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1st Solo Bedding Job

I did two or three back in my early 20;s. Like Dr Vette said, the thinking was to flip the rifle upside down, mine was tied with surgical tubbing. Now I'm going to say something here and I know I will get blasted for saying this. But here Goes. I bedded my Inter Arm's Mannlicher stocked 20inch barrel, in 30 -06 almost to the very end of the stocks barrel channel. I tried the Richards Micro fit bedding back in the early 80's, Cleaned all the metal applied release agent from my Accuglass kits, roughed up the bedding with a tiny chisel and rough sand paper, and applied the Bedding . It was a lot like thick dark brown tooth paste. I thought that it IF it didn't shoot well, I could always remove the bedding from the barrel channel, and float the barrel. Not a big deal, However It shot really well. IT has stayed like that to this day. The little deer rifle has given me many tiny three shoot 100 yd groups. Yes, Sub MOA . I never shoot the Rifle so much and so fast that the barrel will heat up. Cold bore shots are usually just fine. Ok , I just wanted to share this experience, let the Punches in the head begin.
I also did a stock like that many years ago. Surprise...It was one of the most accurate rifles I ever owned! Like yours, it stayed accurate for years. I smile nowadays when I see folks posting against that as if the world is going to end.
 
I used the Forster Stock Inletting Guide screws.

As I understand it, using action screws is putting tension on the action with downward force, and the object is to create a bed for the action to sit in stress free. That's the reason I only tape it in place till dry. I know many do it with screws, and I guess if you don't tighten the screw much it would be minimal tension but it's still down ward tension.
 
And don't forget, begging the base or whatever scope mount just as important. As you can see, there's usually a gap in between the base and the action. And that was a Stiller Tac 30 action and a Stiller base in that pic. Other pic is a base after it was bedded.
 

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For all the shade it gets, Hornady One-Shot case lube works great as a bedding release(I use it for sizing cases too, with no issues). I use Marine-tex Gray when bedding. Hobby modeling clay is used to fill in holes, trigger slot and magazine port in the receiver, then a liberal spray of One-Shot. Allow it to flash off and dry, then give it a second and third coat. Never had one stick using One-Shot. I use headless action screws to align the action in the stock, a tape ring on the barrel for alignment, then use black electrical tape to hold the action in place, stress-free, while curing. Lots of great DIY videos available nowadays. Go for it! It's the quickest way to learn.
 
As I understand it, using action screws is putting tension on the action with downward force, and the object is to create a bed for the action to sit in stress free. That's the reason I only tape it in place till dry. I know many do it with screws, and I guess if you don't tighten the screw much it would be minimal tension but it's still down ward tension.
Yeah, those guide screws are not used for tightening the action, they are headless and just used to align it through the pillars. I used zip ties as holding it in place while it dries.
 
I glue the scope bases on heavy kickers, and/or use 8-40 screws, degrease action and base, scratch up surfaces, JB weld. If you ever want it off, you can use a propane torch and it comes right off.
 
The little jig I built to pull it straight up out of the stock worked excellent, no pressure in trying to pry it up from the front of the barrel. The Jig did not cost me much other than finding the picatinny rail clamps to use for JB welding the bolts to. The rest was just scrap metal I had around my place.
I might have missed it but did you post a picture of the guide screws?? Or the jig?
 
My last few "stock bedding screws" have come right out of the bulk bin @ the hardware store, then, use a cutoff wheel to ditch the head.

Just need to figure out what size/thread-pitch you've got. Or, take your action screws w/you to the hardware store and use their gauge.
 
You may want to consider adding a few bucks and getting the stock maker's screws that have built in T handle.
I want to just use them as a guide/alignment, T-handle would be in the way. I'd screw them in, cover with release agent and run it together and tape to hold it in place. Let it set up, separate. Then drill the holes out slightly bigger when dried. This would insure perfect alignment with the action screw holes.
This is a better way then I was doing. And this will show you binding if action screw pillars/mini chasis are crooked. Which I've seen with B&C stocks, 2 out of 3 times. One a 700 and once with a mod 70 stock. Before bedding you can see the holes in the bottom of the action don't quite line up with the stocks holes. You have the remove a bit of aluminum to get it to thread easily, and without any binding which I think is probably more important.
 

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