Scope leveling idea

Another solution for mounting a scope level with a properly leveled rifle is purchase the Nightforce ATAC R 7-35x56 scope
It has a bubble level on it.
Problem solved. : )
 

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If you mounted the scope on the side and shot the gun on its side the scope would still be on top of the barrel. Just take the barrel out of the stock. As long as the scope is on top when the barrel is fired it doesn't make a difference

Assuming you don't have an action of course just a barrel.
 
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I figure that there are reasons why adjustable butt-plates are made.
Granted, this is intended for use on a .22LR, but to give an idea of just how extreme it can get:
TECHRO-003.png
More appropriate for a CF:
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Another solution for mounting a scope level with a properly leveled rifle is purchase the Nightforce ATAC R 7-35x56 scope
It has a bubble level on it.
Problem solved. : )
And exactly how do you determine when you have "a properly leveled rifle"? That is the question. Rotating a scope in the rings until the vertical crosshair is plumb is easy.
 
My definition of properly leveled is simply the rifle action is plumb to the world.
I use three different small bubble levels along the top of the action to level rifle while held in a rifle stand.
Using a reticle leveling device like the Wheeler product then allows one to remove the bubble levels and proceed with mounting scope.
There's probably more exact ways, but this system verifies using a tall target and a known good tracking scope
 

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My definition of properly leveled is simply the rifle action is plumb to the world.
I use three different small bubble levels along the top of the action to level rifle while held in a rifle stand.
Using a reticle leveling device like the Wheeler product then allows one to remove the bubble levels and proceed with mounting scope.
There's probably more exact ways, but this system verifies using a tall target and a known good tracking scope
You have more faith in the product in your pic than I would, what do you use to level the clamp on? If you need a level to level the clamp on, would you not now be level, more or less eliminating the need for it?
 
Being involved in designing production tools I don't see how that Wheeler system establishes a physical datum plane on the rifle, and without that you've got nothing that is repeatable. There needs to be some feature or set of features on the action that are used to define a datum plane. From there you can determine level.

Clamping something to the barrel, with no means of indexing it to a physical datum on the action, does nothing to determine level. All that the adjustment does is fool the operator into thinking that they've found "level". At least the lower level in the pic below references something repeatable, the bolt raceways. the upper level in the pic below is useless. It is just too bad that those tools are too cheaply made and flexible themselves.
113088-NEW_L-L-L_Product_Shot_Qrtrd_Above.jpg


When the scope is in on a pictinny rail, and the top of the rail is known to be parallel to the bore center-line and it's horizontal plane, then the Arisaka leveling tool is a reasonable method for squaring the scope. It uses the technique previously mentioned of using the bottom of the scope body as a reference.

leveler-1_f06eff7e-24ad-4885-8ee1-f5b4b02ff36a.jpg
 
I like to shoot at non game targets at 800 yds and beyond. Like PD's. So practice a lot on steel and any reticle can't is bad. So my dilemma was I would level the receiver with bubble levels, but those were in the way when mounting scope in the rings. Apply the barrel level and level to the levels on receiver and you're good to go
Move the rifle a tad while mounting the scope and you have your barrel level to readjust the rifle.
 

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I like to shoot at non game targets at 800 yds and beyond. Like PD's. So practice a lot on steel and any reticle can't is bad. So my dilemma was I would level the receiver with bubble levels, but those were in the way when mounting scope in the rings. Apply the barrel level and level to the levels on receiver and you're good to go
Move the rifle a tad while mounting the scope and you have your barrel level to readjust the rifle.
For the most part, the reticle needs to be level, rifle can be canted slightly if the reticle is level. We had quite a discussion concerning this awhile back.
I am not saying you are doing anything wrong, but in your system, once set up, you are banking that the 50 cent bubble in whatever level you use is going to take you to the promised land.
 
For the most part, the reticle needs to be level, rifle can be canted slightly if the reticle is level. We had quite a discussion concerning this awhile back.
I am not saying you are doing anything wrong, but in your system, once set up, you are banking that the 50 cent bubble in whatever level you use is going to take you to the promised land.
I'm sure you have a better method
This seems to work for me
 
Thoughts on rifles with no flat surface to put a level on? I have had this issue with several rifles and haven't been smart enough to figure a good solution. 😁
I can't help but wonder how a circle ⭕ (the bore) can be level. NPA is different
Square the tool, train yourself so your NPA is aligned.
I'm hoping to simplify the scope leveling process for my simple mind, rather than make things more complex. Am I making a fundamental error in my thinking above?
No error. You nailed it in concept.

My smith works off the feed rails
I *used* to do that too. What looks square, often is not.
Is the shooter the Cale Yarborough of shooters?
Now there's a timeline!
Have one similar on my Beretta. Awesome.

Learned the following from a guy on NWFA Have done it once, best method for when you have to do it in the field: I will bring bright yellow or pink string and split shot in my kit.
  1. Return your scope to mechanical zero (not your set zero on zero stop scopes...)
  2. Weight string with something, and hang string with split shot about midline at 21 yards.
  3. Remove rifle bolt
  4. Bore sight on shot on string
  5. While keeping the shot sight-centered in the bore, rotate the rifle until the reticle cross is also centered on the line. (This step is very difficult)
  6. Align the vertical reticle line with the string.
  7. Tighten
If you've done it right, your rifle will be within 3moa at 100.
Zero, tracking test, tall target, etc.
 
I'm sure you have a better method
This seems to work for me
Sorry if it came across that way, but no I don't. Yes, I try level my action, bolt raceway level, level on pic rail to verify. Level the reticle. I think it is imperative to to try learn w/o the crutch, and there is a system just for that. I use a bubble on my 7 saum that I shoot to 2K+, the rest i do not. I was banging 1.5moa plate at 1600 with a 6 BRA last Sunday w/o a level. I would just as soon not use one if possible.
 
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