Lets settle this once and for all FFP or SFP

[startrek1761d]

For me a ffp scope in low light pretty much defeats the purpose of a variable scope on the lower magnifications. I don't always have more than a few seconds to size up a deer and get on it. I don't want to waste time worrying with power ring or illumination. Why limit yourself? If you have plenty of time to fool around with your scope i can see a place for ffp.

 

[The Oregonian]

For me a ffp scope in low light pretty much defeats the purpose of a variable scope on the lower magnifications. I don't always have more than a few seconds to size up a deer and get on it. I don't want to waste time worrying with power ring or illumination. Why limit yourself? If you have plenty of time to fool around with your scope i can see a place for ffp.

Many illuminated scopes come with illumination management that can solve the turn on and turn off problem. Mine will auto turn on and off based on movement, and after two hours of idle time will shut off for good.

 

[Fetchma]

In general for hunting I prefer 2nd focal place. I want the reticle to look consistent if I jump something and snap shoot. in some first focal plane scopes the reticle can get hard to see at low power. For competition shooting with many targets at different ranges under time you need first focal plane and a reticle like the Tremor 3 or mil-xt. If you get to take a lot of time for your shot it doesn't really matter what you have. Thus endith the sermon.

 

[BrentM]

I have both ffp sfp as well as mil and moa. The tacticool side of me likes ffp and mil so I can play sniper on a solo mission trekking the mountains. The reality is I use the ffp mil for prs where you engage multiple known distance targets under fast pace and generally on 15-18 power max. You dial a certain amount of elevation and hold the rest for each stage. For hunting long range I am almost always able and prefer to dial high power and hold wind but dial elevation. For closer shots I find sfp reticle to be preferred but even on closer shots I still tend to dial up a bit so the super small reticle issue isn't a big issue. Where I draw the line generally with people is when they argue about ffp ranging. It's not accurate enough to be reliable on killing animals. Using generic animal measurements is risky and for me, it's irresponsible to take that risk. If my lrf quits, I hunt closer (pbr). I've been there using sig 2400's. 3 of them quit while on hunting trips.

End of sorry for me…. It doesn't really matter and both work just fine. It's kind of a pointless agreement overall.

 

[Philward]

I have only SFP scopes. I can't see reticle at low power on FFP, but my thought is low power for target acquisition and then zoom in to shoot, reticle is visible. SFP and holdover reticles are difficult because they are set for one magnification as others mentioned. A coworker said he always carries his rifle at max mag when hunting, so I asked why carry a 3-9x scope, just get a fixed power. I have a Sig bdx scope and the aiming dots move together or spread apart with scope magnification but the crosswires are SFP.

I prefer SFP because that's really all I've used.

 

[AZn8v]

I've only had SFP. That is about to change when the big brown truck delivers a ZCO and Kahles on Monday. I sure hope I like FFP

 

[raedmonson]

I have both and they both have a certain purpose. For me, when hunting deer in TN where I live, it's SFP. It's mostly woods with shots less than 150 yds.
I went out west recently and put a FFP NF SHV on my 300 Rum. I limited my shots to 450 or less. I ended up taking an elk at 310 yds. It was my first FFP moa and I must say, I really liked it. Easy to dial and I had been practicing out to 600 yds so I had a lot of confidence in dialing my shot. For long range, FFP works best for me.

 

[7.62 Gunner]

For lower magnification like a 4-16 or less SFP makes the most sense, if you're shooting long its easy to go max zoom at moderate ranges around 400-800 yards without having a tiny FOV.

Scopes with higher magnification over 16-18x are terrible in SFP if used to their actual potential.
Most hunters are way over powered with 25- 30x optics when they only take shots inside 500-900 yards 99% of the time.

If using your reticle as intended at max power you end up with a limited FOV, mirage issues, or distortion from low light.

I think the real conversation here should be matching your magnification range to your actual shooting scenario.
If you're hunting timber to 400 yards get a SFP 2-10×
If you hunt timber to 800 yards go 4-16 SFP or FFP.

If you truly hunt open country and use your reticle for fast engagements at all ranges go with an optic that has 20 plus upper magnification in FFP.

 

[redchinviking]

For lower magnification like a 4-16 or less SFP makes the most sense, if you're shooting long its easy to go max zoom at moderate ranges around 400-800 yards without having a tiny FOV.

Scopes with higher magnification over 16-18x are terrible in SFP if used to their actual potential.
Most hunters are way over powered with 25- 30x optics when they only take shots inside 500-900 yards 99% of the time.

If using your reticle as intended at max power you end up with a limited FOV, mirage issues, or distortion from low light.

I think the real conversation here should be matching your magnification range to your actual shooting scenario.
If you're hunting timber to 400 yards get a SFP 2-10×
If you hunt timber to 800 yards go 4-16 SFP or FFP.

If you truly hunt open country and use your reticle for fast engagements at all ranges go with an optic that has 20 plus upper magnification in FFP.

My thoughts exactly.

 

[JustSamson]

FFP and a screenshot of my drop chart saved as my wallpaper made killing my bull at 433 yards a quick hold over.

Very interesting, can you elaborated on and or share this wallpaper technique. Looks super helpful

 

[Mountain Sloth]

Very interesting, can you elaborated on and or share this wallpaper technique. Looks super helpful

I went into the 4DOF app, opened up the drop chart feature and took a screen shot of the 100-600 yard section and set it as the lock screen wallpaper on my iphone. After that it was a quick double tap of the screen and I had drops out to 550, cropping the image is a little tricky(at least it was for me at the cabin the night before). I've done this a couple of times as you can change you drops to fit the day/area/rifle you are hunting. I figured it would save me a minute and a half at best to get the app opened up, select the correct rifle and still get on target.

 

[Hugnot]

Bad light combined with reticle light failure makes FFP scopes at low power useless.

I could do almost all my shooting with a fixed 16X50, 30 mm tube scope having side focus down to 20 yards. High quality glass and 1/4 MOA dot or .1 Mil Rad dot reticle with appropriate hash marks & fat 1 moa or 1 mil rad extensions at all ends.

Adjustments to move erector tube would be direct without spring assist.

20 MOA slanted base.

Possibly a reflex type sight for real close range attached to scope or mounting system.

 

[paul scrobohaci]

Quigley Ford makes a DFP (dual focal plane, FFP + SFP) by (optically) superimposing a ballistic FFP reticle and a regular (crosshair) SFP reticle.
The SFP reticle is (obviously) invariable in size so you can see it clearly at minimum magnification and low lighting.
The FFP works for any distance/magnification as long as you can see it ...
The custom make the FFP reticle for your bullet's weight, BC, MV.
Schott HT glass (same as Schmidt & Bender).

Catch is cost: ~$3,000

However, you can pick one up for $1,325 at any of the shows they go to. Got mine up at the Sacramento (Komifornia) Sportsman's show,
NRA picks up the other half+ of the tab - more than offsets my lifetime membership cost.

I have no affiliation with QF.


Comments anybody ?