Reloading

I started with the manufacturers recommendations. Never steered me wrong (Meaning I didn't mess or blow anything up.) There was not club or mentor near me, so it was learn by doing, asking and talking to people internet and YouTube research and common sense. Only had to return two item for warranty repairs (brute force is NOT needed for ANYTHING) After that. t experience and being conservative have served me well. rewriteshire - let mw know if you find out where I can also get a money tree!!!!!!
 
I started with the manufacturers recommendations. Never steered me wrong (Meaning I didn't mess or blow anything up.) There was not club or mentor near me, so it was learn by doing, asking and talking to people internet and YouTube research and common sense. Only had to return two item for warranty repairs (brute force is NOT needed for ANYTHING) After that. t experience and being conservative have served me well. rewriteshire - let mw know if you find out where I can also get a money tree!!!!!!
Problem with money tree is it uses money for fertilizer!!
 
A lot of good advice in the posts above, notably from Orange dust.

I would add a couple of thoughts:

1. Although reloading can be dangerous, many of us started out feeling our way along. You have a good start with the equipment you have so far, but it needs to be set up in a place free from distractions and you need to have a routine that allows you to process ammo in the same way each time. If you have a dedicated bench, and you should, make it solid.

2. I usually tell people who are just starting to organize their loading space. Good shelves will help you, as will good records of what you are doing.

3. The first set of Redding dies I got came with a coating of some preservative on them. Clean that off before you start, as it will only get in the way and make it difficult to adjust the dies.

4. If you have more than one type of powder (and you certainly will soon) keep different powders segregated. That means do not leave powder in your measure when you quit for the day, or else some day you will forget which powder it is. And in measures with plastic reservoirs, the powder will discolor the plastic.

5. Write down what your components and charges are so you can repeat good ones and avoid repeating those that don't work well. Keep those records somewhere you will refer to them regularly as you develop loads.

6. It's an expensive item, but I think a chronograph is an essential part of load development. If you don't know what kind of velocity variation you are getting with different loads, you will have a hard time comparing loads. And ultimately, you are looking for repeatability from one cartridge to the next, with the smallest variation from shot to shot.

I just counted up and realized I started loading 58 years ago. That surprised me! And as someone said above, I'm sill learning every time I reload. Don't be discouraged when you find out there is something you didn't know before -- I only learned about bumping shoulders when I got into bench rest shooting 5 years ago. And so it goes. If you wait until you know everything before you start, you'll never start. Get some good advice setting up the equipment, then go for it!
Great response! 56 years for me and and still learning....when you and I started there were about 40 powder choices I do believe and three or four of those were shotgun and three or four pistol.....that was confusing enough just starting out......wow...now I believe it's about 150 powder selections! But...it's a ton of fun....very rewarding and hugely cost effective when loading the bigger stuff vs commercial sales! Enjoy
 
One more word.....Highlighted MAXIMUM loads doesn't mean BEST! Means approach with caution! Start lower,work up and as an extra precaution find someone else that has a powder scale to check yours! They don't all work out the box just like everything else in the world. Your scale is your best friend....but it could be your worst enemy! You have no idea at this point what 1 grain of powder (not one piece of powder) actually looks like)
 
HEED those words of wisdom? SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY~!~! My rifle likes a powder load (with two different powder depending on bullet used) about 1.5 grains under max. And I find having a GOOD beam-balance scale an absolute necessity to double check. I use a digital dispenser and then measure again on the B-B scale to ensure weight accuracy. I double check again at about every ten rounds on the B-B. Most other reloaders I know do pretty much the same thing. I also measure three times to ensure consistency BEFORE any powder goes in the first ase.
 
HEED those words of wisdom? SAFETY SAFETY SAFETY~!~! My rifle likes a powder load (with two different powder depending on bullet used) about 1.5 grains under max. And I find having a GOOD beam-balance scale an absolute necessity to double check. I use a digital dispenser and then measure again on the B-B scale to ensure weight accuracy. I double check again at about every ten rounds on the B-B. Most other reloaders I know do pretty much the same thing. I also measure three times to ensure consistency BEFORE any powder goes in the first ase.

