Air Compressor - Piping for Gunsmithing Equipment

[MOA NIGHTHAWK]

no problems until there's problems. When pvc gets brittle...and it will....it will shatter into shards and create havoc. I'm a professional plumber/ pipefitter and pvc for airlines isn't ever a good idea. I've installed copper in a starter repair shop and most most recently that blue pipe you speak of. Threaded black steel is fine too, but pvc is a definite no-go

It's the mentality that speaks to "it's never happened to me"; unfortunately, I know a guy that was a year ahead of me in my Steamfitter apprenticeship, who was allowed to use pvc as the delivery pipe for an air test on a larger system, who was injured so severely it ended his career! It happened when the pvc delivery pipe either came unsecured or while securing it under pressure. Plastic projectiles ripped through him. His life was dramatically changed in an instant…

Of course, I know there are people that go out in the ocean all the time unprepared - not enough life jackets, radio not functioning, GPS not working, no radar in the fog, bilge pumps not tested… Sure most come back (with luck) unscathed, but every season I'll hear 2-3 distress calls -some second hand/relayed about a boat going down, people in the water, or a panic call and needing a tow from offshore and some not knowing where they are… Even worse; too small of a boat for conditions and people drowning.

 

[Mr1Fixit]

We have been renovating out shop (seems like forever with my spinal cord injury). Getting ready to put some permanent Compressed Air Lines throughout the shop. Reloading area, Lathe/Mill/Drill/Saw area, and Cerakote Spray Booth & Blasing Station. Currently running rubber hoses and when putting more permanent lines in what is the best material to use? I looked at steel, but hard to work with and threading, PVC Scheduled 40 seems like a bad idea because of plastic break down. Looking at Copper. Type "L" is rated at 1,000psi and Type "M is 700 psi. Big difference in price. Our Compressor is a Quincy Two Stage, Four Cylinder, 5 HP, 60 Gallon and 175 psi. I Installed an After Cooler on the compressor between the compressor and tank with water separator/filter then have 60' of copper pipe in several 7' sections to act as a dryer with drains on each section. After that the air goes into an Advanced 3-in-1 compressed air dryer system features modes for pre-refrigeration, evaporation, and air and moisture separation.
Then I need to get the Filtered/Clean/Moisture Free air to the stations.
What is the piping you may be using?

Thanks
Len & Jill

I think you are on the right track with copper, particularly if you have the ability to solder it. I used to design compressed air systems for plants and laboratories (and have it in my shop at home). We specified Type 'L' or even type 'K' with soldered or brazed fittings. Most industrial, lab and hospital medical air systems are constructed of copper. I would never use PVC for compressed air because it can shatter and make shrapnel if something hits it and it is full of compressed air at 110 psi. I don't have an issue with plastic in small diameter tubing such as that in common use in pneumatically actuated / controlled systems at point of use. You have to remember that compressed air stores a lot of energy, way more than a water pipe at the same pressure. You can use pro-press and shark-bite type fittings, but they are expensive - I am a fan for repairs, but not new systems. Swagelok type double ferrule fittings see a good bit of use for small piping in industrial systems, but they are expensive. My shop system has steel on the old Quincy compressor, copper from the receiver to a threaded manifold with a gauge and a filter regulator, I use rubber hoses at point of use. If you are going to use it for spray finishing, you should dry it with a refrigerated dryer (and / or a desiccant type dryer) and use coalescing type filters to get the oil and particulate out of it. The Compressed Air and Gas Institute has some design guides you can Google, and you may find pipe sizing tables from the Copper Development Association Handbooks.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

I think you are on the right track with copper, particularly if you have the ability to solder it. I used to design compressed air systems for plants and laboratories (and have it in my shop at home). We specified Type 'L' or even type 'K' with soldered or brazed fittings. Most industrial, lab and hospital medical air systems are constructed of copper. I would never use PVC for compressed air because it can shatter and make shrapnel if something hits it and it is full of compressed air at 110 psi. I don't have an issue with plastic in small diameter tubing such as that in common use in pneumatically actuated / controlled systems at point of use. You have to remember that compressed air stores a lot of energy, way more than a water pipe at the same pressure. You can use pro-press and shark-bite type fittings, but they are expensive - I am a fan for repairs, but not new systems. Swagelok type double ferrule fittings see a good bit of use for small piping in industrial systems, but they are expensive. My shop system has steel on the old Quincy compressor, copper from the receiver to a threaded manifold with a gauge and a filter regulator, I use rubber hoses at point of use. If you are going to use it for spray finishing, you should dry it with a refrigerated dryer (and / or a desiccant type dryer) and use coalescing type filters to get the oil and particulate out of it. The Compressed Air and Gas Institute has some design guides you can Google, and you may find pipe sizing tables from the Copper Development Association Handbooks.

