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beginner turkey hunter questions

If your #3 shot is steel, that would probably be a good choice. In Calif we have to use steel and I use #2 duck loads. We limit our shots to 30 yds. 40 yds is a long turkey shot!! In the springtime, i think most states only allow you to take toms, so a jake decoy and a couple of hens would help to bring them in. My son-in-law uses a box call that you push spring loaded scrapers against the slate and it sounds much better than my slate call, especially the purr. We also use small pop up blinds with chairs that make it comfortable to sit for a couple of hours at a time. If you can find the roost tree, we like to set up about 150 to 200 yds away on their path to water.
 
I have never turkey hunted before but this year I have the opportunity to try it. I have done lots of hunting for big game but where I live you have to draw a permit to hunt turkeys and this is the first year I have ever drawn a permit. I have a 12 gauge but it only 2 3/4 and the biggest shot I have for it is #3. Is this enough for a turkey? What kind of range should I shoot with this set up? I know these are horrible questions but this is a little out of my realm. When I found out I drew the permit I started looking for bigger shot but it seems impossible to find. Thanks for any advice.
You got a lot of sound advice here. I first started out turkey hunting in my home state of Md 35yrs ago. All I had was 2 3/4" 12ga pump with a mod choke 28" barrel. #2 shot did just fine. When I got a 3" 12 ga with a full choke barrel I used #4 Turkey loads - copper-coated lead shot. That did great. When I finally got a 3.5" 12ga with a super full turkey choke, I still used the #4 Turkey loads. Get a DVD or watch some youtube videos on how to use a mouth/diaphragm call & a box & friction calls & learn how to use them, & what sounds/calls to use for what...ie; learn their language. HUGE HELP. If you can, go out the night before scouting. Use a crow call or an owl call - SHOCK calls to get them to sound off when they are roosted at dark so you can plan where to effectively set up in the morning. CAMO & MOVEMENT ARE VERY IMPORTANT! Theres an old country saying regarding the wild turkey - they can hear you think & see you change your mind. I'd have to say theres some merit to that. I live in the heart of Osceola country now. I have flocks of over 50 sometimes all around the house & in our fields almost daily. They gather outside my blue & gold macaws cage window to eat all her leftovers in her bowl when I throw it out so she yells at them & talks to them. They dont know what the hell to think. Its funny. Best of luck. I fell madly in love from my very first turkey hunt. It still brings out the young excitable man in me every time. I use decoys too. Learn how to set them up right too. Another big help.
 
All good advice....as has been repeated often...PATTERN YOUR GUN. Get a turkey choke for your 12ga. and I would strongly encourage a set of hi viz sights or an optic if that's allowed. You are going to aim your shotgun like a rifle.

Get some of those turkey head targets and set up three target a couple of yards apart at 30 yards (max distance for your 2-3/4 and experience IMO) and shoot one shell at each. Set the gun on a bag and stable rest so you can compare the shells as equally as possible and keep your setup the same between shells.

Go collect the targets, mark them with the shell information and set up new ones and try a different shell. Same process. Do this as many times as you have different shells and your shoulder can stand it. Use a sissy pad.....trust me. Unless you enjoy sporting a massive bruise on your shoulder and upper arm. I have pictures.

Review all your targets counting the pellets that only hit the vital areas brain, spine etc. A good target will have those already marked.

Average your three shots unless you have a shot that you screwed up, then throw it out cuz that was you not the shell.

Whatever shell shows the most pellets (average) in the vitals is the one you pick. As others have said I prefer #5 & #6 because the pellet load is higher and your have a better chance for more pellets in the vitals. It only takes one pellet in the brain or spine to ensure a good clean kill but those areas are small so it's a numbers game. At 30 yards or less they have enough energy.
Nice thing is you only have to do this once for your gun.


Once you decide on a shell (and your shoulder feels better). Practice shooting from the sitting position with your back against a tree, sitting in front of a bush or from your "turkey chair " should you have one of those.

Shoot at turkey targets at different distances 10,20,30 so you get a feel for where the gun and your shooting position hits the bird. You may find that your POA is slightly different to ensure a good pattern on the target.

This also helps you get a feel for where your max range shot is. 30 yards in the field is a LOT closer than you think. Most nubies ( including myself) miss birds because they shoot farther out than their equipment and skill level. Just be patient.

Get a portable ground blind. If you get a bird coming in and they see you moving or adjusting your gun....see ya! A blind gives you a little more cover. Decorate it with local vegetation.

Good seat and back cushions are a must. You may be sitting for hours.

