I have a similar shop but put 2 main regular lines frome the compressor, one at 100psi for normal work and the other is usually at 15-30psi as needed for painting or whatever the need seems to be at the time. PVC is my piping and it has worked great for several years now.
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Air Compressor - Piping for Gunsmithing Equipment
- Thread starter Coyote Shadow Tracker
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Copper "M" is rated at 700 psi @ $3.08 per foot and "L" Copper is 1,000 psi @$4.34 per foot this 3/4" diameter.
January 2021 we bought 50' "L" 1/2 pipe (5) Brass Ball Valves, (10) "T" (10) Elbows (10) threaded male/Female connectors. 15 Copper Brackets. to make a Dryer to capture moister before the air went into the Electric Dryer Cost us $240.00 I just checked todays' price $370.00
January 2021 we bought 50' "L" 1/2 pipe (5) Brass Ball Valves, (10) "T" (10) Elbows (10) threaded male/Female connectors. 15 Copper Brackets. to make a Dryer to capture moister before the air went into the Electric Dryer Cost us $240.00 I just checked todays' price $370.00
OSHA inspectors have no idea what they are looking for most of the time, but will always find something to correct so they can say they are doing their job.
Mike Matteson
Well-Known Member
Most air tools operate @ 90psi. 175psi is fine. Schedule 40 should be good. I would use primer a long with the welding the parts together. Be sure as placing couplers Tees, and other pieces together, that they don't move away from each other. so you will need to hold that joint together for 30 sec. or so before releasing. Don't let the weld down the pipe as much as possible. There going to be some, not huge amounts. No water while welding the joints together. Where you convert to steel connection from PVC be sure to support at those intersection by attaching to the wall. At tee intersection to allow a connection to rubber air line. I would use a tee's that is SxSxS and add at a pipe extension by about 6" (be sure it fixed to the wall so you can't brake it off, and if you want to cut into it later on, you have room to add and put back together). and place a S x Male adaptor to thread too. I wouldn't use S-By-female adaptor, because the connection likes to split. Be sure use a good pipe dope on the threaded connections. As it normally goes, the hose is never long enough. Also support along the runs every some many feet also. Most PVC has a pressure rating on the pipe. The purple primer is needed, because the schedule 40 is harder, and just straight welder doesn't work as well. The other is PVC can have problems over the years if exposed to direct sun light. Indirect not a problem. One more thing is make sure your joints are clean and free of cutting is clean off if using s hacksaw. I would go to a larger pipe D.I. too. Every turn creates a restriction, and CFM lost. So the larger the pipe the less pressure loss. So you need to look at what the CFM requirements for the tools you are going to use, and is rated at per minutes. So you largest tool will set the rate of CFM. Impact wrenches are generally rated @ 90PSI, CFM requires for each are different sizes. You can do the research on CFM requirements as to what is needed. Straight air to blow things off requires more CFM. I have had Plastic pipe underground for over 60yrs. with out any problems. That pipe then was as good as now.
tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
60 gallon is a nice size, for work that does not require a lot of flow at mid ~ high pressures.
Each pipe adds to the volume of your compressed gas. A 3/8 pipe will hold much less gas than a 2" pipe. Steel and copper are easy to mount, finished and done, basically little to no maintenance, (dry air, oilers at machines/tools). Easy to paint if you wish, or hide behind pull down storage, or wall cabinet, shelves.
Copper or black pipe, black pipe was much less expensive last time I "needed" any. Grab a couple friends, rent a pipe cutter/threader, and do some work on their favorite rifles in exchange for their labor. Cook a good lunch and dinner for them and families.
Like metals bind, some different metals create oxidation, use care when attaching different types of metals.
I have a bit of a damaged spine, neck bones, and things I damaged when young and restless, (senseless).
I do feel for you. Do what you can, and know when to stop, or take a break. If you are married, when sweetie comes out and tells you to take a break, listen to her. I am still learning, my head is hard though, calloused by finding many hard things to knock it against, repeatedly.
