Not to happy

[kgunz11]

I am glad I have been looking at this. I just got my rifle back from the gun smith. I am looking at the charges for doing the work. I had order out 2 barrels. One to be an extra barrel if I need it and don't want to wait for a barrel to be shipped in. I noted I was charged for 2 barreling set up for chambering. I only did not. So I am going back to get a refund on 2 items. Charges are as follows: chambering, Thread & engrave $315.00 each, and thread adapter for muzzle brake at $125.00 each. So I am going to get back $440.00. Thank you everybody for bring this up.

If he chambered 2 barrels for, you were charged correctly. Your post is a bit hard to understand though.

 

[WahooYahoo]

I am glad I have been looking at this. I just got my rifle back from the gun smith. I am looking at the charges for doing the work. I had order out 2 barrels. One to be an extra barrel if I need it and don't want to wait for a barrel to be shipped in. I noted I was charged for 2 barreling set up for chambering. I only did not. So I am going back to get a refund on 2 items. Charges are as follows: chambering, Thread & engrave $315.00 each, and thread adapter for muzzle brake at $125.00 each. So I am going to get back $440.00. Thank you everybody for bring this up.

Both barrels had to be set up, indexed and what not. Charging for the setup 2x is correct.

 

[Mike Matteson]

It cost almost the same or more depending on manufacture to have them reworked or sharpened, been down that road and it's not cost effective with shipping and everything. More effective to just bite the bullet and buy a carbide reamer with matching core drill.

Thanks for the info. I remember that.

 

[Mike Matteson]

Both barrels had to be set up, indexed and what not. Charging for the setup 2x is correct.

I only had one barrel set up. The other remains a blank. So there won't be a second charge. I would agree if I had the second barrel worked over. Being I had a 6mm/280AI built, I an not sure just how long that barrel is going to hold up. Both barrels are Bartlein Metal Grade 400MODBB. 1-7 twist rate. I didn't want wait for months to get another barrel if needed.
I am thinking about having a 257/280AI built. So I will have to get another barrel for that if I go ahead. The one thing is I don't think I will get as long a barrel the next time. The 32" cut down to a 30" really make the rifle very heavy at the front end. I have almost completed my new reloading equipment now. That has taken more time than getting the rifle built. That was in part of looking at what I wanted, reading about the equipment I felt I wanted and really needed or afforded. The equipment should last a life time, and me being older, I know my sons will use it.

 

[tobnpr]

The reamer is built longer and can be cut back to either adjust or create a different setting on the reamer.

Never heard of it... don't see how this is possible, sure would like to see this animal.

Haven't tried carbide because I think they're better suited to the speeds/feeds of a more rigid CNC setup. All new reamers I get are TiN coated. Manson charges $40 to resharpen a reamer, so I do see that as cost effective; that said I usually "retire" a finisher when I start to see the sharpness/definition of the leade deteriorate and use it as a "rougher" for the majority of the chamber then finish with a newer/sharper reamer to get the best leade. The leade section of the reamer is critical, and it's also the section of the reamer exposed to the most wear. Drilling/preboring obviously helps the wear/tear as well.

 

[kgunz11]

Never heard of it... don't see how this is possible, sure would like to see this animal.

Haven't tried carbide because I think they're better suited to the speeds/feeds of a more rigid CNC setup. All new reamers I get are TiN coated. Manson charges $40 to resharpen a reamer, so I do see that as cost effective; that said I usually "retire" a finisher when I start to see the sharpness/definition of the leade deteriorate and use it as a "rougher" for the majority of the chamber then finish with a newer/sharper reamer to get the best leade. The leade section of the reamer is critical, and it's also the section of the reamer exposed to the most wear. Drilling/preboring obviously helps the wear/tear as well.

It's not uncommon at all to have a reamer "re-ground". You can change the freebore and throat angle with that process, or simply just set it back for a resharpening. You can turn a 6.5CM into a 6mmCM if you wanted to.

 

[bigngreen]

Never heard of it... don't see how this is possible, sure would like to see this animal.

Haven't tried carbide because I think they're better suited to the speeds/feeds of a more rigid CNC setup. All new reamers I get are TiN coated. Manson charges $40 to resharpen a reamer, so I do see that as cost effective; that said I usually "retire" a finisher when I start to see the sharpness/definition of the leade deteriorate and use it as a "rougher" for the majority of the chamber then finish with a newer/sharper reamer to get the best leade. The leade section of the reamer is critical, and it's also the section of the reamer exposed to the most wear. Drilling/preboring obviously helps the wear/tear as well.

I like carbide, it's fragile and does require good flushing and getting with it but I use a high pressure flush system and CNC cutting fluids on my manual set up so I push a reamer pretty aggressively. I can feed the reamer with the carriage if I want or tailstock, carbide can be nice especially in those smaller ones you crank out every week!!!

 

[Mike Matteson]

If he chambered 2 barrels for, you were charged correctly. Your post is a bit hard to understand though.

Only chamber one barrel. The other is here with me at home rapped up. I have no complain on the costs of the having a rifle built. This is the first time I had a reamer built for the job. In the neck area it ended up a little tighter than wanted. I was looking for .013 thickness (total of .026) instead of .012 thickness (total of .024)in the neck area only. I got to checking the two fired case and one was at .012 presently. That has me concerned that I might have to reduce the thickness to .011, (total of .022) and seem to be on the thin side. So I was looking into having a new reamer built. The smith told be that the present reamer can be rework to adjust for that. He when into how it's done. I found that to be interesting. The next time I have a reamer built I will give some additional info on what I want.
What had happen I got to looking at the bill on the work and noted I was bill for two barrel work. I only had one done. So the cost for chambering, stamping the barrel, and threading the barrel for a muzzle brake or suppressor. The change is $440.00 per barrel. So I get back that much back.
The detail I used was from a Sierra Manual picture showing a 280AI case and bullet. I am able to modify the picture to reflect a different neck sizes for 6mm, and dimensions. Showing .243 bullet Dia, and .269 for the totally OD dimensions with the case neck. I was told that the reamer builder would allow for clearance. Next time I will be sure in calling and additional .002 for clearance after case is fired. Live and learn. For this cartridge I should have called out .271 to stop a possible problem I think. If I am wrong please let me know. I am on a learning curve.
I am just about ready to start shooting the rifle. I will go very slow to start with only cutting a few case to .012 thickness, and see how the case extracts after firing the round, and watching for pressure signs. The first hundred rounds will be for fireforming the cases. I'll see what kind of monster I have created. My pin to paper isn't the greatest. I am dyslexia, so I don't know which eye I am looking out of. Ha! Ha!.

 

[Lymey]

Pics?

Here are a couple of pics of the color case hardening.