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Reloading Safety

Been reloading for 10+ years, but after reading a couple posts on this board, something new I am really worried about is, "Don't ignore the very real threat of static electricity."

Very much so, the static electricity is one to watch for. Another that people have said is any phones, iPads, and internet connection boxes. I unplug everything anywhere or move it out of the room, don't have it near my electronic scale. It makes it go crazy. If it's a beam scale make sure you zero the beam scale also.
 
I agree with all of the comments and wisdom conveyed above. Yes, I did a double take at the torch and laughed later when I learned that torch meant light and not a flame!! Glad it was so, best to ya Fordy!

Relaying a glitch I recently had while reloading in hopes that others can learn from my mistake. Many hear do single stage loading. I've used a Dillon RL550B and a Squaredeal B (handgun, .45acp) since 1990. Never had issue till couple months back. The RL550B loads many different rounds for me over the years (.308 win, 30-30, 6.8spc, .380 acp, .45 colt, .38 special, .357 magnum, 9mm). I developed a load for 6.8 SPC for hunting. Bullet is the Cavity Back Bullet copper 105g MKZ, AA2200 Powder. Previous ladder test showed node at 28.8-29.2g, loaded long at 2.295" (longer won't fit in magazine). MV ran on average at 2822fps. Relatively new to me was using AA2200 powder.

I've never had a low powder sensor on my powder hopper. Have always watched powder level when loading and when I see about an inch left in hopper, I load it up again. Loaded for 29g of powder. Loaded 150 rounds, went to the range and six misfires showed up. Extraction of the rounds showed bullets all intact, what appeared to be good strike on primer. I initially thought bad primers or bad firing pin. Couple dozen rounds had fired well, no bullets lodged in barrel, primers from a lot of 5000 I bought in 2009, fired rounds and unfired rounds, primer strike looked the same. Packed up and went home.

With puller, took the misfire rounds apart and sure enough, primer had fired on each, colett crimp held bullet in place. Took the remaining unfired rounds and weight separated two groups on my Ohaus scale. Greater that 240g, powder good, less than 240g, no powder. Total of 24 more rounds that indicated no powder. Pulled em all and in fact no powder. 20% defective, I called Dillon Precision and Dave explained that most times, when this issue has surfaced, it is static related and that I should use a cling free dryer sheet and wipe down every surface the powder touches. My next reload session, I plan to do so. But I'm also thinking that letting my hopper get down to what I've thought was a safe level (approx 1") maybe the culprit. At my local gun range recently, a friend that reloads described something called the angle of repose. Before he retired, he was involved in the checking of fill levels in silos and he said that all granular material has varying levels of repose. Surface tensions cause a cone shaped fill when loading a hopper and it varies from a steep cone to a shallow cone depending on the material. He thought my relatively new powder I was using may have a steep cone (higher angle of repose), as he said filling of a hopper and draining a hopper normally have the same cone shape. When filling, the cone points up. When emptying, the cone points down. I noted to him, I'd seen this when i Put fertilizer in my spreader and when it goes empty.

I think I ran my powder hopper dry and didn't see it. More frequent check as noted above, dryer wipes and fuller hopper are all in the plan from now on
 
1) Plan the layout of your loading space to insure that should the unthinkable happen you have a clear exit path.
2) I'm surprised nobody has mentioned this but buy a suitable Class A or multi-class A/B/C fire extinguisher and place it where you can get to it quickly.
3) If in doubt, pour it out. Components are cheaper than doctors.
 
Getting into reloading. After reading "the ABC's of reloading" by Phillip Massaro, I feel like I have a general grasp on the basics. What I'm looking for is the general "don't do this" safety measures that'll make sure I don't learn something the hard way. So far, it looks pretty simple. Anything I should add to the list below?

Note: I only plan to reload rifle ammo.

- don't mix up pistol and rifle powder (moot, as I won't be loading pistol)
- take measures to avoid spilling your primers all over the place. Keep them somewhere different from your powder.
- inspect your brass
-have a system for making sure you don't "double-load" (although it seems like if you double-loaded a rifle cartridge it would overfill and spill all over the place)
- don't smash your hand in the press
- don't light your can of powder on fire (ok, that one is a little too obvious)

Anything to add? Seems like a relatively safe endeavor if you don't do obviously dumb things. There's an endless amount of stuff to squeeze accuracy out of a round, but the basic safety measures seem pretty simple.
If you are going to anneal your cases and you are planning on using an open flame system of some type, don't do it near your powder or primers. Sounds silly, I know, but I caught a buddy of mine doing exactly that. And he had gotten by with it for over a year at that point.
 
Gday rickjoty
Torch, meaning flashlight in American English
Yes that's it 👍😎
A few of us aussies are no doubt hard to follow so glad you guys picked that up & then there's me lol @hutchsc 👍 I'm use to my muppet moments but advise a double take is a safer route & in the future I'll try better
Cheers
 
when you do use the collet(or other types) to pull the bullets, actually look into the cases(flash lights please) to make sure the powder all came out, if they were full, compressed loads, some powder can actually stick inside, I redid some rounds that were close to pressure and found a couple grains stuck inside a few of the cases…. Glad I looked!
 
I've been reloading for over 40 years. One thing my uncle taught when I was starting was to only do "1 thing at a time" on the reloading bench. I've stuck with that (and it's stuck with me....) to this day. If you looked into the workshop area you'd probably wonder why that "1" bench seems so organized compared to the rest of the room. It's not a bad thing....
 
Differing opinion on phones and electronics In he reloading area. My scale is digital, is run by Bluetooth, and has an automatic trickler that is accurate to 0.02 grains. I have double weighed, checked with other scales and have found it to be very accurate and repeatable. It is run with my iPad on a stand about 12" away. I am always listening to music or podcast with my phone and AirPod Pros. It all works very well together producing consistent loads. Perhaps others have scales that are not meant to be around blue tooth or Wi-Fi but mine is designed to run that way And works for me.

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Load a block of 50 or less at a time. After charging all cases with powder, observe, with a flashlight, the height of the powder in the case. It is usually obvious if you've over charged a case, but weighing is always a good idea. I use a Uniflow powder measure to charge case to within a grain of the weight that I want. I dump that out onto a scale and trickle up to my target weight. Because my last step is seating bullets I again check charges randomly. My loading block holds 50. I pull one of every 10, check the charge on the scale then proceed to seat bullets. I always check runout on a few as well. I discovered a worn component on my press by doing that.
 
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