Each pipe adds to the volume of your compressed gas. A 3/8 pipe will hold much less gas than a 2" pipe. Steel and copper are easy to mount, finished and done, basically little to no maintenance, (dry air, oilers at machines/tools). Easy to paint if you wish, or hide behind pull down storage, or wall cabinet, shelves.
Copper or black pipe, black pipe was much less expensive last time I "needed" any. Grab a couple friends, rent a pipe cutter/threader, and do some work on their favorite rifles in exchange for their labor. Cook a good lunch and dinner for them and families.
Like metals bind, some different metals create oxidation, use care when attaching different types of metals.
I have a bit of a damaged spine, neck bones, and things I damaged when young and restless, (senseless).
I do feel for you. Do what you can, and know when to stop, or take a break. If you are married, when sweetie comes out and tells you to take a break, listen to her. I am still learning, my head is hard though, calloused by finding many hard things to knock it against, repeatedly.
Bob Wright
Well-Known Member
If you are consider PEX, there are considerations for how to install and how to protect from sunlight coming into the shop, fluorescent lighting and affecting the pipe. It is designed to carry potable water but still consider exposure to light.
upgradedhome.com
How To Protect PEX Pipe From UV Light (Here Are the Details) – Upgraded Home
PEX pipes are some of the most durable, useful, and versatile construction materials, but they are easily damaged by UV lighting. The heat that UV lights put off can damage PEX pipes, but you can protect them in several ways including latex paint. Whether it be location, storage, or...
upgradedhome.com
First, back injuries absolutely suck! I know. Get well soon. Don't use steel unless you are meticulous in draining water/moisture EVERY day. The rust and corrosion builds up quickly. My old system used galvanized steel. I was shocked at the crap that i found in those lines when i took it down. The old pipes were in for 15 years or so. I retrofitted my shop with L type copper and cried once (as it goes). Never had a problem yet after 9 years or so. Your going to have to install filtration and water separators irregardless, don't get cheap here. Best of luck with your shop.
Calamity
Well-Known Member
I strongly recommend you use 1/2" or 3/4" steel pipe. PVC is not suited for pressurized gases, and can be easily damaged by someone yanking on an air line. Brass and type L copper is suitable for fittings and end piece nozzles, but not recommended for system piping. Regular galvanized sch40 steel pipe is best.
ntsqd
Well-Known Member
I find it interesting that those who are, more or less, saying "PVC is fine" are not those who have witnessed or been around such a system that has failed or exploded. Having seen the aftermath of such an explosion at a friend's body shop there is no way that I'd ever say that PVC is fine for compressed air.
We are going with all Copper. Right now I have an "After Cooler" with a filter and water separator going between the compressor and Tank. This will take some moister out of the air before going into the tank.
After the Tank I am making (8) 6' copper lines connected in a up & down pattern with drain valves at each bottom for moister control. This setup will help with condensing moister inside those pipes. After that the air will go into a Compressed Air Dryer then to the lines in the shop. The Cerakote Station will have additional Air Filters.
Thank everyone for all the input that was given
Len & Jill
After the Tank I am making (8) 6' copper lines connected in a up & down pattern with drain valves at each bottom for moister control. This setup will help with condensing moister inside those pipes. After that the air will go into a Compressed Air Dryer then to the lines in the shop. The Cerakote Station will have additional Air Filters.
Thank everyone for all the input that was given
Len & Jill
villagelightsmith
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2013
- Messages
- 234
I ran copper around the whole perimeter of the shop, and like the electrical and vacuum lines I put in a connection every 4 feet. I wanted a shop where a blind man could walk in a straight line in any direction and find an outlet at a little above waist height, where I could see it. It hurt only once, but it's been mighty handy for years.
Never have run copper for your use however I would use "L ". It is heaviest duty and commercial rated ( here in Calif ). Also, IMHO do not use copper pipe from HD or Lowes, mostly Chinese and we have alot of problems with pinholes which for air use might not be too bad but not good for water. Go to local plumbing supplier and spec. USA pipe. Prepare to sob as your wallet leaves but worth it.
Mike
villagelightsmith
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 16, 2013
- Messages
- 234
That's what I call a hairy-legged shop ... built for the men who come after us!
