kfreeze
Well-Known Member
There is a problem. The factory needs to deal with it if other brands of factory ammo is doing that too.
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Is this normal
- Thread starter Hunterguy
- Start date
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nkyshooter
Well-Known Member
I'd be suspicious the bolt face may not be true ...
These look like pressure signs to me ... and if factory ammo, then they are loaded to remain within SAAMI specs in a rifle chambered to SAAMI specs ... if you are getting pressure from factory loads, them something with the chamber, throat, barrel, and/or bolt face are a factor in the problem ...
Either way - Christensen should resolve it IMHO.
These look like pressure signs to me ... and if factory ammo, then they are loaded to remain within SAAMI specs in a rifle chambered to SAAMI specs ... if you are getting pressure from factory loads, them something with the chamber, throat, barrel, and/or bolt face are a factor in the problem ...
Either way - Christensen should resolve it IMHO.
RockyMtnUT
Well-Known Member
Post after post of CA junk
I knew what brand of rifle it was before scrolling down to see. This topic is everywhere all the time blaming ammo. The single common denominator is CA.
Bobby-Long
Active Member
My one and only experience with a CA firearm showed brass flow and sheer in the ejector holes with factory ammo as well. It also had an extremely tight chamber and was difficult to get once fired and sized brass to chamber. It was the tightest chamber I had seen on a factory rifle. Some factory rounds wouldn't chamber.
I would like to say however, my Ruger FTW in 6.5 Creed did this with the first 5 shots from the gun when new. I was very alarmed by this, so I went home and disassembled the bolt to inspect the machining and tool marks on the bolt face closely. What I found was very small burrs at the edge of the ejector slot. I then took a small piece of 600 grit sand paper, smaller than a cm square, and a dental pic with a little oil and cleaned up the edges.
The next time out shooting, the heavy bolt lift and ejector marks were gone. I don't know if that is what is going on with yours but it might be worth a look.
Does the bolt close easily on factory ammunition?
Have you measured once fired vs new brass?
Last winter, my son won a Rem 700 in 270 wsm. ( $5.00 ticket)
Checked the feeding etc with snap caps he had. He took it to the range when he could finally find 270 wsm ammo. (My rules, use factory ammo on new/newly acquired guns!)
At the range, with some difficulty, it would feed Factory Ammo ( Winchester brass cartridges). With some effort he got it to chamber rounds . He fired 5 rounds to satisfy himself to it's accuracy. Shot about a 1/2" group. But, it left ejector – extractor marks on the cartridge.
He then drove up the road a few miles to a well know gunsmith/long range shooter. Thought he would have to leave it to be picked up at a later date. But, the smith worked it right away.
The bolt, was disassembled and the bolt face polished along with the extractor, ejector, feed ramp.
Works perfect.
Cost $35.00 for smithing, so now he has $40.00 in the rifle. No marks on the cartridges.
Checked the feeding etc with snap caps he had. He took it to the range when he could finally find 270 wsm ammo. (My rules, use factory ammo on new/newly acquired guns!)
At the range, with some difficulty, it would feed Factory Ammo ( Winchester brass cartridges). With some effort he got it to chamber rounds . He fired 5 rounds to satisfy himself to it's accuracy. Shot about a 1/2" group. But, it left ejector – extractor marks on the cartridge.
He then drove up the road a few miles to a well know gunsmith/long range shooter. Thought he would have to leave it to be picked up at a later date. But, the smith worked it right away.
The bolt, was disassembled and the bolt face polished along with the extractor, ejector, feed ramp.
Works perfect.
Cost $35.00 for smithing, so now he has $40.00 in the rifle. No marks on the cartridges.
I've got a CA Mesa in 6.5 that wouldn't eject shells. I have to manually remove them from the rifle. The guys from the long range precision shooting course I was in said it was malfunctioning and to send it back. Sent it back to CA and they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. It's a real accurate gun and will hit the targets at 1000 yds but it would be nice if it would cycle rounds. After all I've read about the brand I guess I'm one of the lucky ones as it's a shooter. Oh, I did get a really cool baseball hat when they returned my weapon.