For me, sitting still out in nature with full camo gives you a chance to see all of nature at its best. You will be surprised at how many animals will walk right by you. If the wind is right, you'll get coyotes, deer, bobcats etc within spitting distance. I think that's why I enjoy turkey hunting the most.

Good luck and enjoy the whole experience, hopefully you will get a bird, but in my opinion there is no such thing as a "failed" turkey hunt. Just the experience is worth the effort.
 
First make sure #3 shot is legal for turkeys in your state, it's not here in PA. You don't need it anyway, #4 or #5 will more than get it done, especially Winchester Longbeard XR shells. I've been guiding turkey hunters for 27 years, so I've learned a thing or two. Most of the info you were given is excellent. First scout, scout, scout, figure out what those birds are doing and find a good setup spot and get in there in the dark. Someone recommended a popup blind and I heartily agree, especially for a new hunter or kids, you can get away with a lot more in one of them, again positioning is critical. As far as calls, I can run all of them, however I use friction, slate / glass more than the others along with a mouth call. A good box call will also get it done, although I use mine more for locating than finishing a bird. One important thing DON'T CALL TOO MUCH!!! I know it's hard to not call to a gobbling turkey, but, when a turkey's talking he's not walking. It's real easy to cause a turkey to lock his feet 100 yds or more away and just stand there and scream. Don't yelp at a close turkey, I hear all the time that you will get busted using a slate or glass call if a turkey is close, the most I do when a turkey is real close is to purr at him if he is acting hinky to calm him down, The pot call is between my bent knees and all that moves is the bottom of the striker. I kill al lot of turkeys between 10 and 40 yds. most 30 yds or less I had a client kill a slammer at 12 yds. who had 3 other longbeards and at least 6 hens with him. Someone recommended waiting for the turkey to go behind a tree before moving your gun, this is great advice if you are in the woods, however if you are hunting a field edge, wait until the bird is in full strut and turns away from you and make sure none of his buddies are looking. You are entering into a sport that is amazing and at times very frustrating, it's not something you will master the first time or ten out, but that's part of the fun. I don't mind getting beat by a smart old gobbler, but I do mind beating myself. I hope some of this helps, so get out there and have fun. GOOD LUCK!
 
Have used 20, 16 and 12. Also several with my Bow.

All take turnkey. Advice on shot above is correct. Here is my 2 cents. Need to get them close for a shot.

Everwhere is a little different. I have hunted Eastern New York State/ PA line for many years.

- learn to call, without that they aren't coming. Mouth call will worth effort to learn.
- decoy work.
- tent blind, can set up on fly and everywhere. ( last year used for first time, wow!!) they allow more movement and Turkey don't care.
- learn locator call. Owl hoot... ect.
- have fun!
 
I killed several when all I had was a 16gauge pump handed down to me. #4 or #6 your going for pellets on target more than penetration. Shoot them in the head, it's easy to stare at the whole bird or fan and miss. Patience has killed more turkeys than high dollar shot or tubes, but they are handy.
Name of the game on public land is scouting and keeping hunting later into the day.
I know the pain of waiting on a draw. Good permits are hard to come by in Eastern NC
 
Im in Ont Canada, so some things will be different regulation wise, however, the basics are the same
Youre starting out...so dont get caught up in the marketing, you can blow through a ton of cash before u settle in

The basics
1: Full choke or tighter, if you have screw in chokes, a decent turkey choke for a beginner will run about $40. I use a remington undertaker, paid $25, not made anymore, but its served me well
2: Ditto #5 shot... You can get away with #6 if you use tungsten, bismuth, or other denser shsh materials..they also pattern better
3: Patterning ...find a realistic sized turkey target online...Pr ! M0s has a decent one. Set a target at 25, 30, 35, and 40yds. Fire 1 shot at each, running a bore snake between each shot. I find a little extra lube in the barrel holds the pattern tighter ( a trick an old vet taught me for unregulated turkey shoots 30 years ago...lol)
You will want at least 7-10 pellets in the turkeys head and neck, so check your targets closely. Once you have less than 7 pellets in the head and neck, back up 5 yds and thats yourmax distance. I set a few sticks upright in the ground fanning out from where i sit at my max distance and wait for the bird to be inside them

Thats the basics.. If you enjoy it (you will, unless your body lacks adrenal glands) work out from there. Turkeys are tough, remember to aim at that big red waddle and enjoy!!
 
