Air Compressor - Piping for Gunsmithing Equipment

[Mrvmax]

If I were doing it I would use 1/2" 316 SS tubing with Swagelok or Parker fittings. But, I have been using this stuff at work for decades now. Copper will work but eventually you will get oxidation, the 316 will outlast you but with current metal prices will probably be cost prohibitive.

 

[ntsqd]

Man you fellers are fancy. I simply went around the block to the scrap yard and dug out about 100 feet of 1.5" square steel tubing with a .125" wall thickness. Tig welded on 1/2 npt ports meant for hydraulic cylinder repair every 10 feet along the wall and made and tigged on some end caps. I run 170 psi and it's lasted for a long time.

um yeah.......
Having seen what square does when pressurized, no thanks. Hint: it tries to become round. There are very good reasons why any pressurized piping is round.

 

[2buffalo]

If I were doing it I would use 1/2" 316 SS tubing with Swagelok or Parker fittings. But, I have been using this stuff at work for decades now. Copper will work but eventually you will get oxidation, the 316 will outlast you but with current metal prices will probably be cost prohibitive.

The SS pipe is actually cheaper than copper as long as you are not getting CFOS or Electropolished. It's the fittings that will kill you on that set up.

 

[Mrvmax]

The SS pipe is actually cheaper than copper as long as you are not getting CFOS or Electropolished. It's the fittings that will kill you on that set up.

There are dozens of copycat companies to buy the fittings from. I don't pay attention to prices but I'm sure they are less than Swagelok and Parker.

 

[ntsqd]

Swage-lock/clone fittings & 316 SST tube for the air system. Next we're going to try to persuade Coyote that he really should be using Lista cabinets for all of his shop work bench and storage needs. Mostly because it's what all of the kool kids use.

 

[DakotaFire101]

That's funny. Being from the piping industry I never would have thought of using a square pipe. It would also make it easier to tap into a square surface.

Yeah I didn't even think about yield strength of the steel I just knew that I can weld anything air tight and I had access to a bunch of pipe thread ports and quick couplers so I cobbled it together and it works beautifully. You'd need some pretty heavy wall tubing to tap directly into the pipe and get enough thread engagement. That's why I used the ports

 

[Snakebait]

I worked in a factory where steel pipe was used for primary air line. Not good! Rust was a real problem, and it plugged offices and solenoids. The air was compressed with a screw 35 hp compressor and refrigeration dryer. SS pipe is probably best if you can find it reasonably priced.

 

[Mrvmax]

Swage-lock/clone fittings & 316 SST tube for the air system. Next we're going to try to persuade Coyote that he really should be using Lista cabinets for all of his shop work bench and storage needs. Mostly because it's what all of the kool kids use.

If he wants to do it once then that is the way. Some climates (like where I am at) would not be conducive to anything that rusts or corrodes. I will have to read through the thread and see all your great ideas and compare.

 

[Gater]

If he wants to do it once then that is the way. Some climates (like where I am at) would not be conducive to anything that rusts or corrodes. I will have to read through the thread and see all your great ideas and compare.

Coming from a retired fitter go with the copper it's easy to solider and you can add as many air stations as needed with ease.

 

[Coyote Shadow Tracker]

Hello everyone

Thanks much for everyone's advice.
I mentioned in previous posts that will be using
Quincy 5HP Four Cylinder Two Stage compressor and 60-gallon tank.
There is an air filter on incoming air to the compressor.
Between the Compressor and Tank, I have an "AfterCooler with an Air Filter and Water Separator & drain.
This will help with moister removal after the compressor and before entering the Tank.
The Tank will have a moister drain. We may or may not put an electronic drain on the tank depending on the amount of moister. The air going into the tank from the compresser will be from our basement shop, which is climate controlled between 45-50% or less Humidity.
After the Tank I have 50' of "L" Copper pipe in an up & down configuration - Seven 6' sections with moisture drain valves at the bottom of each section.
This will help with condensation in the air after the Tank and before the Refrigerated Dryer.
The 4th step is a Refrigerated Dryer and water drain.
This Refrigerated Dryer should have all the remaining moister out.
Then the air will be delivered through Cooper "L" pipe(1/2" & 3/4") to several stations that will have Air Filters and Water Separators (desiccant) before the air goes into Quick Disconnect banks with coiled air hoses along with a Hose Reel system to have access to air outside the house.
I plan on Silver Soldering/Brazing all Copper Connections that are not threaded.
The Creakote/Painting System along with an inside and outside Media Blasting station will have "Clean DRY Air".
So we have "Five" redundant moisture removal cleaning sections before the air gets to any operation. Another plus is the piping will also give extra air storage along with the 60 gallon tank, not that we will need it for mostly Cerakoting/Painting, but will help with the Media Blasting Cabinet or outside Blasting unit.
Thanks again for everyone's input. A lot of helpful ideas!!!
God Bless
Len & Jill

 

[Kmccord]

After all of that piping, filtering and refrigeration, you should never have a micron of moisture anywhere in that system. Those drain valves may never need to be opened.

 

[NVGuide]

It has been mentioned a couple time already but OSHA will have a HeyDay in your shop if you are in business and use PVC (SCH 40 or 80). I don't care for those pencil pushing jerks but in this case they were right. I had a spray in bed liner business and I piped my shop with schedule 80. 18 months after I opened my doors, I got a surprise inspection from them. They gave me 10 business days to remove the PVC and replace with iron pipe or copper. I was rather miffed because I had been using my set up for 18 months with zero issues. Two days after the surprise inspection, one of my employees ran the handle of a floor jack into the pressurized air line. It promptly exploded sending shrapnel all over the shop. Thankfully no one was injured. Lesson learned. I replaced everything with an iron pipe tree and copper drops as others have mentioned with multiple drains for condensation. Worked great for 10+ years before I sold the business.
JMHO
Good luck.

 

[Rhett Crider]

Shooting pigeons in the rafters by the PVC with a pellet gun doesn't work either.

 

[Mike Matteson]

It has been mentioned a couple time already but OSHA will have a HeyDay in your shop if you are in business and use PVC (SCH 40 or 80). I don't care for those pencil pushing jerks but in this case they were right. I had a spray in bed liner business and I piped my shop with schedule 80. 18 months after I opened my doors, I got a surprise inspection from them. They gave me 10 business days to remove the PVC and replace with iron pipe or copper. I was rather miffed because I had been using my set up for 18 months with zero issues. Two days after the surprise inspection, one of my employees ran the handle of a floor jack into the pressurized air line. It promptly exploded sending shrapnel all over the shop. Thankfully no one was injured. Lesson learned. I replaced everything with an iron pipe tree and copper drops as others have mentioned with multiple drains for condensation. Worked great for 10+ years before I sold the business.
JMHO
Good luck.

Thanks, I had it wrong. Never to late to learn.