HRM Johnny
Well-Known Member
Tag
LoneTraveler
Well-Known Member
The WSM series of cartridges seem to multiply any little problems with Extractor, Ejector Plunger cutouts and bolt face squaring. The size of the case head diameter .535 puts more force on the cartridge head, And Bolt face. With SAMMI listing pressure for the 300 WSM at 64,000 psi. would put force on the bolt face.
I like the 300 WSM cartridge for a light mountain rifle, Would choose 300 WM for a heavier rifle.
I like the 300 WSM cartridge for a light mountain rifle, Would choose 300 WM for a heavier rifle.
Blue Ridge Rifleman
Well-Known Member
I have found that my Ridgeline in 280 Ackley has a super short throat and unless one is diligent with seating depth verification, I could envision reloads jammed into the lands with the resultant high pressure.
It feeds good just heavy bolt after shot first time sent back I could barley lift the bolt after firing this time still heavy bolt and ejector marks
If anyone could recommend a good Smith in Washington I would greatly appreciate it I'm done dealing with them after saying that this is normal
If anyone could recommend a good Smith in Washington I would greatly appreciate it I'm done dealing with them after saying that this is normal
lancetkenyon
Well-Known Member
Have you chronoed the rounds?
You might have a tight bore that seemingly pressures up early.
I have seen .300WSM Federal factory loads show pressure signs in a Savage, Tikka and a Rem 700.
Very well could be the ammo, not the gun.
Maybe time to shoot reloads a little cooler. I know you said you tried 6 different reloads, but if they are not tailored for YOUR rifle, that doesn't mean diddley. I never shoot someone else's reloads.
You might have a tight bore that seemingly pressures up early.
I have seen .300WSM Federal factory loads show pressure signs in a Savage, Tikka and a Rem 700.
Very well could be the ammo, not the gun.
Maybe time to shoot reloads a little cooler. I know you said you tried 6 different reloads, but if they are not tailored for YOUR rifle, that doesn't mean diddley. I never shoot someone else's reloads.
SageRatShooter
Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2017
- Messages
- 12
So I think this is what I would do if it were my rifle. And no it is not normal.
1) get factory ammo mid weight for the caliber stay away from the really heavy long bullets for now in case it is a short throat and your previous attempts were jammed causing a pressure spike.
2) measure your previously fired brass and compare to specs for any abnormalities. If there is something strange stop and discuss with CA or another smith for remedy before going any further.
3)If you can check your throat for jam do so and compare to the ogive on the factory ammo to verify you are not hard jammed causing pressure.
4) If you can scope barrel and chamber do so looking for signs of a machining problem.
3)If fired brass mic's ok and you feel it is safe to shoot go to range with a chronograph.
4) Fire and compare velocities and see where you are on the pressure vs velocity.
Your next steps will depend on what you find. I know its a pain to go through all this but we've probably all had to deal with this at some point.
1) get factory ammo mid weight for the caliber stay away from the really heavy long bullets for now in case it is a short throat and your previous attempts were jammed causing a pressure spike.
2) measure your previously fired brass and compare to specs for any abnormalities. If there is something strange stop and discuss with CA or another smith for remedy before going any further.
3)If you can check your throat for jam do so and compare to the ogive on the factory ammo to verify you are not hard jammed causing pressure.
4) If you can scope barrel and chamber do so looking for signs of a machining problem.
3)If fired brass mic's ok and you feel it is safe to shoot go to range with a chronograph.
4) Fire and compare velocities and see where you are on the pressure vs velocity.
Your next steps will depend on what you find. I know its a pain to go through all this but we've probably all had to deal with this at some point.
RockyMtnUT
Well-Known Member
You will be time and money ahead. I cant believe they are still in business. They produce **** poor chambers. Run reamers too long. The complaints are the same time after time.
