K9TXS
Well-Known Member
Yes it does. Mounts straight to the rifle.
Best scope leveling tool?
- Thread starter ThompsonPT
- Start date
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Because some of us like to hit the rock on the first try instead of accuracy through volume.
Beyond me why anyone would want to dial windage into their come ups.
In a land and time far, far away, I sometimes quite enjoyed "fire for effect" excursions....not directly on my dime.
yobuck
Well-Known Member
Well see you full well know that your statement is dreamworld.
Certainly we all prefer to have first round hits.
And based upon the distance, and prevailing conditions at the time of the shot many of us achieve that on a pretty consistant basis.
I would agree that dialing for windage prior to a shot isnt a necessity. Mainly i believe that because i believe the expert wind readers are also living in a dream world.
Take a sighter shot whenever possible, including while hunting.
And a first round miss amounts to the same thing dosent it.
I frankly dont dial for windage even on a miss, unless its a very large miss.
So what does this have to do with scope leveling?
Only that a slighly out of plumb reticle is a condition you are apt to be faced with anyway in the real world.
Especially when hunting and laying on your belly with your heart rate up
Big pumpkin
Member
I would have never thought of doing it this way. But from now on I'm going to use this method.
ThompsonPT
Well-Known Member
Ammo has gotten too expensive to be shooting at rocks. 
I agree. This is has been the easiest most effective leveling tool I have used. I use the wall projection technique. I first center the barrel over the scope. With the bubble in the level centered, I then project the reticle on the wall about 3-4 feet from from the scopes eyepiece aligned to a plum bob hung in a wall. The reticle can be projected by shining a flashlight into the objective lens. Turn the scope to align the reticle with the vertical plumb line on the wall. Then set your scope level to this position. The result is a centered barrel, and plumb reticle.
Actual field confirmation tall tests have been 100% on with my rifles set up this way.
So school me here.
I'm confused why so much effort is being placed into "leveling a rifle" by some in this process. I know from the bubble level permanently attached to my scope that due to positional changes and the slope of where I am shooting or the slope my target is on my rifle is usually not level by me merely holding it in what I think is a perfect vertical orientation without me visually checking that bubble level on my scope. I have no flat ground anywhere I shoot. So why are so many focused on leveling the rifle rather than having your rifle in your natural hold position (canted or not) as long as your vertical reticle is truly vertical to gravity and the bubble level on your scope is centered?
I'm confused why so much effort is being placed into "leveling a rifle" by some in this process. I know from the bubble level permanently attached to my scope that due to positional changes and the slope of where I am shooting or the slope my target is on my rifle is usually not level by me merely holding it in what I think is a perfect vertical orientation without me visually checking that bubble level on my scope. I have no flat ground anywhere I shoot. So why are so many focused on leveling the rifle rather than having your rifle in your natural hold position (canted or not) as long as your vertical reticle is truly vertical to gravity and the bubble level on your scope is centered?
I think that "leveling the rifle", adds a measure of context to the rifle. While as long as the scope is plumb and aligned parallel to the bore, you are right that bubble level on the scope should produce a good tall rest result(given a correct calibration/set-up)…and the stock may or may not be vertical. I think the advantage of vertically aligning the rifles bore/barrel to the scope generally results in the stock being very close to a vertical/natural orientation while also being very close to the scopes optical center. I generally prefer to center the scope to the barrel as opposed the action rails(Wheeler kit) which may not always align exactly to a centered barrel. Aligning to the rifle is necessary if there is a fixed bubble level is attached to the rifles rail or stock which is common on some rifles/chassis systems, and one wishes to use that level while shooting. IMO.
I'm a bit confused on why people think getting the vertical crosshair in as near perfect alignment as possible, is somehow not worthwhile. Sure, at 100yrds there's very little divergence from from plumb. However, we all know that as distance increases, imperfections are magnified. I myself, would MUCH rather spend whatever time necessary to get as close to perfect as I can, so I can have the confidence that dialing my elevation will result in the bullet placement I wanted.
If I have a zero value wind and need 5 M.O.A. of elevation at distance, I don't want my bullet landing 5 M.O.A. up and 1 M.O.A. left or right. If I spend the necessary time to level the rifle, then establish plumb with a plumb bob, I'm about as square and true to the bore center as I can get. THAT leads me to confidence in my gear.
If I have a zero value wind and need 5 M.O.A. of elevation at distance, I don't want my bullet landing 5 M.O.A. up and 1 M.O.A. left or right. If I spend the necessary time to level the rifle, then establish plumb with a plumb bob, I'm about as square and true to the bore center as I can get. THAT leads me to confidence in my gear.
What make of mounts are you using?
