Air Compressor - Piping for Gunsmithing Equipment

I find it interesting that those who are, more or less, saying "PVC is fine" are not those who have witnessed or been around such a system that has failed or exploded. Having seen the aftermath of such an explosion at a friend's body shop there is no way that I'd ever say that PVC is fine for compressed air.
Funny story along the same thinking. I have identical twins, while at college, had to pick an elective class. When they saw "wood carving" they signed up. First day in class, I get a call. Seems the class only had a few, old and dull chisels. I ordered them a full set of Flex Steel woodcarving chisels, packaged in a leather pouch, with leather ties. Yes, pricey, except it was for my girls so...Anyhow, I also sent Kevlar gloves, and leather finger and thumb protectors as well. One of them called the day it arrived. She saw the hand protection, thought "I don't need those"....
90 seconds later she was pulling a chisel out of her thumb.

To this day, they still carve wood. To relax, make special gifts, experiment with different woods, whatever. Wish I could say the same for their college degrees.

Wisdom comes from experience. Experience is often a result of lack of wisdom.

Terry Pratchett
 
Funny story along the same thinking. I have identical twins, while at college, had to pick an elective class. When they saw "wood carving" they signed up. First day in class, I get a call. Seems the class only had a few, old and dull chisels. I ordered them a full set of Flex Steel woodcarving chisels, packaged in a leather pouch, with leather ties. Yes, pricey, except it was for my girls so...Anyhow, I also sent Kevlar gloves, and leather finger and thumb protectors as well. One of them called the day it arrived. She saw the hand protection, thought "I don't need those"....
90 seconds later she was pulling a chisel out of her thumb.

To this day, they still carve wood. To relax, make special gifts, experiment with different woods, whatever. Wish I could say the same for their college degrees.

Wisdom comes from experience. Experience is often a result of lack of wisdom.

Terry Pratchett
Sorry, they are called flexcut

 
Never have run copper for your use however I would use "L ". It is heaviest duty and commercial rated ( here in Calif ). Also, IMHO do not use copper pipe from HD or Lowes, mostly Chinese and we have alot of problems with pinholes which for air use might not be too bad but not good for water. Go to local plumbing supplier and spec. USA pipe. Prepare to sob as your wallet leaves but worth it.
Mike
Sort of agree, but air lines I've run we used copper tubing, not pipe. Softer tubing can be cut and soldered, but preferred hand bending most turns to improve flow. We are very limited in HVAC using elbows. Almost all Freon is run in tubing, generally type L. Word of caution, Freon tubing is sized outside, not inside size. Freon elbows are called long sweep, and I've never seen one outside of a plumbing/HVAC wholesaler. If you have a tight budget, skip this. Don't be fooled that the "softer" tubing isn't very strong either.
 
Good morning from New Zealand, We run a business down here, that is engaged in relocation of commercial facility's.( Eng/ Panel beating/Concrete. Etc, in recent years it has been apparent that PVC is the way to go. It used to be all Galv , screwed piping, but for the sake of cost saving its all the grey PVC now-days. All these plants are running air at about 100-120 PSI. Try it, it works for us.
 
We have been renovating out shop (seems like forever with my spinal cord injury). Getting ready to put some permanent Compressed Air Lines throughout the shop. Reloading area, Lathe/Mill/Drill/Saw area, and Cerakote Spray Booth & Blasing Station. Currently running rubber hoses and when putting more permanent lines in what is the best material to use? I looked at steel, but hard to work with and threading, PVC Scheduled 40 seems like a bad idea because of plastic break down. Looking at Copper. Type "L" is rated at 1,000psi and Type "M is 700 psi. Big difference in price. Our Compressor is a Quincy Two Stage, Four Cylinder, 5 HP, 60 Gallon and 175 psi. I Installed an After Cooler on the compressor between the compressor and tank with water separator/filter then have 60' of copper pipe in several 7' sections to act as a dryer with drains on each section. After that the air goes into an Advanced 3-in-1 compressed air dryer system features modes for pre-refrigeration, evaporation, and air and moisture separation.
Then I need to get the Filtered/Clean/Moisture Free air to the stations.
What is the piping you may be using?

Thanks
Len & Jill
PEX is the cheapest and will last a lifetime. Easy to work with and if you want to add something later, simple. I don't personally like the looks of it, but that's my problem. It is very user friendly once you have the tools.
 
We have been renovating out shop (seems like forever with my spinal cord injury). Getting ready to put some permanent Compressed Air Lines throughout the shop. Reloading area, Lathe/Mill/Drill/Saw area, and Cerakote Spray Booth & Blasing Station. Currently running rubber hoses and when putting more permanent lines in what is the best material to use? I looked at steel, but hard to work with and threading, PVC Scheduled 40 seems like a bad idea because of plastic break down. Looking at Copper. Type "L" is rated at 1,000psi and Type "M is 700 psi. Big difference in price. Our Compressor is a Quincy Two Stage, Four Cylinder, 5 HP, 60 Gallon and 175 psi. I Installed an After Cooler on the compressor between the compressor and tank with water separator/filter then have 60' of copper pipe in several 7' sections to act as a dryer with drains on each section. After that the air goes into an Advanced 3-in-1 compressed air dryer system features modes for pre-refrigeration, evaporation, and air and moisture separation.
Then I need to get the Filtered/Clean/Moisture Free air to the stations.
What is the piping you may be using?

