Don't go below 11thou unless you have a smaller bushing to squeeze neck down enough to grab bullets. Did that with some 7rm and it barely grabbed the bullet or didn't in a couple cases. They were cheap cases though.
do you need to start over with load after neck turning?
- Thread starter Bigeclipse
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Mtndog357
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I have neck turning a try years ago on the advise of two reloading buddies. The improvement in my loads was shocking. Now I turn all my rifle brass, except turn & burn AR ammo. Never had to re-work any loads and never saw any signs of increased pressure. So no, you should not need to rework your loads.
Muledeerhuntingfreak
Well-Known Member
Hi guess whether newbie like me at reloading and doing stuff I have been doing this for a few years I don't understand what neck turning is somebody explain that to me thank you
Marc Gauthier
Well-Known Member
You must try. The tension of the neck influences the uniformity of the speed of the shell, then it is necessary to adjust the grouping with the depression of the shell. From close it does not change anything. Sorry for my English.
There may be a small difference in velocity after neck turning, depending if using bushing sizing die or button sizing die. If thinning the neck by .001 there will be less neck tension unless you compensate with smaller bushing. Different neck tension can cause different velocities. Before realizing the need to anneal brass, I would occassionally have one cartridge that would produce very high pressure. If necks reach the point of splitting, there obviously remains little or no elasticity , or no ability to expand. It seems maybe like straining at a gnat but swallowing a camel. Turning necks will possibly make a little difference in neck tension, but nothing compared to brass hardening. Thinking back, I realized that my best accuracy seemed to have been with new brass. With squeaking of the button when sizing, and the difficulty of pulling some bullets in cases that had been resized several times, and I realized the need for annealing and how quickly necks work harden, which tends to harm accuracy.
Warbird2006
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You get a different neck tension
M
A lot of chambers may be cut to produce a tight neck. So in usually factory ammo will not chamber without pinching neck creating very high pressures. So, with a tight neck chamber, brass necks need to be turned so they will fit in the tighter chamber neck. Maybe a little accuracy gain if any, but mainly for brass life. If brass neck only expands .001 when firing, it takes more firings to work harden.
I like 21st Century Shooting's products. They manufacture a host of arbors for expanding and a great neck turning lathe with accuracy down to .0001" May I add, as a rule I have found higher priced brass to clean up faster, requiring less turning that cheaper brass. One word of caution however. Neck clearance of the case neck to chamber wall diameter should be kept under .006" Too much difference between these measurements will cause excessive case neck expansion and premature case neck failure. So, it isn't not necessary to clean cut the entire circumference of your brass in certain cases to achieve a little more constancy in your neck tension. Annealing in many scenarios may prove to be of help. All this depends on the neck wall thickness variation of your brass.
Also, for case neck expansion, 21st Century makes mandrels of Stainless Steel, Titanium Nitride and Back Nitride. Caliber specific sets are also available, with mandrels in sets of 5 from +.001 to -.003" bullet diameter.
I am fine with the Black Nitride NBE26 .263" for my 6.5
21st Century Shooting are very nice to deal with as well as Brownells.
Also, for case neck expansion, 21st Century makes mandrels of Stainless Steel, Titanium Nitride and Back Nitride. Caliber specific sets are also available, with mandrels in sets of 5 from +.001 to -.003" bullet diameter.
I am fine with the Black Nitride NBE26 .263" for my 6.5
21st Century Shooting are very nice to deal with as well as Brownells.
freddiej
Well-Known Member
BigEclipse, if you neck turn the pressures will stay approximately the same, the loads will be more consistent, groups will shrink, if you uniform the brass more than the groups will shrink more. Ie: uniform the primer pockets, uniform and center the flash hole, and group the brass by 1 grain weight groups, and uniform the lengths. then your groups will shrink to the best the gun and ammo will allow. you will basically doing your best to be as acurate with your hunting loads as possible. after that you will be much more confident with longer shots. this is my advice for you. I know when I did all this with my hunting loads; my ear to ear smile could not be wiped off my face for months. I took my first elk at 600 yards and put the round within 1" of where I aimed on the high neck and dropped him in his tracks. after that I worked up an even more accurate load and was shooting a 150 -160 grain 0.277" slug over 800 yards and hitting a 5" target. It was totally worth the time and effort to make that rifle shoot that well.
Muledeerhuntingfreak
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the information
Blackhawk
Well-Known Member
Please read the following:
I own and use the Hornady Neck Turning Tool and I've found that after depriming the brass I tumble it in steel pin media,
Once the brass is clean and dried using a case dryer ( this neck turning procedure is for new or once fired brass shell casings only ) I will FL resize without the bushing inserted in my match grade die set.
Next and this is very important in order to have my cases fit over the Hornady neck turning mandrel I expand the case necks ID by .+001. This is accomplished using the Sinclair Gen 2 expander die with the correct Caliber Specific Sinclair mandrel. ( Sinclair makes these mandrels in + or -.001" increments )
Once you have expanded your case necks ID to a constant size you will find that your cases will easily fit over the Hornady tool's mandrel. Additionally, you will achieve a uniform neck turn,
Typically a -.0002" - a .0005" will true up your case necks OD.
Another note:
Please lubricate your brass before neck turning. I use a small container filled with Mobil 1 5-20 weight oil for neck turning, as brass is very gummy by nature and will gall if not lubricated. For this, I use a small acid brush.
You will have two different carbide turning tools one with a 20 degree and another with a 30-degree angle so you must decide beforehand which cutter you will need.
As this tool is used under the power of a drill and because of tolerance issues you must use the Hornady shell holder again caliber specific.
Other brands of shell holders will not work and most people don't have access to a lathe in order to modify them.
The beauty of the Hornady LNL Neck Turning Tool is that your hands will not get tired because you are using a cordless drill as they would when just using a handheld neck turning tool. You will be amazed at just how smooth and even your case necks will become after neck turning under power.
Next, I will wipe my brass clean the anneal them.
After annealing, I will FL resize my brass using my match grade die and this time I will insert my neck bushing.
This will allow a uniform neck tension which is crucial in establishing a constant bullet jump.
Finally, I will trim to the correct case length, chamfer the ID, and OD, then using my Redding body die and the correct Redding Competition Shell Holder Set bump my cases shoulder -.002" and seat primers, then fill using the correct powder in the correct increment and finally allow for the correct seating depth and jump factor, seat the bullet.
Once assembled I will check and adjust my bullets TIR as needed.
Factory ammunition has an accepted total bullet runout of .003". .I strive to maintain a + -.0005" TIR
In fact, I subscribe to the circle, within a circle within a circle theory.
I know that this is a lengthy dissertation but I hope that this will guide you.
OBTW This tool must be bolted down to be used correctly making certain to leave enough clearance to swing your drill-down for use.
Perhaps a lot of this information you already know but in the event that you do not, I've taken the liberty of reposting it.
Hope this will help as well as give you some food for thought.
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RiverShooter
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Sending156s
Well-Known Member
Sinclair with a Forster or Creedmoor Sports base if on a budget, 21st century if budget not tight, brand ? That turns inside & outside of necks if you have the budget I WISHED I had.
Do yourself a favor & stay away from Hornady equipment. They have the best sales team in our sport and an awesome engineering team, but they have most of thier equipment built by low bid China. Can get quality in China, but have to pay for it.
