More appropriate for a CF:.......
I figure that there are reasons why adjustable butt-plates are made.
Granted, this is intended for use on a .22LR, but to give an idea of just how extreme it can get:
TEC-HRO Fusion Buttplate
TEC-HRO Fusion Buttplate Butt-plate TEC-HRO fusion Innovations and advancements of the new butt-plate TEC-HRO fusion: Three-dimensional adjustable shoulder contact surfaces (with ball joints) Short design (the length of the stock stays individually adjustable) New construction of...www.creedmoorsports.com
And exactly how do you determine when you have "a properly leveled rifle"? That is the question. Rotating a scope in the rings until the vertical crosshair is plumb is easy.Another solution for mounting a scope level with a properly leveled rifle is purchase the Nightforce ATAC R 7-35x56 scope
It has a bubble level on it.
Problem solved. : )
What? I have a F1 7-35, don't think it had a bubble.Another solution for mounting a scope level with a properly leveled rifle is purchase the Nightforce ATAC R 7-35x56 scope
It has a bubble level on it.
Problem solved. : )
You have more faith in the product in your pic than I would, what do you use to level the clamp on? If you need a level to level the clamp on, would you not now be level, more or less eliminating the need for it?My definition of properly leveled is simply the rifle action is plumb to the world.
I use three different small bubble levels along the top of the action to level rifle while held in a rifle stand.
Using a reticle leveling device like the Wheeler product then allows one to remove the bubble levels and proceed with mounting scope.
There's probably more exact ways, but this system verifies using a tall target and a known good tracking scope
Milo-2What? I have a F1 7-35, don't think it had a bubble.
For the most part, the reticle needs to be level, rifle can be canted slightly if the reticle is level. We had quite a discussion concerning this awhile back.I like to shoot at non game targets at 800 yds and beyond. Like PD's. So practice a lot on steel and any reticle can't is bad. So my dilemma was I would level the receiver with bubble levels, but those were in the way when mounting scope in the rings. Apply the barrel level and level to the levels on receiver and you're good to go
Move the rifle a tad while mounting the scope and you have your barrel level to readjust the rifle.
I'm sure you have a better methodFor the most part, the reticle needs to be level, rifle can be canted slightly if the reticle is level. We had quite a discussion concerning this awhile back.
I am not saying you are doing anything wrong, but in your system, once set up, you are banking that the 50 cent bubble in whatever level you use is going to take you to the promised land.
Thoughts on rifles with no flat surface to put a level on? I have had this issue with several rifles and haven't been smart enough to figure a good solution.
Square the tool, train yourself so your NPA is aligned.I can't help but wonder how a circle (the bore) can be level. NPA is different
No error. You nailed it in concept.I'm hoping to simplify the scope leveling process for my simple mind, rather than make things more complex. Am I making a fundamental error in my thinking above?
I *used* to do that too. What looks square, often is not.My smith works off the feed rails
Now there's a timeline!Is the shooter the Cale Yarborough of shooters?
Have one similar on my Beretta. Awesome.
Sorry if it came across that way, but no I don't. Yes, I try level my action, bolt raceway level, level on pic rail to verify. Level the reticle. I think it is imperative to to try learn w/o the crutch, and there is a system just for that. I use a bubble on my 7 saum that I shoot to 2K+, the rest i do not. I was banging 1.5moa plate at 1600 with a 6 BRA last Sunday w/o a level. I would just as soon not use one if possible.I'm sure you have a better method
This seems to work for me