BULLET STUCK IN BBL in the field

l had a bullet get stuck in the barrel/cylinder of my 44 S&W revolver a few years back. Locked the gun up and was unable to open or unload the cylinder... Fortunately l was with a competent machinist on this range trip.. Back in his shop we were able to remove the bullet and ammo from the gun without damage to gun or selves using a piece of 3/8'' dia nylon rod... HE wrapped the barrel with a piece of thick leather before chucking into a vise. He then gently tapped the cast lead bullet back in the case... We were then able to open the cylinder and remove the rounds from the cylinder... There was unburned powder in the cylinder and barrel... To this day l still am not sure what caused the misfire/squib... Best guess was a piece of tumbling media lodged in the flash hole causing incomplete ignition of powder...
That stuck bullet caused me to check each flash hole with a decapping rod after tumbling brass... That nylon rod is also with me on each and every trip to the range...
I had that happen with my model 29 at a range. The primer ignited but the powder didn't. Don't know why. I had my tool kit with me, and I found a 9mm casing. I dropped the casing down the barrel and used a long shafted screwdriver with a blade that fit inside the casing to drive the bullet out of the barrel. The 9mm casing couldn't score the barrel, and the casing protected the barrel from the screwdriver. I cleaned the powder out of the revolver and continued my range session. But I always keep a tool kit with me when I hunt or go shooting. Because you never know. By the way, I still have and shoot the Model 29.
 
I had that happen with my model 29 at a range. The primer ignited but the powder didn't. Don't know why. I had my tool kit with me, and I found a 9mm casing. I dropped the casing down the barrel and used a long shafted screwdriver with a blade that fit inside the casing to drive the bullet out of the barrel. The 9mm casing couldn't score the barrel, and the casing protected the barrel from the screwdriver. I cleaned the powder out of the revolver and continued my range session. But I always keep a tool kit with me when I hunt or go shooting. Because you never know. By the way, I still have and shoot the Model 29.
Seems like not as uncommon as you might think for h110/296 loads without a magnum primer if you are on castboolits forum. Usually 4th or 5th shot in cylinder. The round had a lighter crimp and may have backed out a smidge, then the primer pushes the bullet and powder out without full ignition. Was written about in some reloading literature to have more roll crimp with cast bullets since they slipped easier than jacketed giving exactly this situation.
 
Seems like not as uncommon as you might think for h110/296 loads without a magnum primer if you are on castboolits forum. Usually 4th or 5th shot in cylinder. The round had a lighter crimp and may have backed out a smidge, then the primer pushes the bullet and powder out without full ignition. Was written about in some reloading literature to have more roll crimp with cast bullets since they slipped easier than jacketed giving exactly this situation.
It only happened once, back in 1979, and I was using IMR 4227. I pulled the trigger, got a boom, pulled the trigger, got a boom, pulled the trigger and got a shoop. Shoop? That's not supposed to happen. When I opened the cylender, Powder fell out along with a casing with a fired primer. I think maybe the powder got damp, though how is beyond me. I had about 100 rounds loaded with the same powder from the same can, they all worked.
 
I've had squib loads in a pistol stick bullets. One in the field I drove out with a philips screwdriver. I don't recommend this, but I had a revolver with the bullet stuck halfway between the cylinder and barrel, and a wounded bear that needed finished off and was back in a rock hole where you couldn't physically fit a rifle. I carefully stuck the philips head in the hollowpoint of the XTP bullet and tapped on it.

Also did it a few years ago with a 22lr. Wintertime and bullets riding around in my pants pocket, I suspect the powder got wet. Actually managed to push that one out with a cable antenna from a dogs tracking collar. The antenna was plastic coated so it wouldn't hurt the rifling and 16" long. So was the barrel. Bullet was about a third of the way down the barrel, it was hard to get moving with a chunk of cable but once I got it going it went pretty good until I got to that last half inch, that was a real bugger.
 
