Hard bolt pull?

[YZ-80]

He's Dbag. He'd be a good moving target.

He's probably working on Volume 2 of "Reloading for Elitists"

 

[L.Sherm]

Sad thing is if he was 6.5Bee that means hes snuck in the back door and will probably do it again.

 

[milo-2]

He was turning this place into "The View"!

Is there a certain cast member he reminded you of?
Things always get interesting in a "solve my problem" thread though.

 

[blueprairiedog]

Is there a certain cast member he reminded you of?
Things always get interesting in a "solve my problem" thread though.

Sometimes it's like a tv drama maybe we could call it as the bolt turns. I just kidding I try to be nice even if I disagree with people in public

 

[KS Shooter2021]

I thank you all for your intelligent and thoughtful comments, even if there are differences of opinion and experiences. I am learning a tremendous amount just by reading these forums.

And my philosophy is to block anyone who uses "OMG"......enough said.

I now fully understand and appreciate
the popcorn meme.

 

[DWier]

Sometimes it's like a tv drama maybe we could call it as the bolt turns. I just kidding I try to be nice even if I disagree with people in public

As the bolt CLICKS!!

 

[26Reload]

The Clicks Of Our Lives

 

[codyadams]

Now the only question is, what will be the new name of the resurected Phoenix??? Ha ha. Just look for a new member starting drama.

And to YZ, you likely have all the info you need, but I'll add. I recently had my rem 700 sent to LRI to fix primary extraction, it was almost non existent in my RR prefix trued 700. On the 4th firing of peterson brass, same thing. Would have to tap the bolt handle to extract the round from the chamber. However, the primary extraction had so little rearward movement it was hardly noticeable on bolt lift. Now, there is a huge amount of rearward movement with bolt lift, and the problem is fixed.

 

[L.Sherm]

What action is your Delta 5 built on? If it's a 700 I would definitely look at the primary extraction especially if it's a RR series.
There should be .005-.010 between the bridge and bolt handle, my RR that my 30-28 was built on had .056 virtually zero primary extraction.

 

[YZ-80]

What action is your Delta 5 built on? If it's a 700 I would definitely look at the primary extraction especially if it's a RR series.
There should be .005-.010 between the bridge and bolt handle, my RR that my 30-28 was built on had .056 virtually zero primary extraction.

Hi Sherm,

It's a proprietary action, 3 lug design (basically a Sako clone).

Best,

YZ

 

[L.Sherm]

Well you would think they got the primary extraction figured out then.

 

[antelopedundee]

Guys,

I got my Delta 5 shooting pretty good with the 6.5 CRDM barrel. Today at the range, however I had a bit of an issue on occasion pulling the bolt back. No heavy lift. It would happen about every 3rd or 4th round. I'm running 4th cycle gunwerks brass and I'm bumping .002 to 1.504" on the Sinclair comparator. No signs of pressure on the brass, no cratered primers, etc. Headspace is good. This is a 37.2 grain charge under a 143 ELD-X and I'm .003 off the lands. I'm wondering what gives? I have a theory that maybe the neck turning striations have created more friction in the throat upon expansion but I didn't have any loads that were un-turned to test this theory. Maybe that or dirty bolt raceways or mortises? Any ideas? It didn't seem to do this as a .308. Thanks in advance for any insight.

Neck turning striations have nothing to do with the throat. You can smooth the turned neck out with steel wool if you think it would help.

 

[Blackhawk]

Guys,

I got my Delta 5 shooting pretty good with the 6.5 CRDM barrel. Today at the range, however I had a bit of an issue on occasion pulling the bolt back. No heavy lift. It would happen about every 3rd or 4th round. I'm running 4th cycle gunwerks brass and I'm bumping .002 to 1.504" on the Sinclair comparator. No signs of pressure on the brass, no cratered primers, etc. Headspace is good. This is a 37.2 grain charge under a 143 ELD-X and I'm .003 off the lands. I'm wondering what gives? I have a theory that maybe the neck turning striations have created more friction in the throat upon expansion but I didn't have any loads that were un-turned to test this theory. Maybe that or dirty bolt raceways or mortises? Any ideas? It didn't seem to do this as a .308. Thanks in advance for any insight.
[/QUO
This is my procedure!
After I deprime my brass , I tumble my brass in steel pin media for 1 hour.
This is done in order to just clean my brass.
Now I Fl Resize and bump my shoulders back -.002. using the Redding body die and competition shell holder set.
Next I trim my brass to length.
Now only on Virgin Brass will I neck turn to a -.0002" -.0005" .( established using micrometers )
Here is where I differ.
I neck turn under power !
I use Mobil 1 5-20 weight .oil as a lubricant while neck turning ( Just a drop from an eye dropper placed on the brass neck is sufficient )
Wipe my brass clean.
Place in tumbler for 1 - 1 1/2 hours.
Proceed as normal with your reloading.
Two things help smooth my turned necks.
1) Neck Turning under power will leave a smoother finish than neck turning by hand.
2) Any small chatter lines caused by turning will usually be eliminated or diminished by tumbling.
I know that this is just another step, however I want my hand loads to perform as well as they look.
I will tell you this neck turning under power with added lubrication, followed by tumbling in steel pin media will result in cases that you would have to look under a glass in order to determine if they have been turned or not.
Even if you neck turn your cases by hand the use of a lubricant such as Mobil 1 followed by tumbling with steel pin media will smooth out your cases necks appearance.
OBTW I do FL resize my brass again before continuing on with my reloading.
Extra work ? Certainly
More time spent on hand loading ? Sure !
End result worth it? In my book Yes!
I hope this may help you !

 

[Blackhawk]

Try a set of Redding competition shell holders you can reduce the sizing while still making contact with the base of the die

Yes I agree.
I myself use the Redding Competition Shell Holder Set in conjunction with the Redding Body Die ( both must be caliber specific )
In this manner you can kill two birds with one stone.
1) Bump your brass shell case to a minus .002" dimension.
2) Actually full length your case along almost its entire length ( actually right on the case head itself incrementally in .002" steps )
Number 2 is important in your case as in the Lee Factory Crimp Die which may help you out , the Redding setup will allow your cases to actually fit your chamber and bump your shoulder.
The Lee Factory crimp die will size your case only to your shell holder , while the Redding will allow you to size your case hulls deeper in. 002[' increments until your brass Cases will chamber smoothly. ( it comes with 5 numbered inserts ).
If you combine the correct shell holder with the body die you should never again experience this problem,
I must admit that perhaps I would purchase the Lee Factory Crimp die and try it first as this will be your cheapest option !
Without going into a long dissertation you can find all you need to know by consulting the Redding Reloading Catalog /Web site
Best Of luck