If you torque the screws, pulling the action tight into the stock, you have defeated the purpose of bedding it. The action will have full contact with the epoxy but it won't be relaxed. If you removed material to make room for the epoxy, the action will likely be under more stress than before you started, especially if you have a block in the stock.
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New Rifle and Bedding job!
- Thread starter Jud96
- Start date
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If you torque the screws, pulling the action tight into the stock, you have defeated the purpose of bedding it. The action will have full contact with the epoxy but it won't be relaxed. If you removed material to make room for the epoxy, the action will likely be under more stress than before you started, especially if you have a block in the stock.
I don't bed the full length of the action! What we have been doing has worked for countless rifles of ours and friends and have never had a problem with this method. These rifles all shoot ½" or better at 100yds. I don't think the bedding is junk. You guys do what you want, and like I said and will continue to say, I am not changing anything I do. If you want to argue and start a p*ssing match over bedding start another thread. I started this thread to show how I did my bedding job on my new rifle, not have Tom, Dick, and Harry tell me how I am wrong. Go somewhere else and tell someone that they're wrong or argue with each other, either way I don't care, just don't turn my thread into an off topic mess.
Laelkhunter
Well-Known Member
Sorry Jud96,
I didn't mean to imply that you didn't know what YOU were doing. When I started my reply, I stated that I had not ever bedded anything. I was just asking what the best way was to torque the action into the uncured bedding compound, fingertight or to torque to specs..
Sorry if you took offense to my reply, I meant no harm, nor to imply anything.
I didn't mean to imply that you didn't know what YOU were doing. When I started my reply, I stated that I had not ever bedded anything. I was just asking what the best way was to torque the action into the uncured bedding compound, fingertight or to torque to specs..
Sorry if you took offense to my reply, I meant no harm, nor to imply anything.
Your reply was fine and I respect your questions. I gave you my explanation of how I did my bedding, and I never said my technique was any better than anyone else's. Then everyone, who doesn't read or care to read my original post, begins to pretty much say I don't know what I am doing. If you bed the full length of the action, maybe you do need all those hoses and zip ties and junk and finger tighten action screws, but I don't when I use my method. I don't see how finger tightening the screws then torquing them down is stress free. If the bedding sets up with little pressure on it, how's it react when you torque the screws down to 60 inch pounds? My bedding sets up while torqued, theirs doesn't, so don't you think you would be putting stress on the bedding by torquing the bedding down that was setup while under a finger tight amount of stress?? I also don't see how wrapping all the garbage around your stock is consistent or a reliable way of clamping the stock and barreled action together. Plastic and hoses stretch and have inconsistent strengths, one zip tie may be stronger than the other. But who am I?? I don't know anything.....
Dr. Vette
Well-Known Member
FWIW, I never wrap mine at all. I want zero stress, not even from zip ties, tubing, you name it. It's not like the action is going to jump out of the stock after all. 
If done right the bedding won't compress when the action screws are later torqued. That is, after all, the point of using quality material.
You have every right to do what you wish with your rifle, and I encourage you to do what you want. That, you see, is the beauty of ownership.
My point in replying was that general recommendation from gunsmiths with far more experience than either of us is to avoid torquing of the action screws nor introducing any type of stress at all, and I wanted to pass that on to Laelkhunter since he asked the question in the middle of your thread. As you see, at times threads take interesting turns that were unintended.
Oh, and I did read the whole thread before commenting. I always do.
If done right the bedding won't compress when the action screws are later torqued. That is, after all, the point of using quality material.
You have every right to do what you wish with your rifle, and I encourage you to do what you want. That, you see, is the beauty of ownership.
My point in replying was that general recommendation from gunsmiths with far more experience than either of us is to avoid torquing of the action screws nor introducing any type of stress at all, and I wanted to pass that on to Laelkhunter since he asked the question in the middle of your thread. As you see, at times threads take interesting turns that were unintended.
Oh, and I did read the whole thread before commenting. I always do.
Nice job. The rem 700 lr has been a great gun for me. I have been complaining doing a bed job on my also it has been very good out of the box. Trigger is OK but for me I think a swap is in store. I got mine to go .3 @ 100 yards with the berger 185 vlds. Keep us posted on how she shoots and if you don't mind a review about your vortex scope. I been looking into them for my 300 win mag.
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
Look for IMR 7828 SSC. I've been down the whole "Retumbo and H1000 are the best" road, and the fact is, they're not. The best powder, is the best one that works for you, and that your rifles like. My experiences and load development with 7828 SSC and Berger 168's for my lightweight 7mmRM deer rifle has it stacking 3 in a 5/8" group at 100 (I only use this rifle for inside of 500 yard shots), and the velocites were very fast with no pressure signs.
