Is a stock Remington 700P .308 a 1000 yard gun?

[MudRunner2005]

Knowing my rifle and my ability I never doubted it. Having only shot to 800 yards, I wasn't sure if something magical happened between 800 and 1000 based on what the clown at the LGS stated.

If the rail sits flat I won't bed it.

Nothing magical happens between 800-1000, except maybe an extra wind channel or 2, lost velocty, and some bullet drop. But that's gonna happen with any caliber beyond 200 yards.

The guy at your local gun store sounded like a toolbag. I'd tell him to get bent. But that's just me. I'm not one of those guys who walks into a gunstore looking bewildered and needing help with a weapons purchase, like 85% of the yahoos that walk through the door. LOL When I worked for my local LGS (small business, not a corporation), I was amazed at some of the questions people would ask. I guess having grown up around guns and shooting them my entire life, you retain knowledge that you don't notice being any different, until you are talking to someone who was not grown up around them, and has no clue where to start... It's crazy some of the questions you will get. But, just like on here, I try to be helpful and unbiased and speak from life experiences....But alot of supporter type folks don't seem to grasp what I'm saying in that I'm not putting down their stuff, I'm just telling you what I've seen.

But to tell you that I'm not biased towards Remington 700's.....Well.....That would be a lie, b/c the 700 is my first choice for a rifle action, and a Weatherby Mark V and Browning A-Bolt II are in a close tie for 2nd place. LOL

 

[Michael Eichele]

You can order a nightforce, badger, Seekins and so on....you're still going to have a gap.

Personally, I do not install the rear screws at all when bedding. I torque the front to 15in pounds and float the rear. After things dry, then I torque the rear. I also find JB to work ok but is soft. Marine Tex is much harder.

I have competition arrows that are within .0015" straight. I lay those across the top of the rail before and after bedding. You can definitely tell when they are bowed and when they are straight.

While I still use a bit of shoe polish, I also include a thin layer of Pam cooking spray. Things have released MUCH easier since. I cut very small squares of scotch tape to place over the holes. The action must be very clean to stick. Then I shove q tips in the rail holes from the top and cut the excess of the bottom with a razor blade. I cut them flush with the bottom if the rail.

 

[kcebcj]

Bedding instead of shimming? Bedding seems more accurate (conforming exactly), shimming more durable and stable. Not nearly as messy either.

Is JB weld really durable enough?

I think I just hijacked my own thread!

I've talked about this before. The only way to mount a rail on any factory receiver is to start with a quality rail and in my simple world that would be a Seekins rail built by Glen Seekins of Lewiston Idaho or a Near rail built by Richard Near of Near Mfg. Both are dead nuts perfect.


The second part is a rifle smith with the tools that knows what he's doing. My smith briefly explained the process to me but I have not stood there and watched him nor do I want to. Talented people need to be left to do their thing. The rifle is jigged up in a mill so the rifle is true the way he wants it then the receiver is checked with a dial indicator for trueness. He then fits the rail to the receiver making whatever corrections necessary to the receiver. He checks the alignment of the rail with the dial indicator making it true and aligned with the rifle the way he wants it during the bedding process.

Once the rail is mounted "perfectly" a good set of rings again Seekins, Near and also Vortex rings are built by Seekins should be used. Done correctly with quality products the rings should not have to be lapped nor will there be any ring marks when the scope is removed. Now you can mount that 1000-3000 dollar scope and not worry about tweaking it.

 

[goattman]

ME, if there is a gap, that is exactly what I will do.

In regard to guy at LGS tling me my 700 wouldn't be adequate as a 1000 yd rifle, I figured I would wait till I shot 1000 yds then let my target speak for me. Much more powerful statement.

 

[goattman]

Jim, the problem is finding a quality rifle smith. As is true in most trades, it is hard to find someone who truly cares. So many are hacks. Which is why I do all my own work on firearms or anything. I always say "A jack of all trades with attention to detail is better than a master of one with none..." I'm sure there are many with abilities beyond mine. Many without. I am not willing to risk finding out on my rifle. It may take me longer and cost me more, but I am satisfied with the outcome or I do it again till I am.
Finally, if it doesn't work right, I only have one person to blame.

 

[goattman]

So, my NF 20MOA rail arrived. Removed the old, low and behold the new fit with no space between the rail and receiver. No more Weaver for me. Now I need a one piece rail for a Savage 99.

Anyone interested in a Weaver 0 MOA or 20 MOA rail? "4 sale cheap"!