What is the total cost of equipment to start neck turning?

Looking at the pictures. It appears that the cutting of the necks is short of the shoulder. Not for sure, but that what it appears to me. The neck cuts should stop at the transition from the neck to the shoulder angle. (don't cut into transition either, and not short of the transition either) That's why I first trim my cases all to the same length. Setting the stop, all the necks are cut for thickness is consistent. My reloading manual are all put up except for and old Nosler Manual printed in March 1976. So nothing on CM loading. I have never loaded for CM. How many time has that brass been fire presently? The annealing line appears to be very good were it stop at if that was you annealing the brass. If the brass has been fired before cutting the necks for thickness? Then you will need to size, and use a mandrel to push any uneven portions of the neck to the outside to cut the necks to thickness. Other the uneven spots can be on the inside of the neck. So no gain there. I have read several time here that people are using a mandrel to push uneven portions to the outside of the neck. I guess figuring that's okay. To me you have just moved it to the other of the neck. The neck still hits the chamber uneven kicking the bullet off to start with. I got lots of new equipment, but haven't really been able to put them into use just yet. I had been waiting on my new rifle to be completed to put the loads together doing all the trick things or steps that need to be done for long range.
I started into looking at having a 257/280AI built. The barrels are out 12-14 months. I am 74 presently. I am wondering do I move forwards or not. I would be 76+ at that time. I will have to think about that for a few days. The golden years!
 
Looking at the pictures. It appears that the cutting of the necks is short of the shoulder. Not for sure, but that what it appears to me. The neck cuts should stop at the transition from the neck to the shoulder angle. (don't cut into transition either, and not short of the transition either) That's why I first trim my cases all to the same length. Setting the stop, all the necks are cut for thickness is consistent. My reloading manual are all put up except for and old Nosler Manual printed in March 1976. So nothing on CM loading. I have never loaded for CM. How many time has that brass been fire presently? The annealing line appears to be very good were it stop at if that was you annealing the brass. If the brass has been fired before cutting the necks for thickness? Then you will need to size, and use a mandrel to push any uneven portions of the neck to the outside to cut the necks to thickness. Other the uneven spots can be on the inside of the neck. So no gain there. I have read several time here that people are using a mandrel to push uneven portions to the outside of the neck. I guess figuring that's okay. To me you have just moved it to the other of the neck. The neck still hits the chamber uneven kicking the bullet off to start with. I got lots of new equipment, but haven't really been able to put them into use just yet. I had been waiting on my new rifle to be completed to put the loads together doing all the trick things or steps that need to be done for long range.
I started into looking at having a 257/280AI built. The barrels are out 12-14 months. I am 74 presently. I am wondering do I move forwards or not. I would be 76+ at that time. I will have to think about that for a few days. The golden years!
Mike, these cases are virgin brass. I anneal with an AMP, but not until firing them. They have never been turned. I ordered a complete K&M neck turning kit, but it will not be here until the end of the week. I'm not to far behind you on age. Just go for it if you can with the new build. We all give out at different rates. You can order a custom twist Bartlein at any contour through GAP & cut your waiting time to 3-4 months. They will chamber for you or just sell you the barrel. Before building a 25/280 I would ask Alex what he thinks about a 25 PRC.
Thanks for your advice. It's much appreciated!
 
I will look at that on the barrel. That figures for the evenness on the color of the brass. Man that's a difference turn around time on the barrels. I have figured out that I am better off purchasing a reamer. That way I have it to rechamber the barrel as needed. I am reducing the chamber neck size for a .013" neck thickness. The AMP I think is the best out there. I have a Bench-Source Machine. I am setting it a little different. I have propane tanks in the 7.5 gallon size. I just got a double hose including regular a double for the torch heads. Not worried about running of of propane or loosing temp at the heads. That seem to be the problem with the torch set up or I think it mostly that. We'll see. I am not really up on PRC style cases and have stayed away from them.
No wonder I couldn't see where the stop of the cut was or at. Just be sure that all your case are to the same length before cutting the necks for thickness. You are set up with one stop so everything is the same. I started cutting necks over 20 years ago. It improved the groups. I used Forester back then, and now 21st Century. Now I see that another cutter on the market, that I wasn't aware of. Folassproducts.com. It's about $2,500.00 to start with.
 
I will look at that on the barrel. That figures for the evenness on the color of the brass. Man that's a difference turn around time on the barrels. I have figured out that I am better off purchasing a reamer. That way I have it to rechamber the barrel as needed. I am reducing the chamber neck size for a .013" neck thickness. The AMP I think is the best out there. I have a Bench-Source Machine. I am setting it a little different. I have propane tanks in the 7.5 gallon size. I just got a double hose including regular a double for the torch heads. Not worried about running of of propane or loosing temp at the heads. That seem to be the problem with the torch set up or I think it mostly that. We'll see. I am not really up on PRC style cases and have stayed away from them.
No wonder I couldn't see where the stop of the cut was or at. Just be sure that all your case are to the same length before cutting the necks for thickness. You are set up with one stop so everything is the same. I started cutting necks over 20 years ago. It improved the groups. I used Forester back then, and now 21st Century. Now I see that another cutter on the market, that I wasn't aware of. Folassproducts.com. It's about $2,500.00 to start with.
That sounds like good solid advice. Thanks Mike. If I was a lot younger I would probably have the IDOD and no more than 2 or 3 rifles.
 
I'm looking forward to having uniform neck wall thickness, but not looking forward to all that neck turning!

Goes by fast. I turn with the K+M tool but with a drive tool and not their hand spinner, mainly just skim to clean up but have gone down to 0.0125" for one very tight chamber. I've switched to using a 12V motor instead of the electric screwdriver - it works the same but no battery that slows me down.

I don't have that opportunity....
Why not?
 
It was a little over $400 with shipping. I got all the accessories they recommend to make it easier.

If I hadn't just built 2 rifles & 2 more barrels (22 GT) in the oven I would have considered the 21st powered lathe also. These projects were planned to stretch out over more time & component availability surprised me.

I'm glad I did order a kit to turn this Peterson 25 CM brass. Amazon delivered a micrometer with an anvil type head today and it appears my neck walls are .0143 to .0149 in thickness. If there's zero wear on the reamer, not mine, that's only 3 thou neck clearance. When I had the heavy bolt lift I'm pretty sure I was guilty of not having a completely dry chamber/neck/throat. For my type of shooting I could use a little more clearance. See pic
 

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Goes by fast. I turn with the K+M tool but with a drive tool and not their hand spinner, mainly just skim to clean up but have gone down to 0.0125" for one very tight chamber. I've switched to using a 12V motor instead of the electric screwdriver - it works the same but no battery that slows me down.


Why not?
Thank you also for the links. I think K&M was a good choice for me. In addition to quality tools they stayed on the phone through the entire order making sure I got everything right. Important to someone who has never turned necks. My drill is probably to powerful. I'll pick up a screwdriver tomorrow.
 
For the last seven years or so I averaged 1000-2000 turned necks a year for Fclass. I know what works for my program, having tried about everything out there. This includes an IDOD and a powered lathe by 21st Century.

I think you will be happy with your neck turning purchase. Turning necks isn't that difficult, holding good tolerances is fairly easy. Like everything else a little common sense goes a long way. Keep us posted on your results and good luck!
 

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