Sizing brass is a maintenance thing. The reason you full length size every time is to make the cases last as long as possible. The base of the case expands. Most of the time the dies do not not size the base enough. If you neck size you allow the base to expand every firing and a lot of times you cant bring it back down even with a small base die. Full length sizing with a correctly sized die pushing the shoulder back minimally will produce the best accuracy and longest life. Competitors have been doing this for many years. Be careful with having a little resistance on your bolt close, thats a great way to gall the back of the lugs.
This is not to start an hot debate, But I would still full size all of my brass if this was true. I competed in high power matches for 15 years
And had to full length my rapid fire loads to expedite loading. I used a bolt action and had to load 5 rounds at a time. we had 60 seconds including getting into position to fire from a standing position which used up at Least 10 of those 60 seconds for all 10 rounds.
I also fired precision ammo at the other distances where time was not an issue. These loads were my most accurate in the same rifle and won me many 600 and 1000 yard matches with a 308. I also still hold the rapid fire range record at my gun range With a perfect score of 200 x18 Xs. This is not meant to brag but just to help explain why I full size my rapid fire rounds and neck size "Only" my precision long range accuracy ammo For the same matches with the same rifle.
This is the/my results and reason I do case sizing this way.
1st= the full sized brass for rapid fire only lasted 3 to 4 rounds before
being discarded. The slow fire ammo was loaded at the same velocity using the same bullet with neck sizing only lasted 8 to 10 rounds without and case separations and case thinning was the reason for discarding the brass.
My accuracy loads that were neck sized only would consistently shoot in the .300s with iron sites. The full length loads would consistently shoot 1/2 MOA .(Good , but not as good as the neck sized ammo). both loads were MAX SAMME pressure loads for the 308 at 1000 yards and needed to be consistent at all distances for site adjustments in all conditions.
Brass is one of the materials that work harden is dimensional changes are a frequent occurrence. and the more dimensional changes, the faster the work hardening. So less is more in my opinion.
I also watched the Video and that guy is full of it and all he knows is what he has been told. One piece of advice to all reading this, If you believe everything you see or hear on the web, you are in for a rough ride. When I was competing, the top shooters would say one thing and do another because they wanted to keep their edge. I heard plenty of these comments to new shooters and in many cases the top shooters would later comment to there friends that would scold them for telling
A whopper "If he is stupid enough to believe me , its his problem" I'm not going to help my competitors out shoot me"
Bottom line, What works the best for you, is the way you should load.
I know what works best for me and no one will ever convince me that Full sizing will make your brass last longer and be more consistent. The chamber is the truest shape the brass/case can take, The less you alter this shape the more accurate the load and the longer the brass life. The bench rest Gunsmith that taught me Did not size his brass al all, He chambered the case where he could use the same case for a match with out sizing/altering the case shape. "Simple"
J E CUSTOM