Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Thank you !! Never heard of the windex but it makes sense....
Barrel break - in ??? What do you do ???
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fwiw, i recommend using Smooth Kote, which is a molybendum disulfate treatment - which entails cleaning the barrel down to bare metal (including using rubbing alcohol to remove any solvent residue), then applying liquid Smooth Kote, letting it dry per instructions, then applying powder Smooth Kote, via patch.
After that, cleaning entails using a nylon brush (I use medium and stiff), and dry patches.
The treatment needs to be periodically replaced, depending on how much you shoot and what you're shooting, etc.
I don't hold myself out as an expert (on anything), but I've had excellent results with all my rifles.
And it's also had an added bonus on my kids' rifles -- because cleaning is relatively quick and easy, they get right to it.
I first learned about Smooth Kote in John L. Plaster's "Ultimate Sniper" book. Smooth Kote is available at Brownells and MidwayUSA, if i recall correctly. I am not associated with Smooth Kote in any way - just a satisfied user.
Good luck with your new rig.
After that, cleaning entails using a nylon brush (I use medium and stiff), and dry patches.
The treatment needs to be periodically replaced, depending on how much you shoot and what you're shooting, etc.
I don't hold myself out as an expert (on anything), but I've had excellent results with all my rifles.
And it's also had an added bonus on my kids' rifles -- because cleaning is relatively quick and easy, they get right to it.
I first learned about Smooth Kote in John L. Plaster's "Ultimate Sniper" book. Smooth Kote is available at Brownells and MidwayUSA, if i recall correctly. I am not associated with Smooth Kote in any way - just a satisfied user.
Good luck with your new rig.
Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Thank you !! Definitely worth considering !!
fwiw, Smooth Kote is especially handy if you live in dusty and/or cold climes - because it molecularly bonds with the metal (barrel, bolt, etc.), there is no oil lubrication to trap dust/grit or get sticky in low temps.
As Plaster reports i his book, Smooth Kote reportedly proved especially popular in overseas deployments with such conditions (e.g,, Afghanistan - and a boundless thank you to all who have, do and will serve our country), because it significantly reduced rifle maintenance and improved operability. Good luck.
As Plaster reports i his book, Smooth Kote reportedly proved especially popular in overseas deployments with such conditions (e.g,, Afghanistan - and a boundless thank you to all who have, do and will serve our country), because it significantly reduced rifle maintenance and improved operability. Good luck.
Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Thank you again !!
tnek13
Well-Known Member
Custom barrels are usually hand lapped and require very little break in, of course, it never hurts. Savage barrels are not hand-lapped, I would suggest you shoot - clean and when it is easy to clean move on to 2 or 3 round strings. The last Savage barrel I had shot well, but not as well as the Shilen that the rifle now wears.
Lapuatom
Well-Known Member
Just check it when you clean it next time
Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Thank you !!
Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Thank you.. The twist rate is indeed 1:8 ... That model on the savage website defaults to the 308 caliber and I was inadvertently looking at the 308 specs .. I admitted my mistake as soon as I figured out I had made it... Sorry for any confusion I may have caused! I really need to wear my glasses before I try and read stuff lie that ...
I've only gone through the barrel break in process with 4 rifles. Two are custom barrels (1 Lilja .243ai and the other is Brux .280ai) and the other 2 are factory barrels (Rem. .25-06 and an AR15 .223). I don't know whose method this is, but this is my procedure.
1) start with clean barrel
2) shoot one round (cup & core bullet... avoid mono or soft copper bullets until after barrel break in is complete).
3) two or three wet patchs (shooters choice or equivalent) to remove/loosen carbon.
4) run wet bronze brush through bore (using bore guide) from action end around 10 strokes.
5) patch out dry.
6) run wet patch of copper remover and let sit for 10 minutes.
7) if 1st dry patch comes out blue repeat #6 until it doesn't.
8) shoot another round and repeat #3-7 until I get ten rounds down the barrel
9) shoot 2 or 3 shots and repeat the process.
10) after 20-30 rounds I'll start shooting 5 rounds and clean.
11) I let the barrel tell me when to start increasing my round count before cleaning.
I don't do volume shooting. I might shoot up to 20-30 rounds at the range. When I go home and clean I follow process 3 - 6. I hardly ever get any copper fouling anymore and I'm done cleaning my rifle in 5-15 minutes depending on if I use the copper solvent.
I chose to try the tubbs final finish lapping bullets on my 24" AR barrel. It cleans up very fast now and the gun shoots MOA and often better. This is my only experience with tubbs and I am satisfied with the results. I think it sped up the barrel break in process on this gun.
My factory Win. M70 purchased when I was young and didn't know anything about cleaning was never properly broken in just shot and oiled and put away. It shoots quite well but fouls quickly shooting soft Barnes bullets and accuracy seems to drop off slightly after about 10 rounds and then I'll take it home to clean. This gun fouls so bad it will take 45 minutes or longer to get the copper out.
My semi custom Rem. .280ai w/Brux barrel on the other hand, I can shoot 20 - 30 rounds (soft Barnes bullets) take it home and clean it and have zero copper fouling. This gun I can clean in 5-15 minutes as mentioned before.
1) start with clean barrel
2) shoot one round (cup & core bullet... avoid mono or soft copper bullets until after barrel break in is complete).
3) two or three wet patchs (shooters choice or equivalent) to remove/loosen carbon.
4) run wet bronze brush through bore (using bore guide) from action end around 10 strokes.
5) patch out dry.
6) run wet patch of copper remover and let sit for 10 minutes.
7) if 1st dry patch comes out blue repeat #6 until it doesn't.
8) shoot another round and repeat #3-7 until I get ten rounds down the barrel
9) shoot 2 or 3 shots and repeat the process.
10) after 20-30 rounds I'll start shooting 5 rounds and clean.
11) I let the barrel tell me when to start increasing my round count before cleaning.
I don't do volume shooting. I might shoot up to 20-30 rounds at the range. When I go home and clean I follow process 3 - 6. I hardly ever get any copper fouling anymore and I'm done cleaning my rifle in 5-15 minutes depending on if I use the copper solvent.
I chose to try the tubbs final finish lapping bullets on my 24" AR barrel. It cleans up very fast now and the gun shoots MOA and often better. This is my only experience with tubbs and I am satisfied with the results. I think it sped up the barrel break in process on this gun.
My factory Win. M70 purchased when I was young and didn't know anything about cleaning was never properly broken in just shot and oiled and put away. It shoots quite well but fouls quickly shooting soft Barnes bullets and accuracy seems to drop off slightly after about 10 rounds and then I'll take it home to clean. This gun fouls so bad it will take 45 minutes or longer to get the copper out.
My semi custom Rem. .280ai w/Brux barrel on the other hand, I can shoot 20 - 30 rounds (soft Barnes bullets) take it home and clean it and have zero copper fouling. This gun I can clean in 5-15 minutes as mentioned before.
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Manufacturers recommendations is where I begin.
Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Thank you for your complete response !! This is close to what I had expected. there have been some other suggestions worthy of consideration as well.. not going to need a method anytime soon unless my picatinny rail is delivered from Midway ... ( Was scheduled for delivery yesterday ( 12-05-20 ) but havent seen it )...
Yesiamapirate
Well-Known Member
Interesting !!!