Thanks
Len & Jill
There's an excellent plastic line that has an oil resistant liner, the fittings are very easy and quick to use. Size I would use 3/4" NB mains with 1/2" outlets to Aero fittings for your hoses. Will find link to pipe, I am old school but after using this am a changed person. You can do pipework in an hour that would have taken a day to do!
 
We have been renovating out shop (seems like forever with my spinal cord injury). Getting ready to put some permanent Compressed Air Lines throughout the shop. Reloading area, Lathe/Mill/Drill/Saw area, and Cerakote Spray Booth & Blasing Station. Currently running rubber hoses and when putting more permanent lines in what is the best material to use? I looked at steel, but hard to work with and threading, PVC Scheduled 40 seems like a bad idea because of plastic break down. Looking at Copper. Type "L" is rated at 1,000psi and Type "M is 700 psi. Big difference in price. Our Compressor is a Quincy Two Stage, Four Cylinder, 5 HP, 60 Gallon and 175 psi. I Installed an After Cooler on the compressor between the compressor and tank with water separator/filter then have 60' of copper pipe in several 7' sections to act as a dryer with drains on each section. After that the air goes into an Advanced 3-in-1 compressed air dryer system features modes for pre-refrigeration, evaporation, and air and moisture separation.
Then I need to get the Filtered/Clean/Moisture Free air to the stations.
What is the piping you may be using?

Thanks
Len & Jill
 
Not exactly true. I use Harris Brigit solder, even on Freon lines. I have almost 40 years experience in HVAC, and Harris shows that field brazing copper actually weakened it. Using Brigit, a copper joint held up to 5,000 psi. The joint, not the pipe. Soldering is easy, but there are two common mistakes. Too much heat, and you burn the flux. Brigit flux has a higher burn temp, around 800 degrees. Using too much solder is the other mistake as it washes out the flux. If solder is dripping on the floor, that's using too much. We use copper everywhere. Indoors, outdoors, underground even. Water, AC lines, boiler water lines, even for Propane gas lines. Not permitted to use for Natural gas lines, The added odor to natural gas is acidic. For air systems, we ran 2" black pipe main lines, a brass adapter must be used when reducing to and running copper. The brass prevents corrosion from connecting copper to steel. If your house is plumbed in copper, and it connects to the water heater directly, that's wrong. Drops were 3/4". A 3/4" line can then be reduced to two 1/2" or three 3/8" lines without a loss of volume, air or water.
Brigit became my choice of soft solder as well. HVAC union Mechanical Equipment Service Journeyman. This is all true.
 
I didn't read through all the pages so forgive me if I repeat someone else's advice. Your use of dryers and filters seems to be adequate. DON'T use PVC. PVC is dangerous with compressed air. PVC pipe manufacturers specifically warn against using PVC with compressed air, When a pressurized PVC is struck or fractured in will shatter and send splinters in every direction injuring anyone close by. Steel pipe is our preferred material since it's is such rugged material. But it is kind of hard for a novice to use. In your application we would probably use L copper since it is easy to use and looks neat and tidy. The fittings could be either solder or press. Brigit or Taramet Sterling are great solders. If you use press fittings be sure to use the ones approved for petroleum products. I have not used the the Duratec piping but it does seem to be promising but it may be more challenging to install neatly. You may PM me with your phone number and I will be glad to discuss the job with you.

The other plumbers/pipe fitters advice is also solid.


PlumberEd
 
Brigit became my choice of soft solder as well. HVAC union Mechanical Equipment Service Journeyman. This is all true.
One last comment. Compressed anything is dangerous. A factory that was one of our accounts had a 15' high 10' wide compressed air ASME rated tank with around 200psi in it. It appeared to be in perfect condition from the outside. The air dryer was not properly maintained. The auto blowdown system was not properly maintained. This led to moisture that led to rust that led to the tank rupturing. It happened during third shift without many people around and was in a separate room with the compressed air equipment then piped through a block wall to serve the factory. When it ruptured it took down much of the block wall. I used to have photos showing the damage. There is a lot of energy in a compressed air system. Have respect for it.
 
Never have run copper for your use however I would use "L ". It is heaviest duty and commercial rated ( here in Calif ). Also, IMHO do not use copper pipe from HD or Lowes, mostly Chinese and we have alot of problems with pinholes which for air use might not be too bad but not good for water. Go to local plumbing supplier and spec. USA pipe. Prepare to sob as your wallet leaves but worth it.
Mike
We will be purchasing CERRO Copper Pipe 3/4" "L" about $4.34 per Ft. - 10% Mil Discount.
"Buy Once Cry Once". I can solder or "Silver Braze"
  • Manufactured in the USA and is produced in compliance with the applicable chemical and mechanical properties of ASTM standards
  • For domestic water service and distribution, fire protection, solar, fuel / fuel oil, snow melting, compressed air, natural gas, liquefied petroleum (LP) gas, and vacuum applications
  • Alloy C12200 (DHP) meets industry standards and is NSF / ANSI Standard 61 certified
  • Has a 50 Year Warranty
 
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