Yes and always visual check your loads in the reloading block if/whenever possible. It's easy to get distracted, a powder drop gets missed and now there's a round with no powder in the case waiting to get a bullet seated on it. Visual checking is another system of checks and balances.
 
Some earlier mentioned buying a Chronograph. I feel it is as essential as a reloading press. Not only does it indicate consistency, it can also be a great indicator of pressure. Look at your load book. It will tell you the firearm the load was tested in. Usually a universal receiver with a pressure barrel. It will also tell the barrel length. If your velocity exceeds those in the book it us usually safe to assume that your pressure is higher also. Not a tell all, but one of the many warning signs. You should not exceed the book velocity for a maximum load without a longer barrel, not as a beginner anyway. Don't go the other way though and exceed the book maximum charge to get the book max velocity. Never exceed maximum charges. More useful piece of equipment for a beginner than power trimmers, auto charge scales and the like. Should be high on your list for purchase.
 
One other thing that no one has mentioned unless I missed it. Never use a starting load below the book starting load unless you REALLY know what you are doing! can sometimes be more dangerous than an overload. The extra air space combined with some powders can cause detonation instead of a controlled burn. Not a pleasant experience. Also can cause squib loads and hangfires so just don't try it. Stay with the ranges in the book for now. They know what they are doing.
 
Yes and always visual check your loads in the reloading block if/whenever possible. It's easy to get distracted, a powder drop gets missed and now there's a round with no powder in the case waiting to get a bullet seated on it. Visual checking is another system of checks and balances.
Make sure the area is very well lit. Use a flashlight if you need to, to check the charges.
 
One other thing that no one has mentioned unless I missed it. Never use a starting load below the book starting load unless you REALLY know what you are doing! can sometimes be more dangerous than an overload. The extra air space combined with some powders can cause detonation instead of a controlled burn. Not a pleasant experience. Also can cause squib loads and hangfires so just don't try it. Stay with the ranges in the book for now. They know what they are doing.
I also like to find a powder that fills the case at least 90%. I use to load powder in a .45 Colt and worried because there was such a small amount in the bottom of the case. When turned on it's side to fire, I worried about the primer igniting the charge and excess pressure. Because these were used for CAS shooting I didn't want full heavy loads. Switched to TrailBoss which is a very 'fluffy' powder and filled the case better.
 
A lot of good advice in the posts above, notably from Orange dust.

I would add a couple of thoughts:

1. Although reloading can be dangerous, many of us started out feeling our way along. You have a good start with the equipment you have so far, but it needs to be set up in a place free from distractions and you need to have a routine that allows you to process ammo in the same way each time. If you have a dedicated bench, and you should, make it solid.

2. I usually tell people who are just starting to organize their loading space. Good shelves will help you, as will good records of what you are doing.

3. The first set of Redding dies I got came with a coating of some preservative on them. Clean that off before you start, as it will only get in the way and make it difficult to adjust the dies.

4. If you have more than one type of powder (and you certainly will soon) keep different powders segregated. That means do not leave powder in your measure when you quit for the day, or else some day you will forget which powder it is. And in measures with plastic reservoirs, the powder will discolor the plastic.

5. Write down what your components and charges are so you can repeat good ones and avoid repeating those that don't work well. Keep those records somewhere you will refer to them regularly as you develop loads.

6. It's an expensive item, but I think a chronograph is an essential part of load development. If you don't know what kind of velocity variation you are getting with different loads, you will have a hard time comparing loads. And ultimately, you are looking for repeatability from one cartridge to the next, with the smallest variation from shot to shot.

I just counted up and realized I started loading 58 years ago. That surprised me! And as someone said above, I'm sill learning every time I reload. Don't be discouraged when you find out there is something you didn't know before -- I only learned about bumping shoulders when I got into bench rest shooting 5 years ago. And so it goes. If you wait until you know everything before you start, you'll never start. Get some good advice setting up the equipment, then go for it!
 
Don't forget about keeping your work area and components secure.
An old set of cabinets from a kitchen remodel is great for storage as your new hobby grows. And it will.
 
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