Scope Mounting

[mudflap621]

First thing I would do is contact Hawkins and see what they say. They make great products and if there is an issue they will get it taken care of. Another thing I always do when mounting scopes is to clean both surfaces with 99% Alcohol where the rings and tube mate.

 

[tim1457]

I buy Burris Xtreme Tactical scope rings for all my big caliber rifle's, 6 screws per ring. I've never had an issue even with my 50bmg and Nightforce scope.

 

[Shane Lindsey]

I have used a drop of blue locktite in the rings before. Just a small drop and smear it with a q-tip along the bottom. Just leave a gap around the edge, so it doesn't squish out.

Had a set of Talley one pieces that came unbuttoned so have little confidence in them.

 

[Greyfox]

All my scope mounting set-ups(whether 338ML or 6.5x47L) are mounted in a similar same fashion:..regardless of the brand of scope/ring/base…. I prefer as much surface area(rings to scope body as the mounting dimensions will accommodate(especially with heavy recoil/use rifles) , a pic-rail base/rings(best quality components/scope I can afford), and a torque wrench! Heavy calibers often need up-sized base mount screws fitted..or get pinned.
-All components assembled are checked for alignment and mated surfaces using a basic scope alignment/lapping tool( the lapping tool can be used to "check" scope/ring contact area of +75%. Don't take anything for granted! Everything must be perfectly mated/aligned…
-Scope base is bedded/stress free(or pinned) if there us any clearance/off-set with Devcon(24 hour). Torque to maximum spec. My preference is to not use Loctite on the mounting screws…If properly cleaned mated/torqued, "lightly" lubricated screw will secure equally/better under spec'd torque. IME, ANY foreign material(rosin, Loctite, etc,) can invite clearance issuers under recoil stresses. Metal to metal……
- If bottom ring contact area(using the scope mount bar) is less then 75% they are lapped. Don't take this aspect for granted…check.
-Torque scope rings to maximum allowable spec from scope/ring manufacturer….Same with the rings to scope base. Do not exceed!

6,5x284 with epoxied base, and 300WM with pinned base. Both, ARC M10 rings…scope/ring max torque spec is 25"/pds.

 

[Varmint Hunter]

All of these suggestions assume that Nightforce was actually correct. With the tiny bit of movement that "may" have occurred, I wouldn't think that you'd see 3.5" of impact deviation at 100yds.

If it was a ring issue, I'd contact Hawkins before I did anything. I've used all kinds of rings and never had a scope slip, even with heavy recoiling rifles. Personally, I think the Burris rings, with self-aligning inserts, are hard to beat. Their 3-screw tactical model is built stout, but I've never had an issue with their standard Signature Zee rings.

Good luck and keep us posted as to what resolves the accuracy issue.

 

[Brathany]

Went all my life not knowing about wet mounting the base to the rail until this past month I've seen it mentioned on two Youtube channels and about 3 forum posts! LOL.

I primarily run ARC rings which are a breeze for scope installation and distribute the pressure around the rings that calls for 50inch lbs. It sounds ridiculous high, but no issues at all with 4 sets I have. Best thing is the scope remains stationary after leveling while tightening the rings. No install then find out the scope shifted off level.

Burris signature rings with the plastic inserts are also a great option. Those inserts provide more grip than one would ever need.

 

[Beluebow]

Wet mounting seems to be the "new deal"............

 

[ntsqd]

snip.....
The blue loctite will act like a lubricant, so using a torque wrench with it wouldn't be advisable as it will effect the torque wrenches calibration as they are made for dry torque.

I'm going to disagree with this statement. The torque has no way of knowing whether the threads are lubricated or not. The OPERATOR of the torque wrench needs to adjust the torque value based on the thread conditions. If the mfg gives a spec that is for clean, dry threads then the operator needs to look up what the lubricated torque spec for those threads is supposed to be. It will be less.

To the OP, I'd start with the mfg of the rings before you make any alterations. If they've got a problem in their process they need to know about it. If you get no relief there, then I would suggest either lapping the rings or bedding the rings on the scope. Both will get you to the right place, up to you which to use.

 

[memtb]

A simple thing I do when possible is to slide the scope forward so the turret block is against the forward ring. Under recoil the scope tries to stay in place and rifle moves to the rear, mounting it against the forward ring stops that possibility.

So……how does that affect your scope/eye relationship when bringing the rifle to your shoulder?

I always adjust my eye relief as to get full view in the scope at highest scope power setting when the rifle in position ……without moving my head to achieve full view in the scope. To get my proper clearance …..I close my eyes, shoulder the rifle, then open my eyes. If I do not have a full field of view….I repeat this process until I do. When finalizing the adjustment…..the final movements are less than 1/4". memtb

 

[JAYgs8163]

If the scope is a Nightforce chances are you can torque a little past what the ring manufacturer states. I use NF rings on my NF scopes and torque to 25 in/lb and have not had any movement on 300 NMI, 338NMI or my buddies 300PRC.

I had slippage on 2 of my rigs and called NF and they advised to increase torque value and that there scopes can handle it. I run mine at 22-24 with no harm and no issues.

 

[med358-boise]

Before I did anything, I would remount them put a piece of cellophane tape on the scope tube on the front side of the ring and fire a few rounds to see if it is indeed slipping.

 

[woodneagle]

Wet mounting seems to be the "new deal"............

It should be noted that this is referring to the ring mounts to the rail, not the scope inside the rings.
From a hobby machinist point of view, there are these mating surfaces: rail or scope bases to receiver, and or ring mounts to the rail, and scope to the rings. When the rings are tightened around the scope, there needs to be the slightest gap between them and the scope base. Otherwise, the scope won't be secured no matter what torque is used. Brownells sells the Sinclair scope lapping tools, but currently out of stock. I would also "test" the flatness of the scope bases with a diamond plate resting on top to see if they are true. It should not wobble. JMO.

 

[med358-boise]

Wet mounting seems to be the "new deal"............

This is very interesting and worth watching to the end where he talks about screws..

I was going to reply to the this thread with for years Talley has recommend:

"A very light tiny amount of lubricant on your base and ring screws. Just put a drop of oil on your index finger tip, smear it with your thumb and roll the screw between you thumb and index finger before inserting and tightening the screw."

Note: Loctite cures when it is in the threads and deprived of oxygen; hence, it looses it lubricity qualities. I personally have never used loctite on any scope screws and always use the tiny bit of oil approach and never had an issue.

If any body needs a small amount of rosin, let me know I will mail you some. The jar I bought from brownells still has a lifetime supply in it.

 

[Philward]

A simple thing I do when possible is to slide the scope forward so the turret block is against the forward ring. Under recoil the scope tries to stay in place and rifle moves to the rear, mounting it against the forward ring stops that possibility.

I don't think you should do this, scope manufacturers say not too, and like @memtb says how do you ensure correct eye relief. I guess on a rail you have more choices. I always mount with clear space between rings and turrets and the bell and mag adjustment ring.