Air Compressor - Piping for Gunsmithing Equipment

[Reelamin]

I put schedule 40 PVC in the ranch shop in about 1980 or so, and it still works perfectly today as it did back then. I used a hydralic hose to run form the compressor to the line for vibration. Then every 20 feet or so ran a dropper with a drain on it. In my shop now I just run a separator/filter before each main use fitting/connection. PVC works for me...easy to install, fix if damaged, cut in new line/connection and best of all much more affordable. I use alcohol cleaned pipe ends/fittings with primer and glue as your fittings are the leak points. Good luck and enjoy the not running a in the way air hose all around the shop.

 

[bill123]

Just looked at it.
INTERESTING!
Will have to do a cost comparison
EDIT
Price is comparable to "M" copper pipe - $1.80 ft Rapid 1/2" to $1.90 Copper "M".
Copper "L" is $2.60 ft.

Thanks much
Len & Jill.

It starts to add up when you buy their connectors.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

It starts to add up when you buy their connectors.

Everything does no matter what material. Less than two years ago the copper was 1/2 to price.

 

[338 dude]

Transair® Aluminum Pipe

Transair® aluminum pipe is the ideal system for any compressed air, vacuum, or inert gas application.

www.transairaluminumpipe.com

 

[338 dude]

What Type of Pipe Should I Use for My Air Compressor?

A frequent question regarding air compressors is, “What type of pipe should I use for my air compressor?” Click to learn the answer...

www.mfcp.com

 

[338 dude]

338 dude is probably seeing PEX piping. I ran 1/2" sch 40 PVC in my shop with no problems.

No this is not pex pipe this is designed for air compressor lines

 

[ARlife4me]

Sch40 has 200+ psi rating and depending on volume to match the compressor you might go up to 1". 1/2 and 3/4 should be plenty. Just clamp the end down that will have the connector on being a T or L. O2 compared to other gases can be the deciding factor on the "do not use gas" statement. You could also get 1/2" air hose in bulk, but those brass fittings add up. Especially the reusable end type!

 

[bigngreen]

PVC sucks and is dangerous, I have three shops ran with it and one has been converted to steel the other two I should have converted a couple years ago but now just have to wait till it can be budgeted in and we'll go with the blue pipe. We've had two guys injured when a pipe blew, it's always working a leak so then your patching section in, HATE it!!

 

[bigngreen]

Go larger diameter for your mains than you feel will work, this adds storage and above all reduces line loss especially for running stuff where CFM is needed like blasting, everything about my shops was done wrong so by the end running a large gun you have to hit in bursts so the lines can recharge.

 

[LISBON]

I have done copper and separators at each drop.
Running 125 psi and lower.

 

[Racer00]

The Rapid Air kits mentioned above work great. I bought the kits through Northern Tool and some extras that I needed to complete the job. Get lots of hangers to keep thing secure. I used hydraulic hose between the compressor and the line to absorb vibration. That stuff is easy to work with. Quick to install if your time is of any value, and easy to change or adapt if your needs change later. Black pipe is great, but time consuming to install and very difficult to change later if needed. Go with the blue tube and don't look back.

 

[Trooper1]

Another reason NOT to use PVC is the possibility of static electricity, which wouldn't be good in a reloading environment. In my early years working for a plumbing company, the owner would no install air lines in PVC. Steel pipe, or preferably copper.

 

[Welderboy11972]

Highly recommend using 2" for your main piping. Then reduce it down at each station. Like Bigandgreen said, you'll need volume over psi if more then 1 station is running at once.

 

[jpndave]

I have used most all of the options presented (except the proprietary plastic ones). I'm going to run PEX in my shop for exactly what you are looking at. I did a patch up next to my compressor a decade or so ago when it's all I had available over a weekend and it worked brilliantly.

Copper run correctly close to the compressor can work well as a water separator - exactly as you've done. PVC is brittle and stupid expensive right now so not the huge cost savings it used to be. Black pipe = rust and you need a pipe threader (which I have and still wouldn't go that way). Yes everything is up in $ but some is up 20% and other 4x what it should be.

I am using Oetiker clamps with the PEX. I don't trust the other methods at that higher pressure.