Reloading- What pressure signs do you stop at?

Flat primers mean different things to different people.

I use a magnifying glass while working up loads, and I ALWAYS use NEW brass.

I found the progression in pressures on the premier in the following ways:

A. Round edges in the beginning
B. Round edges with some minor flattening, radius on the primer cup changes radius dia, just barely
C. Edge of the primer starts to get square
D. Edges of the primer are Square
E. Edges of the primer are square and have filled out the radius in the primer pocket, and you may see some imperfections of the bolt face on the flattened primer.
E. In the worst cases, the primers will back out from primer pocket expansion, then flatten against the bolt face, which may also produce gas leakage around the primer. Gas leakage will burn tiny pin holes in the bolt face in the worst cases but often will just leave a black smudge on the bolt face. I have seen cases where there was gas leakage but no visible sign of leakage, BUT you can smell the burnt powder, which is verified by decapping the case on the spot. A large straightened paper clip could push a primer out of the case.

I like to de-prime with a hand tool where I can catch loose primer pockets quickly, so that case with a loose primer pocket does not undergo case prep for the next firing. There are many kinds of cheap hand de-priming tools, and they are worth their weight in gold. Also, you can catch the higher pressures that are expanding the case heads to where primer pockets are loosening up, and make a decision to fire or not fire the loaded rounds with heavier powder charges. Note: some powders have one heck of a pressure spike on the top end of the pressure curve.

I had different kinds of NEW brass Rockwell tested some years ago of the same caliber. There was a 6% variance in the same brand of hardness and a 12% variance spread from all the different brands. So, what this means is that you may make a judgment on the softest Rockwell hardness of the lot or the Hardest. Once you realize this spread in Rockwell hardness does exist over a lot # of brass in your possession, you can make some better-informed decisions on what your maximum load may be.

Reloading at the rifle range has tremendous benefits as you can make changes on the spot to see the results.

Getting set up to reload at the rifle range is not difficult, it is more of a mindset.

Depending on your goals, you may want to start with very tough brass, to begin with where economics has no bearing.

Your learning curve is at a minimum 10x faster while reloading at the rifle range, and using a hand de-primer teaches volumes.
 
Flat primers mean different things to different people.

I use a magnifying glass while working up loads, and I ALWAYS use NEW brass.

I found the progression in pressures on the premier in the following ways:

A. Round edges in the beginning
B. Round edges with some minor flattening, radius on the primer cup changes radius dia, just barely
C. Edge of the primer starts to get square
D. Edges of the primer are Square
E. Edges of the primer are square and have filled out the radius in the primer pocket, and you may see some imperfections of the bolt face on the flattened primer.
E. In the worst cases, the primers will back out from primer pocket expansion, then flatten against the bolt face, which may also produce gas leakage around the primer. Gas leakage will burn tiny pin holes in the bolt face in the worst cases but often will just leave a black smudge on the bolt face. I have seen cases where there was gas leakage but no visible sign of leakage, BUT you can smell the burnt powder, which is verified by decapping the case on the spot. A large straightened paper clip could push a primer out of the case.

I like to de-prime with a hand tool where I can catch loose primer pockets quickly, so that case with a loose primer pocket does not undergo case prep for the next firing. There are many kinds of cheap hand de-priming tools, and they are worth their weight in gold. Also, you can catch the higher pressures that are expanding the case heads to where primer pockets are loosening up, and make a decision to fire or not fire the loaded rounds with heavier powder charges. Note: some powders have one heck of a pressure spike on the top end of the pressure curve.

I had different kinds of NEW brass Rockwell tested some years ago of the same caliber. There was a 6% variance in the same brand of hardness and a 12% variance spread from all the different brands. So, what this means is that you may make a judgment on the softest Rockwell hardness of the lot or the Hardest. Once you realize this spread in Rockwell hardness does exist over a lot # of brass in your possession, you can make some better-informed decisions on what your maximum load may be.

Reloading at the rifle range has tremendous benefits as you can make changes on the spot to see the results.

Getting set up to reload at the rifle range is not difficult, it is more of a mindset.

Depending on your goals, you may want to start with very tough brass, to begin with where economics has no bearing.

Your learning curve is at a minimum 10x faster while reloading at the rifle range, and using a hand de-primer teaches volumes.
I'm literally considering buying a 4x4 van and paint it like the A-Team van and building a reloading bench in it. Lol
 
A camper shell on a pickup works in spades.

Benchrest shooters have been loading at the rifle range for 35 years that I know of.
In the late 60s, when when I started reloading at the rifle range, I prepped all my brass at home. I weighed powder charges in various charges, placing them in the Coin Dime holders. I could vary powder charge, change primer, and adjust seating depth as needed...all it took with nothing fancy. I had an RCBS press to seat bullets with, mounted on a 3' piece of 2x6, and c-clamped the 2x6 to the concrete bench top. I was 15 at the time and just had achieved my permit to drive. I had some really great WWII vets mentor me along.

I varied my powder charges.5g, and had 15 dime holders for each powder charge, so I could find the most accurate powder charge, then verify as many times as I thought necessary. I had two shoe boxes of dime holders which cost me 10Cents each back then.

The Dime holder/home case prep approach to loading at the rifle range would be just as viable today as it was in 1969.
 
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Blanket statements are often wrong. Some cartridges find the best accuracy at the highest velocity.
The age old 270 accuracy/hunting load is a good example of this. 55-55.5 of IMR 4350 with a 130 is getting up there toward max but is a classic load. If your 270 doesn't like this one you generally have a gun problem.
I have an old 60s dated Lyman manual that lists this as a factory duplicate, accuracy load.
 
