Air Compressor - Piping for Gunsmithing Equipment

[zwak 19]

Just looked at it.
INTERESTING!
Will have to do a cost comparison
EDIT
Price is comparable to "M" copper pipe - $1.80 ft Rapid 1/2" to $1.90 Copper "M".
Copper "L" is $2.60 ft.

Thanks much
Len & Jill.

PVC pipe is not a good idea if it gets hit it will send shrapnel through you shop at high speed very dangerous and probably not meet codes or insurance liability

 

[Mmac52280]

If you read up on copper you realize that the solder joints are the places that are the weakest. I installed one system using silver solder and was so proud of myself for addressing that failure mode. Until I realized that to get the silver solder to flow that I'd basically annealed the tubing at the joint. It was a lot more expensive and no real gain. The second copper system that I've installed is soft soldered.

Not exactly true. I use Harris Brigit solder, even on Freon lines. I have almost 40 years experience in HVAC, and Harris shows that field brazing copper actually weakened it. Using Brigit, a copper joint held up to 5,000 psi. The joint, not the pipe. Soldering is easy, but there are two common mistakes. Too much heat, and you burn the flux. Brigit flux has a higher burn temp, around 800 degrees. Using too much solder is the other mistake as it washes out the flux. If solder is dripping on the floor, that's using too much. We use copper everywhere. Indoors, outdoors, underground even. Water, AC lines, boiler water lines, even for Propane gas lines. Not permitted to use for Natural gas lines, The added odor to natural gas is acidic. For air systems, we ran 2" black pipe main lines, a brass adapter must be used when reducing to and running copper. The brass prevents corrosion from connecting copper to steel. If your house is plumbed in copper, and it connects to the water heater directly, that's wrong. Drops were 3/4". A 3/4" line can then be reduced to two 1/2" or three 3/8" lines without a loss of volume, air or water.

 

[Gary in MD]

Use copper or steel!!
I've been a plumber/pipe fitter for 34 years. Installed many compressed air systems through the years.
Don't use pvc!! You are creating a potential bomb.
Gary

 

[sawzall]

Go to a truck shop and buy the plastic line used for air systems on trucks. The stuff lasts for millions of miles in the harshest environment you could ever imagine. Easy to work with and easy to fix as well if necessary. Brass compression fittings work just fine on them. I'd maybe consider a hybrid system of a 2" copper main pipe of a hood length for some volume and 1" plastic airline for the rest.

 

[Mmac52280]

Bridgit® Lead-Free Solder

Tin-antimony-copper lead-free solder with flow properties. Bridgit® has a wider melting range than other lead-free solders. Ideal for plumbing applications.

www.harrisproductsgroup.com

• Nickel content makes Bridget one of the strongest lead-free solders
• Excellent for large diameter fittings and ill-fitting or non-concentric pipes
• Fills both tight and loose, non-concentric connections with ease
• Joint strength far exceeds the burst pressure of copper tubing

 

[kmar3776]

We have been renovating out shop (seems like forever with my spinal cord injury). Getting ready to put some permanent Compressed Air Lines throughout the shop. Reloading area, Lathe/Mill/Drill/Saw area, and Cerakote Spray Booth & Blasing Station. Currently running rubber hoses and when putting more permanent lines in what is the best material to use? I looked at steel, but hard to work with and threading, PVC Scheduled 40 seems like a bad idea because of plastic break down. Looking at Copper. Type "L" is rated at 1,000psi and Type "M is 700 psi. Big difference in price. Our Compressor is a Quincy Two Stage, Four Cylinder, 5 HP, 60 Gallon and 175 psi. I Installed an After Cooler on the compressor between the compressor and tank with water separator/filter then have 60' of copper pipe in several 7' sections to act as a dryer with drains on each section. After that the air goes into an Advanced 3-in-1 compressed air dryer system features modes for pre-refrigeration, evaporation, and air and moisture separation.
Then I need to get the Filtered/Clean/Moisture Free air to the stations.
What is the piping you may be using?

Thanks
Len & Jill

Absolutely do not use any PVC. Any cracks and the system can explode like a bomb. Plastic systems are offers in Polyethylene and have to be heat fusion welded. See Asahi plastics Air Pro system. For all practical purpose use L or K copper tubing as M is used primarily in residential hot water heating systems. Galvanized or black schedule 40 carbon steel A120/A53 steel pipe also works. Galvanized is better for corrosion resistance as unless you have an air dryer there will be moisture in your compressed air.

 

[Werley2262]

I've installed compressed air systems in coal fired power plants before and always used copper. Granted it's alot larger than what you are doing but copper is tried and true. Cleaner than carbon steel which can rust if any moisture gets in it. PVC says not for compressed air that's a failure waiting to happen which could cause injury.

 

[hunter66]

I put 1/2" Schedule 80 PVC in my shop about 10 years ago with no problems. I was told to make to use primer before the glue.

 

[jpndave]

Is pex pipe oil compatable? Most industrial compressors are oil type compressors- not oil free like the small home improvement type

The rapid air fitting are expensive because they are stainless steel -- but nice, and the distribution blocks are aluminum so you need to use both Teflon tape and pipe dope so you get fitting galling

My compressor is an industrial 2-stage 7-1/2hp IR w/pressure lube so not a hobby oil less. I have worked it HARD many times and no problems. Fittings can be had in brass or plastic. I used brass on that. Oetiker clamps are SS. It's a solid set up..

 

[Michael. Schwarm]

We have been renovating out shop (seems like forever with my spinal cord injury). Getting ready to put some permanent Compressed Air Lines throughout the shop. Reloading area, Lathe/Mill/Drill/Saw area, and Cerakote Spray Booth & Blasing Station. Currently running rubber hoses and when putting more permanent lines in what is the best material to use? I looked at steel, but hard to work with and threading, PVC Scheduled 40 seems like a bad idea because of plastic break down. Looking at Copper. Type "L" is rated at 1,000psi and Type "M is 700 psi. Big difference in price. Our Compressor is a Quincy Two Stage, Four Cylinder, 5 HP, 60 Gallon and 175 psi. I Installed an After Cooler on the compressor between the compressor and tank with water separator/filter then have 60' of copper pipe in several 7' sections to act as a dryer with drains on each section. After that the air goes into an Advanced 3-in-1 compressed air dryer system features modes for pre-refrigeration, evaporation, and air and moisture separation.
Then I need to get the Filtered/Clean/Moisture Free air to the stations.
What is the piping you may be using?

Thanks
Len & Jill

There are several safe and approved materials for compressed air lines black pipe ,copper line , and a new product Plex that is compatible for air compressor lines I have used the Plex non my shop very easy to install and very safe

 

[TX COWDOC]

I just outfitted my shop with this. I'm really happy with it. https://www.rapidairproducts.com

Me too. Works well.

 

[adk hunter]

If you run 2" schedule 80 you get all that extra volume too acts like a really big tank.

 

[hvacman04]

PVC pipe is not a good idea if it gets hit it will send shrapnel through you shop at high speed very dangerous and probably not meet codes or insurance liability

DEAR COYOTE SHADOW, please don't use pvc , the schedule 80 I think would be o.k. I worked at our local school system and installed 1 inch schedule 40, works great for about 10 years. I did some research on this. I found it is the compressor oils that break down the pvc, not the glue. I have a 90 degree fitting that the pvc air line exploded and hit me in the chest. I have the fitting saved somewhere I will try to make a clear pic of it,and send it to sir. we changed everything to 1 inch black iron , then 3/4, or 1/2 inch.

 

[billflangjr813]

We used pvc no problems

That's what we used in our Door Shop!! Works Great!!! PVS -S 40