do you need to start over with load after neck turning?

[BountyHunter]

do not make work for yourself. Unless your brass is showing a wide .003 variance I would not do it. If you want to, all you need to do is clean up the brass a little off the high spots for a stock chamber normally less than .001. If you have a stock chamber, then .012-.013 IMO is too thin, especially for hunting rifles. Erick Cortina is talking his match guns also, not hunting rifles.

After you turn them, load and fire them and then re-turn them to the same setting. You will find high spots have come out.

Now you know you are going to have to use bushing dies after turning also if you turn them a lot.

Jim Carstenson at JLC Precision can convert your dies to bushing. Last I knew it was $80 and couple weeks.

 

[ButterBean]

measurememt doesnt matter to me, i aim for the same for my whole lot what ever the measuremnt ends up being ..
start at .015 pick 10 cases and slowly drop the cutter until the surface all the way around gets turned . if you get lower than .012 you probably need different brass

Just taking some off of one side will help if you cant get it to clean up all the way around so don't sweat it

 

[25WSM]

Neck thickness is totally dependent on chamber neck diameter. There is no one perfect neck thickness in general. If you have .003 to .004 clearance it will be good. More don't really hurt accuracy but will work the necks more during sizing and need annealed more often. In the 6ppc necks at .008 thick are the norm. And these brass last for a dozen shots minimum. So anything under .012 and start over is just wrong.
If your brass already have .003 to .004 clearance then you only need to do a 75% clean up on the necks.
Don't skimp on the neck turning equipment. You won't be happy. Get a 21st century, KandM or Sinclair. Clean up cuts go real fast and are easy to get nice. Do make sure you cut into the shoulder slightly also as this helps with the donut forming in the junction. I neck turn almost all my brass to at least a clean up stage. And all my BR guns need turned brass. Biggest difference I ever seen was 300wsm winchester brass that I did a 75% cleanup on and reduced groups by more than half. These brass had sides that were more that .002 bigger on one side. Have fun with it.
Shep

 

[Triple BB]

Shawn Carlock stated that he quit turning necks 20 years ago. Bryan Litz has a video where he states if you're happy with yer groups, then leave it alone...

 

[25WSM]

No you most likely will not need new dies either. Standard dies size way too much to begin with. They will only work better with your cleaned up brass. Standard dies usually size your brass down .008 to .010 and then use the expander to get the neck back up to the proper size. Size a brass with the expander in it and then do one without the expander and measure the difference. You will see what I mean. Regular dies over work the necks in a big way. I think they make them too tight on propose so it won't matter if your necks are thick or thin it will size enough and then be expanded back. Bushing dies are definitely more friendly on your necks. Forster will home your neck to the proper size once you get your brass right. It's very inexpensive to have them do it and will extend the life of your brass and make straighter ammo.
Shep

 

[ButterBean]

Shawn Carlock stated that he quit turning necks 20 years ago. Bryan Litz has a video where he states if you're happy with yer groups, then leave it alone...

I have stopped as well with no problems what so ever but I started using better brass as well but it's something most folks need to figure out themselves, with factory brass I did see some gains

 

[QuietTexan]

What should I look at outside of that brand? Thanks!

I'm down to choosing between K&M or Sinclairs. I need to make more notes on the mandrel and cutter availabilities first. I think it's advantage K&M because they're half as much as the Sinclairs and have better cutter angle options.

 

[BountyHunter]

Go with K&M carbide cutter

 

[TheLongRanger83702]

im considering buying a Hornady neck turner and give neck turning a try. That being said, i don't want to have to re-do all my current loads, especially in my barrel burning rifles such as 28nosler. Is it recommended to re-work loads after neck turning strictly from a safety stand point? Thanks!

I think if you use specific neck bushings to achieve neck tension the answer is no.

 

[7MM Mike]

I have the Sinclair setup with carbide and am very happy. I only turn necks for my .250AI as I have a stockpile of Remington and Winchester brass. With the better brands of brass in my other calibers I have not seen a need to bother.

 

[Les in Wyoming]

measurememt doesnt matter to me, i aim for the same for my whole lot what ever the measuremnt ends up being ..
start at .015 pick 10 cases and slowly drop the cutter until the surface all the way around gets turned . if you get lower than .012 you probably need different brass

I tried neck turning. The jury is still out as to whether it works. Mine end up being .009 - .011. Typically about .010. This is with Winchester brass in a 300 WM. If that is too thin I had better not mess up any more of my brass. I need to shoot them a few more times to see if neck turning does indeed help my groups.

 

[blueprairiedog]

Go with K&M carbide cutter

K&M skim a little and mic before and after you seat the bullet. I went from a small group to a smaller group after I started turning necks. We checked alpa munition,ADG,Peterson's,hornady and all of them had a high spot around the neck but I would have never noticed the group if I wasn't shooting from a bench and making sure everything was as good as I could get it and if I won't such a good shot.did I say that out loud

 

[25WSM]

If you get the 40 degree cutter it will work on all you brass if you set the length of your cut right. Make sure you trim all your brass before turning because the cutter index's off the mouth to set depth. If you don't trim you will have various cutting lengths to the shoulder. Make sure you keep lube on the mandrel or it will start collecting brass on it and it can gall the inside of your necks. I just use imperial sizing wax on the mandrel but most any lube will work for this. If you see any brass sticking to the mandrel clean it off right away because it will build up. If your just doing a clean up one pass is normally enough. If you need to turn more than .001 do multiple cuts. It's really not hard or tedious and I find it enjoyable. If you get the K and M get the big blue handle that the cutter sits into. The k and m is a small unit and your hand will cramp up holding it. I use the k and m but to do it over I would get the 21st century in a heartbeat. It is hands down the best tool for turning.
Shep

 

[Huntz]

Neck turning is a waste of time unless you have a custom chamber that requires turning.