I built my own one of those using a piece of 1/4" 6061-T6 and a circular bubble level from McMaster and a 12" long section of pictinny rail from amazon. Three M6 hex heads, two in opposing corners and the opposite centered between the corners level the plate. After screwing it all together I used an electronic level to confirm both that the bubble level was correct and that the top of the rail was parallel to the top of the 6061 plate. Almost took longer to describe the build than to do it. I have the Wheeler levels, not too impressed with them. I bought the
Arisaka leveling tool and will get to try it soon.
I still owe the forum a pic of the tool that I used to use and need to make another one of. Picture a piece of clear plexiglas bent in a sharp 90°. It is the width of the bolt raceways and has a vertical line scribed in it. Remove the bolt and place the tool on the raceways. Look through the tool at the retical. Rotate the scope until the vertical reference in the retical is parallel to the scribed line. Tighten the scope.
If the bore is not directly under the vertical reference in the retical, that is to say if the bore centerline and the vertical post or reference in the retical are not in the same vertical plane then as the distance increases windage error creeps in. Not long ago someone here put it better than I'm managing right now. You can make the POA and the POI agree for one distance when they are not coplanar, but when the distance changes the POA laterally moves away from the POI. When they are coplanar then excluding any wind influence the ballistic arc of the projectile's path is also coplanar and you get no distance induced "windage" error.
If the NPA (Natural Point of Aim?) hold is skewing the rifle off vertical then the rifle needs an adjustable butt to get it vertical while in the NPA hold.