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on my bighorn I look for pressure signs on the back of the cartridge case as the cutout for the ejector in the bolt shows pressure before anything else. My tikkas typically I just look for flattened primers and heavy bolt lift. My Christensen I just run factory ammo and it's way over pressured all ready so… 😂 jk.
 
on my bighorn I look for pressure signs on the back of the cartridge case as the cutout for the ejector in the bolt shows pressure before anything else. My tikkas typically I just look for flattened primers and heavy bolt lift. My Christensen I just run factory ammo and it's way over pressured all ready so… 😂 jk.
Your last sentence may be more true than you realize. I live close to the SC coast and we see alot of 95 degree plus high humidity days. I've seen many different factory loads lock a bolt up. Superformance factory loads do it quite a bit. I've seen some Winchester loads in 270 short mag do it quite often. Two or three times a deer season folks will call with a case stuck in the barrel. I'll Remove it, try another from the hunters box, sticks again. Change ammo, no more issues.
 
Your last sentence may be more true than you realize. I live close to the SC coast and we see alot of 95 degree plus high humidity days. I've seen many different factory loads lock a bolt up. Superformance factory loads do it quite a bit. I've seen some Winchester loads in 270 short mag do it quite often. Two or three times a deer season folks will call with a case stuck in the barrel. I'll Remove it, try another from the hunters box, sticks again. Change ammo, no more issues.

I'll make this statement once again, I never test loads at under 90 …..for potential pressures issues. These loads can be zero tested at various lower temperatures to determine how lower temperatures will affect them. Loading to anywhere near maximum on a cool or cold day may result in a a damaged case/brass or firearm or perhaps much worse on a hot day!

While I may push my loads a bit farther than some would feel comfortable……I want my loads to be safe under the hottest conditions that I'm ever likely to encounter! memtb
 
I learn that lesson a long time ago. I was working my powder loads up in my 308 NM rifle This was in S. Cal. Temps were somewhere around low 50's. I was running 3400fps with 165 gr Nosl BalTip. IMR 4350 powder. Great grouping and hot but only primers flatten. The primers were Fed-210's. I had somewhere around 50+ firing with that load. So I new it was ok. :eek: Move on to shooting other loads in different rifles. Came back to the 308NM in late June or early July. Temps move up to 95 to 100+. Set and put a round down the tube. Had to get something to open the bolt. Primer had been blown out of the case. I wasn't aware of temp sensitive powders. This was also my first run at increasing my powder loads above the reloading manual max load which I was. I hadn't done much reading about temp sensitive powder. I did some reading and talking to others about what had happen. I changed to H4350 powder. I lost about 100fps, but grouping was still very good or the same. Gave away about 16lb of IMR 4350, and IMR4831 (double based powder). I never used it again. The H powders has my go to powders now. If unknown the H powders are single based powders. I have just of late gotten some other single base powders to try. I like to see what powders are going to make the day for me. I use different primers in my load make up to see how the grouping goes and velocity.
 
Most of my hunting is in May, June, and July so I know I'm going to be shooting on some 100 degree days. So I set my loads up accordingly and use stick powders that are alledgedly less sensitive. Imr 4064, AR Comp, Varget, H 4895, H4831sc. Plus I use medium loads. I don't push things And have no issues with my hand loads.
Our actual deer season comes in in August. It's not uncommon to see 105 and very high humidity. Also not uncommon to see 95 when our rut starts in October. That is where some of the guys get in trouble with factory loads. Being a gunsmith I tend to get calls with "I shot a buck and I can't open my bolt Or the case is stuck in the barrel fairly regularly" Generally a lot number swap or a brand change fixes the issue. But there are some factory lines that seem to do this more commonly.
 
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Your last sentence may be more true than you realize. I live close to the SC coast and we see alot of 95 degree plus high humidity days. I've seen many different factory loads lock a bolt up. Superformance factory loads do it quite a bit. I've seen some Winchester loads in 270 short mag do it quite often. Two or three times a deer season folks will call with a case stuck in the barrel. I'll Remove it, try another from the hunters box, sticks again. Change ammo, no more issues.
Very well could be true but I've never actually fired a factory load out of either of my Christensens haha
 
I recently helped a frie
Very well could be true but I've never actually fired a factory load out of either of my Christensens haha
i recently helped a friend break in his Christenson 7 mag. Mostly with the cleaning because I can't shoot a gun with a brake without getting concussion symptoms. Even with plugs and muffs. Very nice, accurate rifle. If I didn't prefer to build my own they would be on my short list for sure.
 
They're very nice f
I recently helped a frie

i recently helped a friend break in his Christenson 7 mag. Mostly with the cleaning because I can't shoot a gun with a brake without getting concussion symptoms. Even with plugs and muffs. Very nice, accurate rifle. If I didn't prefer to build my own they would be on my short list for sure
They're very nice factory rifles and for the price point they're hard to beat. Fit and finish is very good.
 
I'll make this statement once again, I never test loads at under 90 …..for potential pressures issues. These loads can be zero tested at various lower temperatures to determine how lower temperatures will affect them. Loading to anywhere near maximum on a cool or cold day may result in a a damaged case/brass or firearm or perhaps much worse on a hot day!

While I may push my loads a bit farther than some would feel comfortable……I want my loads to be safe under the hottest conditions that I'm ever likely to encounter! memtb
Some powder change almost 1fps to 1 degree. That can effect the POE. If under 500 yds not so bad, but beyound that it can be a total miss.
 
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