Bullets Getting Stuck In Barrel

So awhile back I bought a used pre-fit barrel off here for my Bighorn Origin. I was told its a Krieger 1:7.5 twist 6mm Creedmoor. I torqued it on my action, checked headspace and zeroed it and everything shot fine. Using all factory ammo Hornady Black 105, Hornady Match 108 ELD-M, VMax 87, and even ELD-X 103 I have had 5 different issues with the bullets getting lodged in the chamber before firing. The bolt will close most of the time but then pulls out the brass and leaves the bullet whenever if try to open it back up. The ELD-x i never could even get the bolt to close at all.

Is this a Hornady issue or is this barrel jacked up?
 
I have a couple of rifles that are chambered with a bit shorter throat so the lands are a bit closer to the ogive on VLD shaped projectiles. The section of the bullet ahead of the ogive is much longer so to fit them in a short action you often have to seat them a bit deeper to achieve the OAL you need to fit them in your magazine. When you do this you push the ogive back closer to the case neck. If you want the ogive close to the lands, they have to throat the free bore area a bit shorter. When you ordered your barrel, did you by chance specify that you would be shooting custom loads, or specifically VLDs? If you try to chamber a round with a shorter fatter bullet profile that is seated further out, I can see how it might contact the lands in this case. I wouldnt expect to happen with the light projectiles you mention, but maybe?? If you change to a long range hunting round, I would bet it would solve your problem. A bit harder to find in pre loaded ammo but not too hard. Generally these are going to be heavier projectiles though, not the varmint vmax variants. I see you mentioned trying ELDMs did you see the same problem with those?
 
Need to back way off and work up again to shoot with the bullet touching the lands. Not really worth doing for hunting. For one rifle I do both with I use a Wilson inline bullet seater with or without a washer. That rifle needs to go to a gunsmith if it was headspaced with a go and no go gauge.
 
Since the OP said it was a used prefit I tend to think the chamber was cut with the older (pre saami) spec reamer. Those ran with a .275 neck and a shorter freebore then the current sammi spec reamer. Either way like others have said get it to a smith.
Oh that's good thinking. I didn't realize there were two different sets of specs. That would explain a lot.
 
Need to back way off and work up again to shoot with the bullet touching the lands. Not really worth doing for hunting. For one rifle I do both with I use a Wilson inline bullet seater with or without a washer. That rifle needs to go to a gunsmith if it was headspaced with a go and no go gauge.
Again, he's stated this is all with factory ammo!
 
Since you are not reloading and these are all factory rounds, that rifle needs to go to a gunsmith ASAP. I don't think that I would try shooting it at all. I guess I'm just a suspicious person, I was a cop/detective for a number of decades, but why was the barrel sold in the first place. Whatever the reason, I would not shoot it until a qualified gunsmith goes over it.
 
I have never fired it when I noticed the bolt was not closing, but a couple times when it happened was while hunting and I cycled the bolt in a hurry.

*no reloads have been loaded into it, everything has been factory Hornady
Not bashing Hornady here…Check the OAL on your factory ammo. Sort'em out shortest to longest. Take one from each group, test for easy chambering. If the long won't go in easy, then there's your number. Don't use your bolt as a seating die as it chafes the lugs and seating area creating a whole new set of problems. HTH
 
I have never fired it when I noticed the bolt was not closing, but a couple times when it happened was while hunting and I cycled the bolt in a hurry.

*no reloads have been loaded into it, everything has been factory Hornady
You have a bbl problem. Maybe that's why it was for sale.
Going to take a gunsmith to check chamber & throat. May can be fixed by lengthening the throat.
Stop shooting it until fixed
 
You have a bbl problem. Maybe that's why it was for sale.
Going to take a gunsmith to check chamber & throat. May can be fixed by lengthening the throat.
Stop shooting it until fixed
OP: If you purchased from a member here, please contact them. Not likely it was "unknown".

Perhaps not intentional lack of disclosure, but this community is reliant on honesty and transparency in order for the integrity of the community to continue.

ETA: regardless of where you bought it is worth contacting original owner.
 
Since the OP said it was a used prefit I tend to think the chamber was cut with the older (pre saami) spec reamer.

As stated above, there are still a bunch of different 6 Creedmoor reamers out there which much shorter throats. If you didn't buy the pre-fit you don't know for certain which reamer was used. A shorter throat could been requested. All pre-fits are not SAAMI chambers.

Have the throat lengthened. It's real easy to do yourself with a uni-throater if you're so inclined.
 
When I built my PRC, it was chambered w/ 0.155 free bore. I reload. I measured OAL and CBTO for several projectiles after the build to set up my reloading. Factory Hornady ammo, both 143X and 145M would jam. Just barely, but it would. Your smith can pull the barrel, run a throat reamer, and reinstall in about 30 minutes. Most have free bore gauges they can check your factory ammo with to see how much more you need. I would guess at least 0.050 but could be more. Possibly someone you know has a comparator and bullets for the 6CM to measure and help out.
 
I had the same issue with my build. The Hornady ammo would jam into the lands and the bullet would stick and then the same mess you have would follow. No fault of the smith, barrel or the Hornady factory ammo. There are a few different reamers out there for the 6CM. The reamer used on mine was designed for the 105/115 Bergers. The Hornady ogive is farther out than the Bergers and causes this issue when using this reamer. Ask the seller of the barrel what reamer was used and then ask if he has the specs for it. It's easy to fix if you have a chamber mod done to a SAMMI spec chamber. I reload and was only shooting this factory ammo to break the barrel in.
 
This is a real easy situation to remedy if you are the type of person that reloads and has learned to use a uni-throater(very easy to do). If you're a casual shooter and only us factory ammo, stick to factory guns. Learning basics like mounting scopes, torquing on barrels, installing triggers, tuning magazines, loading ammo, measuring throats, etc can make a situation like this a Tuesday night 30 min project and avoid the, "Dangerous! Get it to a gunsmith ASAP" panics.
 

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