see from the pictures, I didn't put any compound in front of the recoil lug. From the lug forward is all free floating. I am working on the theory that any contact in this area will cause deflection as the barrel heats, and therefore vertical shot stringing. My barrel is short at 21" and should not inflict unusual strain on the action.

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We have always bedded 1.5"-2" of the barrel channel and have never seen anything but great results from it.

 

[Dr. Vette]

As you can see, you're not supposed to use a product with silicone in it.

I would strongly suggest removing every bit of it and starting over. As already mentioned the Kiwi shoe polish works very well. I've even seen it work better than the release agent sent with a relatively common bedding kit. You can easily apply and buff it off 2-3 times (like your car) and it will work very well.

You might also remove a bit more wood under the forward portion of the action just behind the recoil lug. Your bedding material is not that thick here even after losing some wood after your first job.

Keep the action stress free by using tape around the barrel and a few layers under the rear safety tang. The action should be sitting only on bedding material. I would also be extremely cautious about using clamps like you do to hold it in place. I use nothing to hold my bedding jobs, and not one has ever moved. The epoxy is so thick it's not like they're going to float away.

 

[Crashman1]

I have used Minwax floor polishing paste for my release agent and it works very well, and I use Devcon for my bedding material. I don't think I would clamp on the scope like that if it were my rifle I was bedding, I like electrical tape or a spare set of action screws for mine.

 

[DryShave]

As you can see, you're not supposed to use a product with silicone in it.

I would strongly suggest removing every bit of it and starting over. As already mentioned the Kiwi shoe polish works very well. I've even seen it work better than the release agent sent with a relatively common bedding kit. You can easily apply and buff it off 2-3 times (like your car) and it will work very well.

You might also remove a bit more wood under the forward portion of the action just behind the recoil lug. Your bedding material is not that thick here even after losing some wood after your first job.

Keep the action stress free by using tape around the barrel and a few layers under the rear safety tang. The action should be sitting only on bedding material. I would also be extremely cautious about using clamps like you do to hold it in place. I use nothing to hold my bedding jobs, and not one has ever moved. The epoxy is so thick it's not like they're going to float away.

Dr.Vette,

Why do you caution against using a release agent containing silicone? Apart from the obvious fact it didn't work.

In regards to clamping the action, the rear of the action is a hinged plate which is held at an angle via a small spring. This spring tension must be overcome to allow the rear of the action to sit flat against the stock. I used the clamp with only enough pressure to overcome tis spring tension. I'm sure tape would have worked equally well.

 

[Dr. Vette]

Dr.Vette,

Why do you caution against using a release agent containing silicone? Apart from the obvious fact it didn't work.

Ummm, any questions?
Just like you don't want silicone around a body (paint) shop you don't want it around your bedding either. No good comes of it, so to speak.

This spring tension must be overcome to allow the rear of the action to sit flat against the stock.

Why?

I let plenty of actions "float" in the bedding, and let the bedding support the stock. What you want is a layer of bedding - preferably of equal thickness - between the action and the stock. That is better than having it touch, unless you have it touch pillars to support it.

 

[DryShave]

Dr. Vette, I can only suggest that you check out one of these Savage Axis rifles for yourself, with the removable recoil lug and the sprung plate at the rear of the action, they are unlike any other action. These differences introduce challenges to bedding techniques, examples of which are rare on the Internet. My purpose here is to increase knowledge, through success and failure, for others interested in tackling the same task.

 

[LoneTraveler]

So far So good. I suggest you buy your alignment bolts an inch longer and cut the head off, smooth shaft, Cut the threads off till the smooth bolt is right against the action. Use a little modeling clay to seal the threads to the action bolt hole. Threads and Bedding will grab each other and lock tight and cause problems. Modeling clay and tape are very useful to fill insets and holes to give easier release. Check with a local auto body shop most have the regular release agent. most release agents are alcohol thinned and dry to a thin flexible coat. Any release agent that contains grease or silicone work good if you get it right the first time but will not allow a second time. Will not allow epoxy to bond to first run. Good Luck

 

[Dr. Vette]

Dr. Vette, I can only suggest that you check out one of these Savage Axis rifles for yourself, with the removable recoil lug and the sprung plate at the rear of the action, they are unlike any other action. These differences introduce challenges to bedding techniques, examples of which are rare on the Internet. My purpose here is to increase knowledge, through success and failure, for others interested in tackling the same task.

