1st Solo Bedding Job

[Kmccord]

View attachment 584787
This is my way. leave a shelf under the last 3/16" of the tang, wrap tape around the barrel till it won't rock anymore. Put a few reference lines on the barrel so it dont end up canted or not forward or back. And clean the swushed out jb weld off immediately. I do tape it up more on newer nicer stocks like you did. The tape around the barrel makes it sit centered in the channel, that barrel channel was big on mine.
edit-
Ain't nothing to it, yours should be fine. I don't put action screws in mine. If those lines on the barrel are right it will line up just fine

That looks like a Bergara B14 HMR just like one I have, I need to bed it as well to get more practice in. I use those Inletting screws to assist in keeping bedding out of the threads in the action and to keep majority of the bedding out of the pillars. I do end up running a drill bit the size of the pillars to clean them out.

 

[ntsqd]

If it is release agent deficiency or mechanical lock, freezing it won't likely help, but I would try that first as it is the least intrusive. Next, heat to the action using a heat gun. You only need to get the action hot as in 300 F max, no need to get it cherry red or anywhere near where temper is affected. Any of the common bedding compounds, including Devcon Steel will soften up so you can pull the action out. Practice on a piece of hardened bedding compound to get the feel for how much heat you need. Heat is also the easy way to remove bedding if you want to redo it.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

Plastic Steel Putty (A)
Description:
A steel-filled epoxy putty that cures at room temperature and is designed for filling, rebuilding, and bonding metal surfaces.
Intended Use:
Industrial Use: Patching and repairing areas where welding or brazing would be undesirable or impossible
flowable epoxy is needed; duplicating or tracing masters; short run dies and molds
Features:
Applies easily to vertical surfaces
Machinable to metallic finish
Bonds to aluminum, concrete, and many other metals
Resistant to chemicals and most acids, bases, solvents, and alkalis
Limitations:
Suitability of product is determined by the end user for their application and process.
Not recommended for long term exposure to concentrated acids or to organic solvents
Typical
Technical data should be considered representative or typical only and should not be used for specification purposes.
Physical
Properties:
Cured 7 Days @ 75°F (24°C)
Typical Values
Standard Tests
Adhesive Tensile Shear
2,800 psi (19.3 MPa)
Dielectric Constant ASTM D 150
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (x10-6)
48 in/in.°F (86.4 cm/cm.°C)
Compressive Strength ASTM D 695
Compression Strength
8260 psi (57 MPa)
Cured Hardness Shore D ASTM D 2240
Cured Shrinkage
0.0006 in/in (cm/cm)
Dielectric Constant
67.5
Cure Shrinkage ASTM D 2566
Dielectric Strength
30 volts/mil (1.2 kV/mm)
Modulus of Elasticity ASTM D 638
Flexural Strength
5600 psi (38.6 MPa)
Coef. of Thermal Expansion ASTM D 696
Hardness
85 Shore D
Adhesive Tensile Shear ASTM D 1002
Modulus of Elasticity
8.5 x105 psi (5.9 GPa)
Dielectric Strength, volts/mil ASTM D 149
Solids by Volume
100
Flexural Strength ASTM D 790
Temperature Resistance
Wet: 120°F (49°C); Dry: 250°F (121°C)
Thermal Conductivity ASTM C 177
Thermal Conductivity (x10-3)
1.37 cal/sec.cm.°C

If you compare those specs to the Aluminum putty I think that you'll be surprised.

 

[Dr. Vette]

I have two that I need to bed. One is an old model 70 30-06 that I paid to get a bed job and shorten the stock. What ever he did makes it horrible to shoot, kicks like a jack mule and the muzzle jump is horrible.
The other one is a Howa 7mag that has a hogue overmolded stock.

Odds are it's not the bedding job on the Model 70. Shortening the stock can make it shoot horrible, and you don't mention what recoil pad you had then installed. Model 70s can be a challenge to bed correctly. You might be better off with a different stock?

The Hogue overmolded stock will then be a challenge to get the bedding material to stick. It might stick to the underlying plastic base, but will not stick to the rubber surface. On that one, try to bed the recoil lug alone and call it good. Be sure to roughen up the area around the recoil lug recess first, and degrease it as well. Drill a few small depressions in the plastic so the epoxy has somewhere to "hold" if you want.

 

[Horse1]

I have two that I need to bed. One is an old model 70 30-06 that I paid to get a bed job and shorten the stock. What ever he did makes it horrible to shoot, kicks like a jack mule and the muzzle jump is horrible.
The other one is a Howa 7mag that has a hogue overmolded stock.

Make sure your middle screw is just barely snug. Just enough to keep it from backing out. Otherwise you could be flexing the action.

 

[ed209clark]

What caliber?

300 RUM

 

[Victor3Ranger1]

300 RUM

Oh man, I can see this happening to me

 

[VinceMule]

Horse, I use Accra Release from Brownells, and am playing with several other release agents. I have taught a lot of guys over the phone how to bed their rifles over the years, and if they screw up, it is because they used Johnson's or Kiwi paste wax...100% of the time. The spray release agent gets in all the knooks and crannies, while a wax does not, and here in lies the problem.

So, a spray type of release agent, is then washed off with brake cleaner, just do it outside so you are not breathing all these chemicals.

Degrease the action and screws twice with brake cleaner, then put two coats of the release agent on, the results are beautiful, and I do use a magnetic base with indicator to check to see if there is any movement after bedding. If there is movement after you bed it, then skim-coat it.