If you want H1000, go for it, but if you want to start shooting today, and want an alternative powder that works just as well, I recommend 7828.
BUSTINDOGS
Well-Known Member
I want to tag in to see how this rifle shoots. i looked for a 700 lr for a while then bought a savage lrh in 7mm rem mag because i couldnt find a 700 lr and i got a good deal on the sasavage. And i will second the 7828 ssc its usually on the shelf and has been working well for me with 168 bergers
barnesuser28
Well-Known Member
I only use the zip ties and tubing to keep the barrel from drooping and pulling the tang (if its a rem 700) off my rear pillar. It also makes sure i have good solid contact with my pillars. I was just throwing out there another way to bed a rifle. Never hurts to look at things another way and from another perspective.
jsthntn247
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 14, 2009
- Messages
- 887
The best way to do it is bed the pillars first then skim bed the action with the screws torqued on the pillars. If skim bedding a block I use one piece of tape wrapped near the rear action screw to keep the tang from lifting. I believe zip ties can cause flex, if your action and barrel are setting level by the amount of tape you put in the front of the barrel channel, you don't need much to keep it from lifting.
Yesterday I sat downstairs and prepped 40 WCC military casings that I acquired a while ago. I converted 60 of the original one hundred into .308 Normas previously so only had forty .300s left to work with. This stuff seems to be good brass. I FL sized them, trimmed them to 2.610", deburred and chamfered the case mouths, uniformed the primer pockets, and then threw them in the tumbler to clean them up. Not one casing had a burr in the flash hole, but I went ahead and made sure and checked them all with a flash hole deburring tool.
They are still in the tumbler, but I plan on priming them tomorrow with Remington 9 1/2 Magnum Rifle primers. Going to start working a load up using IMR 7828 and a 190 SMK. Ordering my rings and base on pay day (Thursday) so will have the rifle rolling by next week. Looking into a Leupold Mark 4 base with 15 MOA and Leupold PRW 30mm rings. May change my mind but my cousin has PRW rings on his .240 now and he really likes them and they look sturdy. Don't want to spend too much over $100 so high dollar rings are out of the question right now, just want something that is stout and looks good. I found the base for like $60 and the rings for $52 so I am a little over my budget but not by much.
Any suggestions or general conversation is appreciated. Really looking forward to how it shoots so I will keep you all updated. gun)
They are still in the tumbler, but I plan on priming them tomorrow with Remington 9 1/2 Magnum Rifle primers. Going to start working a load up using IMR 7828 and a 190 SMK. Ordering my rings and base on pay day (Thursday) so will have the rifle rolling by next week. Looking into a Leupold Mark 4 base with 15 MOA and Leupold PRW 30mm rings. May change my mind but my cousin has PRW rings on his .240 now and he really likes them and they look sturdy. Don't want to spend too much over $100 so high dollar rings are out of the question right now, just want something that is stout and looks good. I found the base for like $60 and the rings for $52 so I am a little over my budget but not by much.
Any suggestions or general conversation is appreciated. Really looking forward to how it shoots so I will keep you all updated. gun)
BUSTINDOGS
Well-Known Member
I put rings on my savage from DNZ products it worth checking them out
MudRunner2005
Well-Known Member
I've had one of the DNZ Gamereaper 1-piece mounts for a couple of years now, and it's been a solid mount for the money. It's also very light.
Their customer service is second-to-none! I had a screw break off in it (my fault) and the head stripped out of the other one on the back, and called them and bought 8 new screws, and one new rear scope cap (had to cut the old one off, long story). They sent me the cap, and a whole bag (probably 30-50) of screws, AND a whole bag of mounting screws (that I didn't order). They hand-wrote a note in there saying they were sorry to hear that their product had broken, and sent me extras incase I needed them, and to not hesitate to let them know if I needed anything else. I thought that was pretty cool. I'll definitely continue to use their products with customer service like that.
Their customer service is second-to-none! I had a screw break off in it (my fault) and the head stripped out of the other one on the back, and called them and bought 8 new screws, and one new rear scope cap (had to cut the old one off, long story). They sent me the cap, and a whole bag (probably 30-50) of screws, AND a whole bag of mounting screws (that I didn't order). They hand-wrote a note in there saying they were sorry to hear that their product had broken, and sent me extras incase I needed them, and to not hesitate to let them know if I needed anything else. I thought that was pretty cool. I'll definitely continue to use their products with customer service like that.
I've never had experience with a 1-piece mount before but I will look into them. From the pictures I looked at quickly, they seem pretty rigid and solid. My cousins and a couple shooting buddies have used Blackhawk and Weaver tactical rings, but I don't like the big bulky look. The one piece mounts I have seen look pretty sharp and not bulky so I will look into them some more.
