Barrel break - in ??? What do you do ???

Lots of different methods and opinions.
What I do know is the method I used my barrels clean FAST and have NO copper fouling.
I am working on starting another semi custom built and have a NEW barrel sitting in the safe. I might consider trying a completely different break in procedure just to see if I've been wasting my time.
 
Lots of different methods and opinions.
What I do know is the method I used my barrels clean FAST and have NO copper fouling.
I am working on starting another semi custom built and have a NEW barrel sitting in the safe. I might consider trying a completely different break in procedure just to see if I've been wasting my time.
Let me know how that works out
 
Even the 10x1 and 10x2 shot procedure takes up a lot of time. In winter it should be quite a bit faster to get the barrel cool. Work on 4 to 5 hours.
That is definitely the major negative to any barrel break in in my opinion... Although , as has been quoted on this thread , Kreiger said that cleaning a barrel is not a benign process...
 
That is definitely the major negative to any barrel break in in my opinion... Although , as has been quoted on this thread , Kreiger said that cleaning a barrel is not a benign process...
OK, if you do not believe in the barrel break-in process, then shoot away. If you do, pick one of the recommendations and move on. It really is that simple, don't complicate it unnecessarily. You have been provided excellent advice, what you do with them is entirely up to you. You need to be able to synthesize the information being presented to you.
 
OK, if you do not believe in the barrel break-in process, then shoot away. If you do, pick one of the recommendations and move on. It really is that simple, don't complicate it unnecessarily. You have been provided excellent advice, what you do with them is entirely up to you. You need to be able to synthesize the information being presented to you.
I do plan on employing some method ... but having posed the question, It certainly is incumbent on me to remain somewhat neutral up here so to not encourage or discourage anyone expressing their view ... I have attempted to respond to each and every reply out of respect and appreciation to the respondent. It was not my intention to complicate this subject. ( Sounds like it was complicated way before me ) I have learned a lot up here about this subject and was not aware that the continuing discussion on a repetitive topic was a burden or impeded any discussion of other topics... Please excuse me for trying to learn........
 
I do plan on employing some method ... but having posed the question, It certainly is incumbent on me to remain somewhat neutral up here so to not encourage or discourage anyone expressing their view ... I have attempted to respond to each and every reply out of respect and appreciation to the respondent. It was not my intention to complicate this subject. ( Sounds like it was complicated way before me ) I have learned a lot up here about this subject and was not aware that the continuing discussion on a repetitive topic was a burden or impeded any discussion of other topics... Please excuse me for trying to learn........
Here's more information to help accelerate your learning process ...





 
Thank you for your contribution to my education. You have supplied some of the best information on this subject, without a doubt. But I will still reply to each and everyone that replies to this thread ... its just good manners if nothing else... Once again , thank you for your contribution to this thread as well as my prior thread about which mount for my new scope....
 
I've been shooting for about 60 years now and have found the easiest way to polish a bore, after all, that's basically what a break-in does, is the old bench rest shooters trick of Kroil and JB's bore paste. It can be found online just about anywhere. Just do a web search, it'll be there. Seems to work great for me and you don't have to burn up a bunch of expensive ammo and time. Hope this helps.
Isn't that what hand lapping does? For a mass produced factory barrel maybe just try fire lapping or just shoot it. For me I just swab the bore with a few damp patches with rubbing alcohol. Also use a powder that has a copper fouling reducer added to it. I'll be damned if I'll run a brush through my bores a million times.
 
Isn't that what hand lapping does? For a mass produced factory barrel maybe just try fire lapping or just shoot it. For me I just swab the bore with a few damp patches with rubbing alcohol. Also use a powder that has a copper fouling reducer added to it. I'll be damned if I'll run a brush through my bores a million times.
Thank you for weighing in... I am certainly not qualified to opine. Most of you guys have a ton more experience than I . But I also have concerns about a brush in the barrel. But I am willing to do what it takes to do this thing right...
 
Thank you for weighing in... I am certainly not qualified to opine. Most of you guys have a ton more experience than I . But I also have concerns about a brush in the barrel. But I am willing to do what it takes to do this thing right...

I used to use brushes until a friend and mentor introduced me to a product called Accelerator which can be used in conjunction something called Wipeout/Patchout and I've never used a brush in my bores since. They can be mixed in the barrel, but not otherwise. For 25/26 caliber I use a 1 1/8'" "loose" patch and push that thru with Accelerator followed by another loose patch with the Wipeout. Give them about 5 minutes to work and push through a couple"tight" 1 3/4" patches with some rubbing alcohol on them. Repeat a couple more times. At first you will see black until the powder fouling is gone the if there is any copper it will show. My Hart barrels show hardly any copper fouling. I have found that before doing anything else I usually push a few tight patches through with just rubbing alcohol on them to get out most of the powder fouling. Also for whatever reason [thread handedness and twist not working together] my jagcomes loose. If this happens to you, most will say to tighten the jag back up before pulling your rod back out so the gap doesn't catch the muzzle edge and ruin your barrel crown.

Don't know if it matters, but I always use Accelerator first followed by Patchout. The Patchout is the copper remover.
I understand that it used to be common practice to run patches of Ronsonol through your barrel prior to cleaning.

7XU6PdU.jpg
 
Thank you for weighing in... I am certainly not qualified to opine. Most of you guys have a ton more experience than I . But I also have concerns about a brush in the barrel. But I am willing to do what it takes to do this thing right...

Fire lapping is taking cast lead bullets and coating them with a fine abrasive loading and shooting them. Probably easier to do these days if you have a borescope. It was talked about maybe 25+ years ago by a gent named Merrill Martin.
 
Thank you for weighing in... I am certainly not qualified to opine. Most of you guys have a ton more experience than I . But I also have concerns about a brush in the barrel. But I am willing to do what it takes to do this thing right...

I used to use brushes until a friend and mentor introduced me to a product called Accelerator which can be used in conjunction something called Wipeout/Patchout and I've never used a brush in my bores since. They can be mixed in the barrel, but not otherwise. For 25/26 caliber I use a 1 1/8'" "loose" patch and push that thru with Accelerator followed by another loose patch with the Wipeout. Give them about 5 minutes to work and push through a couple"tight" 1 3/4" patches with some rubbing alcohol on them. Repeat a couple more times. At first you will see black until the powder fouling is gone the if there is any copper it will show. My Hart barrels show hardly any copper fouling. I have found that before doing anything else I usually push a few tight patches through with just rubbing alcohol on them to get out most of the powder fouling. Also for whatever reason [thread handedness and twist not working together] my jagcomes loose. If this happens to you, most will say to tighten the jag back up before pulling your rod back out so the gap doesn't catch the muzzle edge and ruin your barrel crown.

Don't know if it matters, but I always use Accelerator first followed by Patchout. The Patchout is the copper remover.
I understand that it used to be common practice to run patches of Ronsonol through your barrel prior to cleaning.

7XU6PdU.jpg
Thank you !
 
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