Thanks much for your advice.
I mentioned in previous posts that will be using
Quincy 5HP Four Cylinder Two Stage compressor and 60 gallon tank. There is an air filter on incoming air to the compressor.
Between the Compressor and Tank I have a "AfterCooler with a AirFilter and Water Seperator & drain"
This will help with mositer removal after the compressor and before entering the Tank.
After the Tank I have 50' of "L" Copper pipe in an up & down configuratation - Seven 6' sections with moisturer drain valves at the bottom of each section.
This will help with any condensatation in the air after the Tank and before the Refrigerated Dryer. This Refrigerated Dryer should have all the remaining moister out, but to make sure I also have Air Filters and Water Seperators(desicant) before the air goes into the Creakote System or the Media Blasting station. So we have Four redundant moisture removal cleaning sections before the air gets to the Cerakote/Media for Blasting/or parts cleaning.
Expensive but will have top grade DRY air for the operatation and piping that should last for many years.
Thanks again
Len & Jill

 

[Rhett Crider]

Has anyone looked into an automated programable drain system? I'm looking at this but any experience out there on a system?

 

[XxaquadogxX]

It depends on your volume needs. The line inner diameter is the biggest consideration. 3/4 PVC will carry air and supply it with much less pressure drop than 1/2. While blasting do you need better sustained volume, or higher pressure? In either case, 3/4 will deliver much better results. PVC burst strength ratings as well as chemical resistance should be checked, and the burst strength should be approx 3 times your working load. Many shops use this method without an issue. I believe the blue line mentioned in an earlier post is most likely PEX, another choice from the plumbing dept, it is available as a roller product without the need for as many joints, again you would need to check burst strength. It uses push lock fittings which are also compatible with hard copper and PVC. I hope this is useful for you.

 

[ntsqd]

Friend of mine used to make what he called "Bicycle Jewelry" with several CNC machines and his air system had an automated condensate drain system on the receiver tank. I don't know too much about it, but he told me that it drained when the condensate reached a certain level rather than just draining on timed intervals.

@aquadog; the term "Push-lok" is actually a trademarked name by Parker for an entirely different type of fitting that will not work with PEX, copper or PVC tubing. No familiarity with the "push lock" fittings that you refer to, but I suspect that if they're called that by the mfg that Parker's lawyers are working on it.

 

[2buffalo]

It depends on your volume needs. The line inner diameter is the biggest consideration. 3/4 PVC will carry air and supply it with much less pressure drop than 1/2. While blasting do you need better sustained volume, or higher pressure? In either case, 3/4 will deliver much better results. PVC burst strength ratings as well as chemical resistance should be checked, and the burst strength should be approx 3 times your working load. Many shops use this method without an issue. I believe the blue line mentioned in an earlier post is most likely PEX, another choice from the plumbing dept, it is available as a roller product without the need for as many joints, again you would need to check burst strength. It uses push lock fittings which are also compatible with hard copper and PVC. I hope this is useful for you.

The problem with PVC is not what it is rated for it is what happens when it fails which any man made item can fail. It turns into a shrapnel situation.

 

[257WTBY]

I plumed my shop with copper. I used 1in and made a full circle up in the rafters and I used 3/4 in drops about every 10 ft or so with a ball valve shut off on each drop. I made two dedicated drops - one for media blaster cabinet and one between lathe and mill. I also ran two 3/4 in legs to the middle of the of the shop with ball valves in front of hose reels with 50 ft rubber hoses on each. I have a 40x60 shop with two 16X12 garage doors so one of my drops is tee'd at the end between the doors with a line thru the wall to use outside did the same in the rear for air available to back yard. Heres the deal tho my employer at the time removed over 1000 Ft of 1" and 3/4" copper piping and I got all I needed for free with take home slip. Saved me thousands otherwise I would have been a lot more thrifty in my airline shopping. I do like the 1" and 3/4 in because it added a ton of volume to my storage capacity. I also have two compressor tanks up above the rafters. I bought two bad compressors off C/L just for their 60 gallon tanks. My compressor is twin 60 gallon tanks so with that my two storage tanks and big line I have about 300 gallons of air storage. I have two tanks above rafters with solenoid valves on the bottom to drain moisture out of the tanks. I wired them to a switch and once a week or or so I turn it on for 10-15 seconds to blow any moisture out.

