What is the total cost of equipment to start neck turning?

[Sending156s]

AutoDOD... the CNC automated version of the IDOD.

AUTODOD

www.fclassproducts.com

You can send your brass to F-Class Products and pay them to turn them for you. That's a service they used to offer anyway, but you could contact them and check into it.

If you just have a few hundred, that will probably be money better spent than getting some inferior turning equipment yourself.

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I just came from their website. That's an amazing tool. Most of my cartridges I use a bushing in a sizing die, but for the 25 CM I bought the F-Class .282 FL sizing die that he makes. i'll touch base with him Monday. For what you get that is a very fair price he asks for it. Everything else I have is no turn necks. Thank you again!

 

[Varmint Hunter]

It looks like you currently have .004" of neck clearance. Most of my ammo is set up for .003" clearance. If all the numbers you provided are correct, you don't want to thin your necks any further.

 

[orkan]

I run .005 to .006 clearance on most of my rifles. Great place to be for a field rifle and it won't stop it from shooting small consistently.

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[Sending156s]

It looks like you currently have .004" of neck clearance. Most of my ammo is set up for .003" clearance. If all the numbers you provided are correct, you don't want to thin your necks any further.

Thank you for the input. I think I am either good or close to good if conditions are perfect. I think it's possible I didn't get it completely dry after 2nd cleaning. I've never had that happen and have a good cleaning station setup. What makes me think that is that I didn't have that hard of a bolt lift on the 1st or 2nd shots. I'll shoot a few more wearing correct PPE, safety glasses, etc. Bob referred to a small sample size. I'm also shooting at a low pressure, breaking in barrel, & want to have a safety margin if I'm shooting in the rain, snow, or other adverse conditions. As much as I don't want to neck turn, I think I will need to on these 2 barrels. The irony of it is that these are the 1st barrels I bought made of the new material Bartlein uses which is supposed to be harder.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

a bullet will slide in, but you can feel it touching. Im thinking that it's real close to being good and that I might not have got it completely dry on the last cleaning. Thanks. It also Peterson which has a little thicker neck.

Your fine. More neck clearance wont hurt but it wont help. When you get too tight you will see it in the groups and in your es. .003-.004 on a .25 is fine. But turning equipment is not too expensive and its nothing to be intimidated of. The basic tools that have been used for a long time will hold less than a .0001 of variation if you use them right. You dont need anything more than that. The idod wont do a better job, but it will do more volume.

 

[Sending156s]

Your fine. More neck clearance wont hurt but it wont help. When you get too tight you will see it in the groups and in your es. .003-.004 on a .25 is fine. But turning equipment is not too expensive and its nothing to be intimidated of. The basic tools that have been used for a long time will hold less than a .0001 of variation if you use them right. You dont need anything more than that. The idod wont do a better job, but it will do more volume.

Thanks, I appreciate it much. I've been looking at K&M & 21st Century videos. The IDOD looks really special, but is out of my price range especially when turning for just one cartridge.

I was just breaking in these barrels using my method. i shot, cleaned, shot, cleaned. No signs of any pressure. Then I shot 3. There was heavy bolt lift, more so on one than the other. Both barrels same reamer & same brass. If I didn't dry the throat area completely could that have caused the heavy bolt lift? There was only 41.0 gr of H4350. Thanks for letting me know what your thought are…….appreciate it!

I'm going to buy a cheaper, but proven tool & take 1/2 to 1 thou off just to be safe as I'll be bringing pressure up looking for my load.

Thanks and wishing you good night!

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Wet chambers will give heavy bolt lift. I dry them out with a shotgun patch over a .410 mop. I will even use brake clean on the patch to make sure no oil is in the chamber after cleaning.

 

[Beluebow]

The idod wont do a better job, but it will do more volume.

Fact^^

You don't need an IDOD....21st Century/PMA/K&M all make quality tools that will get the job done.

 

[RUFFIAN R - NY]

they are all nice toys and should do the job. Am old fashion and do the hand type been at it so long would not be able to switch over to machines. Now I only do the high spots.

 

[Jeffrey Van Zandt]

So far I've only looked at K&M and the 21st century. This will be for a 25 Creedmoor. The reason will be for a tight chamber. It's on the line where with if everything is just right you don't need to turn. I'm breaking in barrels, & may not have done a perfect job on drying the bore. There was heavy bolt lift. Load light at 41.0 grains H4350 for break in.
I'll be calling K$M & 21st century asap. These days not always easy to get through to businesses. While waiting I would appreciate your cost estimates for the various equipment, your opinion on ease of use, and the consistency of results. Thanks to all for reading and sharing advice/experiences.
Reamer print bore neck diameter = .290
Fired brass neck OD = .28885 - .289
Virgin brass loaded neck OD = .286
This is Peterson brass head stamped 25 CM.
New neck wall as measured = .0125 - .0135

All measurements with Mitutoyo tools, Peterson brass, & 135's. Barrels are the Bartleins with the harder steel. 1 SS & 1 CF. Both M24 w/ 8-7.4 RH twist.

try e-bay old hunters sell there stuff wives and chilalso sell off there stuff just search what you need

 

[Mike Matteson]

Id look at PMA tool and 21st century reloading for turners. Always get a carbide mandrel. Sinclair sells them.

Alex: Question, Will Sinclair mandrel fit in a cutter head of a 21st century set up. In using the 21st century neck turning system. I ran into is problem with 280AI new cases wouldn't be excepted over the mandrel. (new case never been fired) I had the smith turn it down the mandrel to allow the case neck to fit over it. I know I could get a mandrel and expand the neck to start with, before cutting the neck thickness. In looking at things all the time on which seem like the best way to go. But always learning new tricks, or pondering the problem as I ran head long into them. In thinking about it. It may be far better to use a mandrel to start with to expand the neck, and be sure unevenness it pushed to the outside of the necks from the get go. My thinking was that new cases being Peterson Brass that inside of the necks are straight to start with. I know that thinking sometime won't get me to far. At times I almost feel like a dog chasing his tail. Anybody else with any experience on this, please belly up to the bar and put your $0.02 in.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

I believe most of the better tools use the same shank size on the mandrel. So the Sinclair carbides should work in most of them. I find most of the time the turning mandrel fits a brand new case very well without expanding. I prefer a pretty snug fit which is why carbide is important to prevent galling. I also lube the mandrel for every case with a drop of fp10 oil. Set the tool on an ice pack between cases to keep it from warming up too much. If it gets hot it will cut .0001-.0002 fatter necks.

 

[Mike Matteson]

I believe most of the better tools use the same shank size on the mandrel. So the Sinclair carbides should work in most of them. I find most of the time the turning mandrel fits a brand new case very well without expanding. I prefer a pretty snug fit which is why carbide is important to prevent galling. I also lube the mandrel for every case with a drop of fp10 oil.

I agree on what you said, but it didn't work for what ever reason. I know that I order out more mandrels, but they are in Montana. I am in Mexico-North presently.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

If you need to expand the neck to fit most manufactures offer the expander mandrel and the turn mandrel. Usually the expander is .001-.002 bigger