Leveling your scope quick and easy

For everyone with no flat spots or rails, I've been using tje plum-bob and flashlight method.
I have used this method as well.
 
Well then my next question would be, if by canting the rifle you can correct the scope alignment, then why is it necessary that the scope be perfect to begin with? lol
Realize this, your talking to a man in his very late 80s.
Who remembers very well when nobody even had scopes.
And when they became popular they were installed with just a screwdriver.
The user would just shoulder the rifle and see if it looked ok to at least him.
When long range came about for some of us in the 60s, it didnt change the way we installed scopes.
And we never realized that there were any problems.
And you know why?
Because there werent any.
About 10 or so years ago Bruce Baer installed a new Nightforce on one of my guns.
The only tool he used was a screwdriver, after he checked it, he asked me to look thru it.
Since im a lefty, i had him turn it slightly before he tightened it down.
Mind you, in PA. most long rangers shoot from a bench when hunting.
And we do level our bench side to side when setting it up.
At least some of us do, i certainly cant speak for all.
I'm in my mid 70's. I shot 1000yds at Bisley, in the mid '60's, with a #4 Enfield.
I did use a scope until 1979. I have used many different methods including eyeball. I now use levels.
I want the reticle to be as vertical as possible so that I can squeeze as much accuracy as possible.
Back in the day there weren't any problems because they didn't know there was a problem.
Well then my next question would be, if by canting the rifle you can correct the scope alignment, then why is it necessary that the scope be perfect to begin with? lol
Realize this, your talking to a man in his very late 80s.
Who remembers very well when nobody even had scopes.
And when they became popular they were installed with just a screwdriver.
The user would just shoulder the rifle and see if it looked ok to at least him.
When long range came about for some of us in the 60s, it didnt change the way we installed scopes.
And we never realized that there were any problems.
And you know why?
Because there werent any.
About 10 or so years ago Bruce Baer installed a new Nightforce on one of my guns.
The only tool he used was a screwdriver, after he checked it, he asked me to look thru it.
Since im a lefty, i had him turn it slightly before he tightened it down.
Mind you, in PA. most long rangers shoot from a bench when hunting.
And we do level our bench side to side when setting it up.
At least some of us do, i certainly cant speak for all.
 
The diagram below shows the perfect alignment of scope and rifle bore. If the imaginary line through the center of the scope and center of the bore is vertical, and the vertical cross-hair matches the vertical center to center line, the scope is aligned. The center to center line can be aligned vertically (plumb to the earth) by using a bubble level perpendicular to the center to center line. Then, the scope can be adjusted to match the center to center line by viewing a distant plumb line. To me, the most direct way of doing this is via the type of the device in the picture.


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I used one such tool for years while working behind the counter. I can not find one and my first effort to make one was a total fail. Picture a strip of Plexiglas bent across the width into an 'L'. Centered in the vertical section was a reference line. Pull the bolt, insert the tool, press down on the tool thru the ejection port with a finger, look thru it and the scope, twist the scope to align it's vertical crosshair with the tool's reference line. Worked like magic and didn't care if you were upside down and twisted sideways while doing it.
I modeled this tool since my attempt to make failed. Maybe it'll help others see how it worked. It looked like this:
i-R6jwqjP-M.jpg
 
Thought this article was informative

Reticle alignment

Especially this paragraph

For long range shooting (generally more than 500 yds), even reticle alignment errors of a few degrees can result in noticeable aiming errors. In this case the alignment tolerance is +/-1 degree. The aiming error at 750 yds is about 1 foot for a 4 degree reticle alignment error. Reticle alignment error can easily cause a missed shot at long range. This doesn't include wind estimation error, which makes the problem even worse. Our goal is to remove all the known aiming errors in long range shooting. With training and experience, you can minimize the wind estimation error.
Remember that one minute of the clock is equal to 6 degrees, so a +/-1 degree angle tolerance is smaller than we can achieve by "eyeballing" the reticle. A method of locating the reference line connecting the scope tube and rifle bore axes is needed. This requires that some type of alignment tool be used at the objective, rather than the ocular, because the objective is closer to the muzzle (where boresighting should be done). Finally, the rifle scope must be boresighted to the rifle bore.
 
There are tools that work off the lug raceways inside the action

This ^^^ is how my smith gets things set up. I tried using a lug race leveling tool and then compared it to other methods talked about in this thread. None of the methods agrees with the others, when all are tested on the same rifle.
 
Well, if the surface the bipod is sitting on isnt exactly level, what good is leveling the scope?
The same can be said assuming the surface is level but the bipod isnt accurate as for both legs being equal?
And assuming both of those things are accurate, then why cant any object that is plumb, like the corner of a building be used for properly aligning the reticle?
Most building could be out about a half inch or less. Just so you know. I have seen it many times. Plum bob is the way to go. Personally I would not trust a building.
 
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