Novice bedding guys will crank down on the stock screws when bedding.

 

[Alibiiv]

Well, this is my first solo bedding job, let's see what longtine88 taught me works without his assistance. I taped the dookey out of it to hopefully make cleanup a little easier and quicker. I get to verify if my jig I built to pull it out straight works as well. I think I will leave it in place until Monday afternoon, give it 72hrs to set.

I am glad to see this post. I have been glass bedding for many years. Something that have been doing is using an Erwin plastic faced clamp to hold the action into the stock while the bedding is setting up. I never thought to us zip ties. What a fantastic idea. They are a lot more flexible, manageable and easy to use, and... cheap. Great idea and thanks for sharing the photos. As for removing the action from the stock, usually a sharp blow with a "rubber" faced hammer on the barrel will help to break the bond. By a sharp strike I am not talking about a home-run out of the park smack, just enough to send a shock wave down the barrel. I have also put the bolt into the action, leaving it pulled all the way back against the bolt stop. Using thumb pressure between the bolt and the stock and well as thumb pressure between the fore end of the stock and the barrel has helped me to remove the action from the stock for cleanup. It was also great to see that you masked off the stock. For me I always mask off the stock. Usually I am bedding a rifle with checkering on it. Even if I am going to refinish the stock I always wax the stock and then I will mask off the entire stock, especially in the checkering areas. For some reason epoxy always manages to find a spot where one does not want epoxy. Great job.

 

[Kmccord]

I am glad to see this post. I have been glass bedding for many years. Something that have been doing is using an Erwin plastic faced clamp to hold the action into the stock while the bedding is setting up. I never thought to us zip ties. What a fantastic idea. They are a lot more flexible, manageable and easy to use, and... cheap. Great idea and thanks for sharing the photos. As for removing the action from the stock, usually a sharp blow with a "rubber" faced hammer on the barrel will help to break the bond. By a sharp strike I am not talking about a home-run out of the park smack, just enough to send a shock wave down the barrel. I have also put the bolt into the action, leaving it pulled all the way back against the bolt stop. Using thumb pressure between the bolt and the stock and well as thumb pressure between the fore end of the stock and the barrel has helped me to remove the action from the stock for cleanup. It was also great to see that you masked off the stock. For me I always mask off the stock. Usually I am bedding a rifle with checkering on it. Even if I am going to refinish the stock I always wax the stock and then I will mask off the entire stock, especially in the checkering areas. For some reason epoxy always manages to find a spot where one does not want epoxy. Great job.

The little jig I built to pull it straight up out of the stock worked excellent, no pressure in trying to pry it up from the front of the barrel. The Jig did not cost me much other than finding the picatinny rail clamps to use for JB welding the bolts to. The rest was just scrap metal I had around my place.

 

[ntsqd]

Horse, I use Accra Release from Brownells, and am playing with several other release agents. I have taught a lot of guys over the phone how to bed their rifles over the years, and if they screw up, it is because they used Johnson's or Kiwi paste wax...100% of the time. The spray release agent gets in all the knooks and crannies, while a wax does not, and here in lies the problem.

So, a spray type of release agent, is then washed off with brake cleaner, just do it outside so you are not breathing all these chemicals.

Degrease the action and screws twice with brake cleaner, then put two coats of the release agent on, the results are beautiful, and I do use a magnetic base with indicator to check to see if there is any movement after bedding. If there is movement after you bed it, then skim-coat it.

Novice bedding guys will crank down on the stock screws when bedding.

I'll venture that it isn't because of the product that they choose to use for a release agent. It is because they didn't do a thorough enough job of applying it. Could happen with the sprays too, just a bit harder. I've only ever used Johnson paste wax as a release agent for a range of different projects that includes bedding stocks. Never had one stick because of the release agent. Did once manage a mechanical lock in a spot where I didn't think that it could happen.

 

[Dean2]

I'll venture that it isn't because of the product that they choose to use for a release agent. It is because they didn't do a thorough enough job of applying it. Could happen with the sprays too, just a bit harder. I've only ever used Johnson paste wax as a release agent for a range of different projects that includes bedding stocks. Never had one stick because of the release agent. Did once manage a mechanical lock in a spot where I didn't think that it could happen.

Agreed. I have done litterally hundreds of bedding jobs. I tried the sprays but went back to wax each time I tried a different spray. In all, over 95% were done with pure Carnuba wax. Two coats, both let dry and buffed to a polish. I like the mirror finish it leaves in the bedding and I like the fact there is nearly zero thickness to it. Anyone sticking a gun because they used Kiwi or Johnson, both of which are Carnuba, is because they did a poor job of applying the wax.

 

[VinceMule]

The new guys I taught never had an issue with the Spray Accra Release. Several guys had major issues with wax as there is a much more complicated learning curve with the wax. Two guys had a big glob of bedding in his lug recess, while others had major issues of bedding with a permanent type of issue in other areas, Remington bolt release in particular.

Another guy I was teaching, watched me bed several of my guns at one time, and let him bed one of mine while I watched. He went home, read about the wax, tried it himself after my warning, He ended up with bedding compound in several areas he could not get out. He wanted me to get the bedding out, I told him to take it to a gunsmith costing him $230, and this was in 1987.

 

[ntsqd]

I didn't feel like it was all that complicated to use the wax, but I am an Enginerd so my attention to detail may not be normal.

 

[Horse1]

I too like the Brownell's spray.