Many years ago I "smithed" during my "off" time from flying for uncle Sams flying club. I would say that tumbling media in a flash hole accounted for at least 60 percent of the stuck bullets I removed. I really like clean cases too, but media in the case or flash hole will really mess up your reloads. I visually check every round once all the prep is done and I have a small drill shank to check the flash channel after visual inspection. Most of the guns brought to me to clear a stuck bullet were just the bullet; although a number were stuck cases as well. Several guys brought me the gun with the bolt still in the gun and the bolt handle in their sweaty palms and wanted the gun cleared and the handle repaired. I have six different aluminum rods in various sizes in my shop still for that very purpose. A cleaning rod will do just fine if it is a bullet and a tap of the butt doesn't remove it. 90 per cent of the time that works, and if not I have several one piece cleaning rods that I drop (DROP, do not pound, its the energy transfer that does the work) down the barrel from about a foot above. The drop technique sometimes takes a number of repeats but has never failed me. As a young kid raised on a remote ranch I was taught that if it doesn't sound or feel right, don't shoot it until it can be PROVEN functional. I always pack two rifles on any hunt, sometimes more, and yes many young guys laugh at me, but they are usually good natured enough to help me load my deer, elk or whatever. My wife has declared that I can't hunt alone anymore, that I have to be accompanied by adult supervision, which translates to a grandson or son in law, right?
 
TONY D I know where your coming from and I certainly get the decision to play it safe in this situation What I find incredible is the number of knowledgable people who have responded to my question with so many different yes or no answers and some in between! Most of the responses use a lot of common sense and yet disagree. I think this is rare on a site with so many competent people as this one Don't misunderstand, the last thing I am doing is complaining. I really appreciate all of the responses. I did not expect this question to generate this much interest. Could it be that maybe there is not really a right or wrong or yes or no answer because sometimes this could work but other times could cause damage or injury? That could explain the differences of opinion among so many firearm educated people. Also, it could be that some know that it was a workable idea but did not want to get involved in the legality of the safety factor? I really get worried when a guy like J E says he actually works on repairs to guns where this has been tried. Well I think we could go for page 7 but I don't feel like everyone is going to agree on this one. THANKS.....BUD
Bud sir,
I was not trying to make the definitive answer, I was stating 'my' opinion and providing an answer I believed, and believe is safe. I am not a chemist or an explosives expert, yet I try to be safe. There are many different opinions and all have value and can be learned from.
Back before I retired, part of my job was ensuring that all federal and state, or country, (depending on where I was consulting or designing) safety rules were followed on machinery the company I worked for made. I found a finger which had been removed by carelessness, it was taken to be reattached. I was part of a few investigations where workers had been killed or severely mauled by machinery, all were in countries other than the United States of America excepting one.
I worked on teams to help prevent such 'accidents', whether by mechanical, electrical or programming methods. Does this justify my paranoia? No, it merely gives me a different set of experiences to view life through.

All men will make their own decisions to guide their thoughts and actions.

Best to you, and all readers and posters,
May we always be safe, accurate and enjoy life, and as is said, "Keep your stick on the ice"
tony
 
Bud sir,
I was not trying to make the definitive answer, I was stating 'my' opinion and providing an answer I believed, and believe is safe. I am not a chemist or an explosives expert, yet I try to be safe. There are many different opinions and all have value and can be learned from.
Back before I retired, part of my job was ensuring that all federal and state, or country, (depending on where I was consulting or designing) safety rules were followed on machinery the company I worked for made. I found a finger which had been removed by carelessness, it was taken to be reattached. I was part of a few investigations where workers had been killed or severely mauled by machinery, all were in countries other than the United States of America excepting one.
I worked on teams to help prevent such 'accidents', whether by mechanical, electrical or programming methods. Does this justify my paranoia? No, it merely gives me a different set of experiences to view life through.

All men will make their own decisions to guide their thoughts and actions.

Best to you, and all readers and posters,
May we always be safe, accurate and enjoy life, and as is said, "Keep your stick on the ice"
tony
We have something in common I attended the USC Ground and Flight Safety Management and Investigations Schools in the seventies but I also have degrees in Chemistry and Zoology. I was a Test Pilot in the Air Force for awhile, and was the lead investigator or board president on 11 major accident investigations 10 of which were aircraft; including one inflight collision between a civilian aircraft and an Air Force airplane (Which did not kill anyone!). I also have extensive education, both private and government, in the use, handling and storage of explosives. I have participated in testing and design of new propellants for military rotary canons. Playing with gunpowder in an iffy situation is UNGOOD. In short, it's not worth the Risk!! Your time in safety probably was somehow coupled with the moniker of "Risk Management", no one wants to call it Corporate Safety in the HR and PR ranks of most any large company. And lastly, your paranoia is healthy, just remember what a fairly well know Psychiatrist one told me, "just because you're paranoid doesn't mean little green men aren't trying to capture you for their experiment." (Ah yes, I had to visit with him because I had been called on by ARTCC to intercept a UFO, which proved to be something else and was classified. A typical no win; eyes not good enough to see what we did on radar....send him for an eye test, you did see something but you can't or won't tell us what it was....send him to a shrink.) I tend like you to be conservatively safe.
 