 

[Mmac52280]

I plumed my shop with copper. I used 1in and made a full circle up in the rafters and I used 3/4 in drops about every 10 ft or so with a ball valve shut off on each drop. I made two dedicated drops - one for media blaster cabinet and one between lathe and mill. I also ran two 3/4 in legs to the middle of the of the shop with ball valves in front of hose reels with 50 ft rubber hoses on each. I have a 40x60 shop with two 16X12 garage doors so one of my drops is tee'd at the end between the doors with a line thru the wall to use outside did the same in the rear for air available to back yard. Heres the deal tho my employer at the time removed over 1000 Ft of 1" and 3/4" copper piping and I got all I needed for free with take home slip. Saved me thousands otherwise I would have been a lot more thrifty in my airline shopping. I do like the 1" and 3/4 in because it added a ton of volume to my storage capacity. I also have two compressor tanks up above the rafters. I bought two bad compressors off C/L just for their 60 gallon tanks. My compressor is twin 60 gallon tanks so with that my two storage tanks and big line I have about 300 gallons of air storage. I have two tanks above rafters with solenoid valves on the bottom to drain moisture out of the tanks. I wired them to a switch and once a week or or so I turn it on for 10-15 seconds to blow any moisture out.

Well thought out

 

[ntsqd]

I have read of systems that put a second (or more) air tank at the far end of the system from the compressor and it's tank(s). Seems like a good idea if you have a long system and the space to do it.

 

[DakotaFire101]

Man you fellers are fancy. I simply went around the block to the scrap yard and dug out about 100 feet of 1.5" square steel tubing with a .125" wall thickness. Tig welded on 1/2 npt ports meant for hydraulic cylinder repair every 10 feet along the wall and made and tigged on some end caps. I run 170 psi and it's lasted for a long time.

 

[Mr1Fixit]

Thanks much for your advice.
I mentioned in previous posts that will be using
Quincy 5HP Four Cylinder Two Stage compressor and 60 gallon tank. There is an air filter on incoming air to the compressor.
Between the Compressor and Tank I have a "AfterCooler with a AirFilter and Water Seperator & drain"
This will help with mositer removal after the compressor and before entering the Tank.
After the Tank I have 50' of "L" Copper pipe in an up & down configuratation - Seven 6' sections with moisturer drain valves at the bottom of each section.
This will help with any condensatation in the air after the Tank and before the Refrigerated Dryer. This Refrigerated Dryer should have all the remaining moister out, but to make sure I also have Air Filters and Water Seperators(desicant) before the air goes into the Creakote System or the Media Blasting station. So we have Four redundant moisture removal cleaning sections before the air gets to the Cerakote/Media for Blasting/or parts cleaning.
Expensive but will have top grade DRY air for the operatation and piping that should last for many years.
Thanks again
Len & Jill

You're welcome - depending on how much air you actually use and when, you should have an automatic or easy to operate manual drain for your receiver. The automatic drains are either float or timer operated. The timer type have to have power.

 

[2buffalo]

Man you fellers are fancy. I simply went around the block to the scrap yard and dug out about 100 feet of 1.5" square steel tubing with a .125" wall thickness. Tig welded on 1/2 npt ports meant for hydraulic cylinder repair every 10 feet along the wall and made and tigged on some end caps. I run 170 psi and it's lasted for a long time.

That's funny. Being from the piping industry I never would have thought of using a square pipe. It would also make it easier to tap into a square surface.

 

[tobnpr]

It's the mentality that speaks to "it's never happened to me"; unfortunately, I know a guy that was a year ahead of me in my Steamfitter apprenticeship, who was allowed to use pvc as the delivery pipe for an air test on a larger system, who was injured so severely it ended his career! It happened when the pvc delivery pipe either came unsecured or while securing it under pressure. Plastic projectiles ripped through him. His life was dramatically changed in an instant…

Of course, I know there are people that go out in the ocean all the time unprepared - not enough life jackets, radio not functioning, GPS not working, no radar in the fog, bilge pumps not tested… Sure most come back (with luck) unscathed, but every season I'll hear 2-3 distress calls -some second hand/relayed about a boat going down, people in the water, or a panic call and needing a tow from offshore and some not knowing where they are… Even worse; too small of a boat for conditions and people drowning.

The neck's starting to split and there's fifteen reloads on this brass, but it's got a few more left in it...