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Ultimate Sheep Rifle Build

Based on at least 2 sheep hunts a year for 30+ years from Alaska to Texas and Washington to Asia my parameters are an all up weight (rifle + scope + bases + rings + sling + full mag + 5 rounds on the stock) of 7 to 7.5 lb. - there are many ways to get there. I prefer blind mags, barrel 22" to 24", ballistic turrets, max 9-10 power continental US 15-20 Asia. Of course build for max adverse weather conditions. After having a Night Force scope fog on me I now carry a second identical scope as backup (can move ballistic turret from scope #1 to scope #2 as needed). A second scope is much cheaper than returning to hunt the same animal again if base scope goes t**ts up - don't ask me how I know. Good luck but be forewarned that sheep fever is incurable.

Cartridge / bullet preference?
 
I have been fortunate to live in an area with a huntable population of bighorns. I have also hunted thinhorns in northern BC. Many of my friends are sheep hunters as well. Seven mags of one sort or another have been the most common cartridge used over the years, in my experience. I used a 7-06 Ackley Imp. for thirty years with 140 grain partitions and they worked well. The rifle was a 721 Rem with a Hart Stainless barrel and accurizing work done by a local gunsmith legend named Bill Leeper. I also killed sheep with .300 win mag and .270 win. Scopes were just run of the mill Leupold 3 to 9's. What I learned is good bullet construction is essential. Sheep are sometimes shot in their beds and the angles are awkward. Long shots aren't unusual and follow up shots are difficult. Most of my hunts involved lots of going up and down mountains sometimes with a very heavy pack so rifle weight mattered - but not as much as a steady hold. I can never emphasize enough that the rifle set-up must be tough. You fall on it, you bang it off rocks while you climb through boulder fields, you drag it through jack pine thickets, coming down mountains with a sheep on you back it becomes a cane, it might even be a rudder if you go into a slide down a rocky slope. Fine gritty dust gets everywhere and so does moisture. In a pinch your shirttail becomes a lens wiper that grinds sand into the lens of your scope - but you don't care because a sheep just stood up on the hillside across from you. What ever you use for equipment, don't fall in love with it. I have witness too many sheep hunting partners bouncing down mountains with their arms wrapped around their special rifle when all they had to do was let it go and stop. Sheep hunting is a disease, particularly for the young and fit, as you grow old it becomes merely and obsession. Be warned.
 
My Son has a Grand Slam on Sheep all shot with the same rifle. It is a plastic stocked
.340 Weatherby magnum with a muzzle brake. It has very manageable recoil. My Son
almost fell on his face when he took the first shot because he was expecting to be really hit hard. It's a very accurate rifle and shoots better than an inch at 100 yards. The farthest he has shot it on targets was 400 yards and he can easily hit big game at that range. I know that's point blank to you guys.
Zeke
 
This will stir it up probably.
I guide in Alaska
I was using the300 rum as my one size fits all rifle.
I have a new rifle being built.
I went with the 375 rum.
Rogue controlled round action
Manners MCS stock
Proof barrel 24 inches
Using the 300 grain sledge hammer and 329 hammer hunter.
Yea I know it's not a dedicated sheep rifle but I have to have the horse power to handle the big brownies.

I would suggest having a floor plate mag. It is much nicer to have when emptying the magazine.
This done 1 or 2 times a day to clean the cartridges and mag from water and foreign matter. That Alaska weather is horrendous at times.
 
I have been fortunate to live in an area with a huntable population of bighorns. I have also hunted thinhorns in northern BC. Many of my friends are sheep hunters as well. Seven mags of one sort or another have been the most common cartridge used over the years, in my experience. I used a 7-06 Ackley Imp. for thirty years with 140 grain partitions and they worked well. The rifle was a 721 Rem with a Hart Stainless barrel and accurizing work done by a local gunsmith legend named Bill Leeper. I also killed sheep with .300 win mag and .270 win. Scopes were just run of the mill Leupold 3 to 9's. What I learned is good bullet construction is essential. Sheep are sometimes shot in their beds and the angles are awkward. Long shots aren't unusual and follow up shots are difficult. Most of my hunts involved lots of going up and down mountains sometimes with a very heavy pack so rifle weight mattered - but not as much as a steady hold. I can never emphasize enough that the rifle set-up must be tough. You fall on it, you bang it off rocks while you climb through boulder fields, you drag it through jack pine thickets, coming down mountains with a sheep on you back it becomes a cane, it might even be a rudder if you go into a slide down a rocky slope. Fine gritty dust gets everywhere and so does moisture. In a pinch your shirttail becomes a lens wiper that grinds sand into the lens of your scope - but you don't care because a sheep just stood up on the hillside across from you. What ever you use for equipment, don't fall in love with it. I have witness too many sheep hunting partners bouncing down mountains with their arms wrapped around their special rifle when all they had to do was let it go and stop. Sheep hunting is a disease, particularly for the young and fit, as you grow old it becomes merely and obsession. Be warned.