I'm not reading all the way to the end of this but I had a 22-250 that this happened with a few times. I just pulled a bullet with a leatherman, chambered the case with the FULL powder charge and shot the rifle-several times killing a deer. I eventually quit loading them so long and problem solved.
 
I have seen references on this forum to getting a bullet stuck in the bbl when the bullet has been seated out to far into or touching the lands. I have never had this happen to me even though for many years I carried my BDL REM 22-250 in the field while searching for brave groundhogs that lived along railroad tracks out in the country. I always seated my silver tips touching the lands and never thought about getting a bullet dislodged and stuck. Maybe just lucky.The point of my post is to mention a technique that was brought to my attention a while back and get opinions on whether or not it works and would be a safe procedure. If no rod to dislodge a stuck bullet while hunting, remove a bullet from one of your spare rounds and trickle a small amount of powder into the chamber of the opened rifle. Now SPILL OUT THE REMAINING POWDER FROM THE CASING ONTO THE GROUND. Insert the EMPTY, live-primered ,CASING back into the chamber if it will fit. CLOSE the bolt and fire the rifle< This should dislodge the bullet to clear the end of the barrel. DOES THIS WORK?? Could save a hunt!.....BUD
They pop right out with a minor tap of a cleaning rod. Why risk anything else.
 
First post on this forum. I've read a few pages of the posts on this topic but not all.

Before I start out hunting I check my barrel is clear then put a strip of electrical adhesive tape over the muzzle to keep out any possible sand, snow, mud, water or bugs from the barrel. The tape will blow off when you take a shot, I have not found it affect the shot or accuracy. If concerned check it out at the range first, if it does affect have an affect it doesn't take long to rip it off before and it could save you or you'r gun from damage. A new bit can be stuck on before you start hunting again.

I was hunting with a borrowed rifle in Finnish Lapp-land above the Arctic circle it was about -25C or -22F. It was about a full days walk back to the car I'd slipped and fallen and decided to check zero. The third shot sounded odd. I pointed the rifle at the ground and held the bolt and breech away from my face for about two minutes then keeping the rifle in that position I opened the bolt. (Worst thing you can do is to look at the breech and open the bolt to see what is going on as if there is any smouldering powder and fresh air gets to it can ignite and burn your face or blind you.) The case ejected and I could see the barrel was blocked and the only tools I had were an axe and a knife. It was about 1/3 of a days walk back to the camp then a further day back o the car so I made a fire to keep warm then using some of the unused firewood I made two rods about 16 inches long which just fitted the bore and warmed the barrel slightly in case of ice and tapped out the bullet from the muzzle. Then cleaned the barrel with some toilet paper, checked the rifle for damage, re-zeroed.

I now carry a screw together rod and cleaning kit just in case of a stuck bullet/obstruction and as others have said always tap it out from the muzzle end just in case. You don't always know what caused the obstruction, it could be another bullet (ie you could have two bullets stuck up there or a plug of mud or ice plus a bullet) so if you try and blast it out you could wreck yourself or your gun. Personally I value my hands, eyes or gun more than the small inconvenience of carrying a cleaning kit and some electrical tape and losing an hours hunting.

Rob
 
I'm not reading all the way to the end of this but I had a 22-250 that this happened with a few times. I just pulled a bullet with a leatherman, chambered the case with the FULL powder charge and shot the rifle-several times killing a deer. I eventually quit loading them so long and problem solved.
With a 22-250, you might not blow up your gun, but doing this might still bulge the barrel. It might also cause the brass to fail at the head of the casing and blow powder back into the bolt and your face. I think you got lucky. Don't do it with a heavy bullet. Don't do it any more anyway.
 
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