Reloading

Based on a recent sneak peek of my chamber I found that the junction that you pictured above was filled with carbon. What a horror show trying to get it out. One thing I did learn was that just reducing it helped return the rifle's accuracy. I think I'd need a reamer to get it all out.
What cartridge and powder? I haven't noticed any carbon in any of my rifles even in the ones with bad erosion.
 
What cartridge and powder? I haven't noticed any carbon in any of my rifles even in the ones with bad erosion.

My 7WSM, shooting mostly RE23 has a distinct carbon ring that doesn't want to come out. I checked my 6.5 PRC and it doesn't look much different but the PRC still shoots well. The WSM's accuracy went south and I couldn't determine why. Accuracy improved noticeably just by removing some of the carbon.

You've got me interested in running brass at near full length rather than trimming to .010" short of SAMMI max length. Looks like I'll need to replace my Lyman bore scope with a longer one.
 
My 7WSM, shooting mostly RE23 has a distinct carbon ring that doesn't want to come out
Wet a patch with CLR and let it sit in there for about 5-10 minutes then rotate a brush in there it will come out.
But make sure you get all the CLR out after wards or use some C4 on a patch and push it into the area and let it sit for a long time it will soften it up.
Just keep checking how your progress is with a boresope.
CLR or carbon remover works well on a bore mop the right size for the area works well or the round felt patches that are caliber specific rotated in there work good after its softened up.
 
Wet a patch with CLR and let it sit in there for about 5-10 minutes then rotate a brush in there it will come out.
But make sure you get all the CLR out after wards or use some C4 on a patch and push it into the area and let it sit for a long time it will soften it up.
Just keep checking how your progress is with a boresope.
CLR or carbon remover works well on a bore mop the right size for the area works well or the round felt patches that are caliber specific rotated in there work good after its softened up.

I used C4 soaked patches and left them in for hours, refreshing the solvent periodically. Then I used some Flitz and elbow grease. Eventually went back to C4 followed by a .284 brass brush and some slow turning of the short rod. Things got better but not devoid of carbon.

After another range session I'll recheck and try to remove more carbon if its still accumulated. This stuff is crazy tough.
 
Based on a recent sneak peek of my chamber I found that the junction that you pictured above was filled with carbon. What a horror show trying to get it out. One thing I did learn was that just reducing it helped return the rifle's accuracy. I think I'd need a reamer to get it all out.
How many rounds did it take to get the carbon build up?
 
Since Teslong has introduced the unwashed masses to the world of the bore scope I wish someone who really knows what he/she is looking at would put out a picture book and educate us with regard to what we are actually seeing.
I second that!
 
How many rounds did it take to get the carbon build up?

That's hard to judge. The rifle has 300-400 rds on a new Bartlein bbl. I clean the gun thoroughly (I thought) after every range session but don't run the bore scope to confirm cleanliness.

I've got a similar ring on my 6.5 PRC which has 500 rds down the tube. That rifle is cleaned religiously too.
 
Carbon ring problems are why I dont let my hunting rifles go more that 50 rounds before cleaning, I dont know how guys keep control over it that say they go as much as 200 rounds or more. These days I worry more about Carbon build up more than copper on a good custom barrel.
 
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