This post says it well.
Especially the part about beating your rifle.
 
I couple years ago i built a 7 rsaum on a stiller medium action, bartlein 2b barrel , manners EH4 elite , used stiller bottom metal that came with action, put an swarovski Z5 3.5x18 . It does have a short pic rail on front because i can attach my atlas in a flash . build came in at 7.5 pds. with med action i can run 190 burgers if wanted but i killed a cow elk with it shooting 168 nobler ascu bond LR and they were devastating .At 180 yds. We actually walked up on elk in the early morn going back to bed .So i didn't get to stretch em out .. SO ,, Dats my light weight build .

one thing to consider about a med action is there are no stocks sitting around .took 35 weeks to get it . but i will admit it was worth the wait !!!
 
Well I've started another build...like I need another custom rifle... This one is gonna be a sheep hunters' dream I think, at least I hope it turns out that way. Stock is a McMillan Game Hunter with EDGE fill, barrel is a Proof Sendero Light 24" finish 6.5mm 1/8 twist, and action is TBD, thinking of going Lone Peak Ti. The caliber will be 6.5 SLR...
 
You guys have some great taste. Some of the calibers are bit heavy but to each his own. Sheep are not hard to kill...and bears don't like lead in their faces even if it's only 140 grains per dose.

I've killed sheep with 270's and my own .257 WBY. However, my favorite caliber for sheep is the 6.5 Sherman Short Tactical (SST)...a true short action caliber that pushes 140's to 3200 with far less drama, less recoil and less powder that the bigger hot rod 6.5's. The 6.5 SAUM is a great choice too...if you do not mind using a medium action.

As for the rifle, my .257 WBY is on a Pierce titanium action that just does NOT cycle smoothly, especially in the rain when I always seem to get a shot at sheep...it almost cost me a nice Stone ram a couple years ago and had me sworn off titanium. However, it appears that Lone Peak Arms may have finally solved the sticky titanium riddle with their titanium actions. So their Razor Ti in short action, fully nitrided (20 oz. with bolt) is my choice. Proof "light" Sendero barrel at 24" w/no brake, Manners or McMillan carbon stock, Trigger Tech Diamond at 28 oz. with a Swarovski Z6i 5-30x50 or Z8i 2.5-16x50 scope (either w/ custom turret) in Talley or Hawkins rings. The amount of turret adjustment is somewhat limited on the Z6i but with this particular load it gets you 925 yds. on your turret. If that's not enough, get a different guide. I also prefer a Neopod mounted on a little 3 slot pic rail built into the fore-end...to keep clear of rocks that may not show in the scope (yes, that's happened to me too).
 
However, it appears that Lone Peak Arms may have finally solved the sticky titanium riddle with their titanium actions. So their Razor Ti in short action, fully nitrided (20 oz. with bolt) is my choice.
I have never heard that titanium could be nitrided.
 
Yes, it's a $100 option from Lone Peak. I just ordered one two weeks ago. It's probably not necessary on the body of the action because their machining and finish work make it pretty smooth from the outset. But, after the Pierce experience, I'm not taking any chances. The bolt is nitrided as std.
 
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MY MOUNTAIN RIFLE:


Just picked up my 6.5 Creedmoor Browning X-Bolt Pro (CF stock) today.
At 6 lbs. 1 oz. it is definitely a mountain rifle. Lots of nice custom-like features like extensive fluting (barrel, bolt and bolt handle).

Great trigger and handsome bronze Cerakote of barreled action and CF stock. With Hornady 140 gr. ELD-M ammo I consistently get 1/2" five shot groups at 100 yards. But I gotta let the skinny barrel cool between groups. I'm very happy with that performance. (But honestly my former 6.5 Ruger American Predator got the same size groups for 1/4 the price!)

I had been looking at the SAKO Carbonlite but the X-Bolt Pro had more features like factory barrel lapping, bronze Cerakote, etc. and for $900. less.

The scope is a SWFA 3 - 15 x 42 with mil/mil and side focus. Great glass but no locking turrets . For $700. it's a great deal.
But I'm saving for a MARCH 3 - 24 x 42 illuminated scope. The SWFA will go on my Browning A-Bolt .300 Win mag. to replace an old Burris Black Diamond "mil/MOA" scope.

Eric B.
 
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