I own one.

 

[DryShave]

Dr.Vette, that's super. If you have had your Savage Axis rifle for any length of time you can probably attest to how accurate and consistent they shoot even when not bedded.

 

[DryShave]

Well I made it out to the range finally and the bedding job held together nicely. The problem of shifting point of zero that I was trying to solve with the bedding job turned out to be a case of loose scope mounting rail and not the rifle itself. All four screws had worked their way loose after less than a hundred rounds. I tightened then down snug with a bit of blue locktite on the threads this time.
I did a ladder with some 150gr hornady interlocks, primarily to fireform some full length sized brass, and to see how they would shoot though not expecting much from them. The best group was 1.026" at 100yds over 57gr imr4350, so not terrible for a short, bargain bullet. Actually this was really good considering this powder was stored in a basement for the last 20 years!
Next up will be development for a new lead free hunting load for 2015 deer/moose season, it will be 175gr barnes lrx over imr 4350.
Glad to have the bedding done and some brass ready for new experiments!

 

[Elkriver]

Thea axis is probly thie most accurate gun I owned in a Bolt I got 6 hole for hole shots and 20-30 rds with in a in inch at 100 yds

 

[DryShave]

Elkriver, it's stories like yours that led me to buy an Axis in the first place. That and then they were selling for less than $300cdn., after taxes and rebates. I ordered a boyds featherweight thumbhole stock, with custom 14" LOP, and limbsaver pad.
But for me the best thing for my shooting has been the inexpensive bushnell scope, it's a new model that has 6" of eye relief. It allows me to shoot 30-06 without worrying about getting dinged in the eye with the eyepiece. This has really, in my opinion, helped my shooting tremendously.

 

[deadidarren]

Things turned out better this time but not perfect. The thick layer of boot sealer(see pic) worked only marginally, still allowing some compound to stick to the action. I would warn anyone considering a similar project to avoid this product.
As you can see from the pictures, I didn't put any compound in front of the recoil lug. From the lug forward is all free floating. I am working on the theory that any contact in this area will cause deflection as the barrel heats, and therefore vertical shot stringing. My barrel is short at 21" and should not inflict unusual strain on the action.

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i'm not surprised as it's the wrong one that's dubbin not the neutral shoe polish

this is the stuff you need and i use DEVCON and bugger all of this stuff as a release

agent . you don't need much at all it is very good .

 

[sambo3006]

I have had excellent luck using Johnson's paste wax as a release agent. I apply a thin coating then polish it after it has dried. With any release agent, you want a thin layer so as to get as close of a mirror image of the action in the stock as possible.

I personally use Jb weld for a bedding material. It is best to let it sit a while to thicken up before applying so that it isn't runny. I use plenty of tape around the stock and exposed action and apply plenty of bedding compound so that it oozes out a fair amount around the stock.

The long dummy screws are definitely the way to go. I also remove the scope and use masking tape to secure the barreled action to the stock for curing. In this way I can get nice even neutral pressure on the action without putting too much pressure which would push it all the way down against the stock thus squishing out the bedding material.

You may want to consider using pillars on any future wood stock bedding jobs as they will give you a non compressible foundation for consistent action screw torque. This will not only tighten up groups but help to maintain consistent POI throughout time and changing weather conditions.

Bedding a rifle is a skill which only improves with repetition. My bedding jobs still don't quite look professional but the groups at the range prove their effectiveness. Warning: the first successful bedding job can quickly lead to an addiction and none of the other unbedded rifles in your collection will be safe!