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I have called in and killed many turkeys over the years. Early on we used large shot. We aimed for the body. After multiple wounded and lost birds we went to 7 1/2 shot and full choke and aimed for the head. Problem solved. No more lost birds. Since the head is such a small target the smaller shot provides the pattern density required. Instant and clean kills every time.
 
Like the other one said use your camouflage limit your moving I think they can see through block wall. And when you do get that shot aim for the neck her head I go for the neck. And when it comes to calling you don't have to be a world-class caller to call them in good luck and have fun.
 
i use #4 steel , use good came including on face and hands , when you set up on one try not to move ,if you do have to move slow . learn to use a mouth call and when calling try not to call to much , it's a blast
 
First make sure #3 shot is legal for turkeys in your state, it's not here in PA. You don't need it anyway, #4 or #5 will more than get it done, especially Winchester Longbeard XR shells. I've been guiding turkey hunters for 27 years, so I've learned a thing or two. Most of the info you were given is excellent. First scout, scout, scout, figure out what those birds are doing and find a good setup spot and get in there in the dark. Someone recommended a popup blind and I heartily agree, especially for a new hunter or kids, you can get away with a lot more in one of them, again positioning is critical. As far as calls, I can run all of them, however I use friction, slate / glass more than the others along with a mouth call. A good box call will also get it done, although I use mine more for locating than finishing a bird. One important thing DON'T CALL TOO MUCH!!! I know it's hard to not call to a gobbling turkey, but, when a turkey's talking he's not walking. It's real easy to cause a turkey to lock his feet 100 yds or more away and just stand there and scream. Don't yelp at a close turkey, I hear all the time that you will get busted using a slate or glass call if a turkey is close, the most I do when a turkey is real close is to purr at him if he is acting hinky to calm him down, The pot call is between my bent knees and all that moves is the bottom of the striker. I kill al lot of turkeys between 10 and 40 yds. most 30 yds or less I had a client kill a slammer at 12 yds. who had 3 other longbeards and at least 6 hens with him. Someone recommended waiting for the turkey to go behind a tree before moving your gun, this is great advice if you are in the woods, however if you are hunting a field edge, wait until the bird is in full strut and turns away from you and make sure none of his buddies are looking. You are entering into a sport that is amazing and at times very frustrating, it's not something you will master the first time or ten out, but that's part of the fun. I don't mind getting beat by a smart old gobbler, but I do mind beating myself. I hope some of this helps, so get out there and have fun. GOOD LUCK!
Really good advice here. The best turkey hunt starts the evening before. Try and locate the turkey on the roost. Then from your scouting you should have an idea of where he is going. Set up in that direction. Call just enough to let him know you are there while he's on the roost. Less can be more. If he answers he heard you and knows where you are. Be patient. The male wants the female to come to him. Sometimes playing hard to get is what you need. Also a lot of hard hunted easterns will come in dead silent. So be on gaurd and be ready. If you strike out in the morning find a field or road bed where turkeys like to strut and set up your blind. Call every 30 minutes or so. Mist guys like to run and gun but some old timers I know would just set up in a good spot and stay all day. After that turkey visits the ladys that morning hes gonna be out looking for stray hens especially later on when the hens start nesting. If he answered you on the roost but went the other direction he will come back late morning early afternoon looking for that lonely hen he heard that morning. If you can find a local experienced hunter to act as a mentor it will save you a ton of time.
 
Way to big of shot in my opinion. I would try #5 or #6 then pattern your gun out to 40 yards in 10 yard increments. This will tell you your point of impact and how far out the pattern is until it fall apart. That will be your maximum range. Just my experience. Good luck.
I like# 5s my self. But I shoot 31/2" shells.
 
I'm a 5 or 6 shot size guy myself. Reason is the neck/spinal cord is the the target zone. If you have smaller shot size you have more pellets in that zone. With that said when you shoot the ideal position of the bird is with it's neck and head fully extended. Not gobbling where the feathers protect the neck. I would avoid Head on body shots due to the feathers and breast protecting the vitals. Take a look at a store bought whole turkey or chicken and the anatomy will make sense. When you pattern your gun, as previously stated, make a paper target by making a fist and bend your fist down. This makes the shape of a neck and head. Trace it on the paper from your fist to elbow. You want the pattern covering the neck so aim in the middle of the neck. Take a shot then count the pellets in the head and neck. Now walk back and repeat to get your max range. You want about 6 pellets in the neck and head. Keep moving back till u get to your max range.
Good luck.
PS believe it or not it's almost like calling in rutting bull elk
I like # 5s with 3 1/2 shells. 60 yards. I'm good.
 
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