Scope Mounting

So……how does that affect your scope/eye relationship when bringing the rifle to your shoulder?

I always adjust my eye relief as to get full view in the scope at highest scope power setting when the rifle in position ……without moving my head to achieve full view in the scope. To get my proper clearance …..I close my eyes, shoulder the rifle, then open my eyes. If I do not have a full field of view….I repeat this process until I do. When finalizing the adjustment…..the final movements are less than 1/4". memtb
As I originally stated "when possible" although on a pic-rail it isn't that hard to do. Also hold the scope and mount forward in the rail slots so they too are supported against recoil.
 
All my scope mounting set-ups(whether 338ML or 6.5x47L) are mounted in a similar same fashion:..regardless of the brand of scope/ring/base…. I prefer as much surface area(rings to scope body as the mounting dimensions will accommodate(especially with heavy recoil/use rifles) , a pic-rail base/rings(best quality components/scope I can afford), and a torque wrench! Heavy calibers often need up-sized base mount screws fitted..or get pinned.
-All components assembled are checked for alignment and mated surfaces using a basic scope alignment/lapping tool( the lapping tool can be used to "check" scope/ring contact area of +75%. Don't take anything for granted! Everything must be perfectly mated/aligned…
-Scope base is bedded/stress free(or pinned) if there us any clearance/off-set with Devcon(24 hour). Torque to maximum spec. My preference is to not use Loctite on the mounting screws…If properly cleaned mated/torqued, "lightly" lubricated screw will secure equally/better under spec'd torque. IME, ANY foreign material(rosin, Loctite, etc,) can invite clearance issuers under recoil stresses. Metal to metal……
- If bottom ring contact area(using the scope mount bar) is less then 75% they are lapped. Don't take this aspect for granted…check.
-Torque scope rings to maximum allowable spec from scope/ring manufacturer….Same with the rings to scope base. Do not exceed!

6,5x284 with epoxied base, and 300WM with pinned base. Both, ARC M10 rings…scope/ring max torque spec is 25"/pds.
View attachment 640592View attachment 640594
Isn't the torque value for ARC rings 55 inch lbs?
 
First thing I would do is contact Hawkins and see what they say. They make great products and if there is an issue they will get it taken care of. Another thing I always do when mounting scopes is to clean both surfaces with 99% Alcohol where the rings and tube mate.
Best advice of the thread.
When we have scopes moving in a rifle, and it's really really rare, we find the problem. I don't like bandaids.
Never loc-tited ring caps in any Ultra Mags/Lapua Mags. But I have seen a ring set or two out of spec.
Sometimes mechanically zeroing your scope and using a grid pattern bore sighter will show out of spec rings. Not necessarily the reason it's slipping of course, but a ring that's off axis is not helping for sure.
 
With conventional rings I've put a piece of cellophane tape on both ring halves. I did this to avoid
marring the scope, but I figured I was also getting a bit of a "rubbery gaskety" gripping effect too.
 
I'm going to disagree with this statement. The torque has no way of knowing whether the threads are lubricated or not. The OPERATOR of the torque wrench needs to adjust the torque value based on the thread conditions. If the mfg gives a spec that is for clean, dry threads then the operator needs to look up what the lubricated torque spec for those threads is supposed to be. It will be less.

To the OP, I'd start with the mfg of the rings before you make any alterations. If they've got a problem in their process they need to know about it. If you get no relief there, then I would suggest either lapping the rings or bedding the rings on the scope. Both will get you to the right place, up to you which to use.
It's been debunked. Setting a pertange off is not accurate to get a legit torque value. Many of oil and trans pans have been stripped because of that.

On a dyno 16:40
 
Personally...I'd try another set of rings first, and if they hold get your money back on the other set!
I kind of been wanting to say this. For $300+ bedding shouldn't be the solution. I've had $100 scope rings not move in magnums that I've never had to lap or bed.

If it were me, id be ****ed. Assuming it wasn't something else like the rings being too loose.
 
I had an issue recently with one of my rifles and the point of impact shift and terrible groups. The rifle originally shot great groups with my reloads and factory 212 ELD-X but then all of a sudden went gunny bag. Went from 1/2 MOA at 100 yards to about 3-1/2 MOA at 100 yards. The rifle only has about 50 rounds down the tube. I checked everything on my rifle to make sure the screws were tight on the action, the rings and bases and that the barrel was free floating etc. Couldn't find anything out of the ordinary. I finally sent the scope back to Nightforce thinking it had to be the issue. I received the call today that it was not the scope as the scope checked out fine and is on its way back but they did say by the looks of the marks on the scope they felt it might be moving in the rings.

McWhorters 300 PRC 215 Bergers @2907 FPS
Nightforce ATACR 5-25 x 56
Hawkins One Piece Rings and Bases

I need some input as to the best way to secure the scope in the rings as tightening the screws to the required torque specs apparently does not hold the scope tight enough. I have never run into this issue so just looking for some wisdom.

Thanks in advance.
I'd check everything in your loading process. 3.5 MOA seems like an awful lot of change.
 
I kind of been wanting to say this. For $300+ bedding shouldn't be the solution. I've had $100 scope rings not move in magnums that I've never had to lap or bed.

If it were me, id be ****ed. Assuming it wasn't something else like the rings being too loose.
Well you "kinda" just did!😊 And good on you...makes no sense to me to Bed rings...like everything else...it works...or it doesn't and not going to go to lengths to fix a manufacturing problem..... especially when paying top dollar for the item.
 
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