15x power binos

Rich you wrote it on this page you tested scopes smokey and hot. You claimed turning up power helped clarify chart on 93 degree day do you now recall. I called the Bushnell unbeatable because you have been bragging your 6500 4.5-30 scope up for about a year now. I stated what you see on a lower power will be brighter at low light then the image seen at a higher power. What I am wanting to say is the Image will appear larger but not as bright. You could see the antler at 131yds on 6x but probably not count the points like you could on 12. however the antlers would appear brighter on 6 then 12. The reason as we all know is that the higher the power the closer the image appears to us. However we would need some very large objective lenses to brighten up the image on15 or what ever high power. To match the brightness on6 and a 50 mil objective. This you have to agree with.
 
Rich you wrote it on this page you tested scopes smokey and hot. You claimed turning up power helped clarify chart on 93 degree day do you now recall. I called the Bushnell unbeatable because you have been bragging your 6500 4.5-30 scope up for about a year now. I stated what you see on a lower power will be brighter at low light then the image seen at a higher power. What I am wanting to say is the Image will appear larger but not as bright. You could see the antler at 131yds on 6x but probably not count the points like you could on 12. however the antlers would appear brighter on 6 then 12. The reason as we all know is that the higher the power the closer the image appears to us. However we would need some very large objective lenses to brighten up the image on15 or what ever high power. To match the brightness on6 and a 50 mil objective. This you have to agree with.

Golf clap please. Thanks. What I've been trying to say. I get it will be brighter at lower power but I need to be able to distinguish differences in rack characteristics, which magnification is needed. Thank you sir
 
a certain web site (who I will not name) that discusses optics has a few people who vehemently insist that you need to turn up the magnification as the light dims. I've argued with them too, as have others, and got nowhere.

I've performed my own low light tests with a number of high quality optics. In every case, as the light dims, the magnification needs to be turned down to gather light and see clearly.

Of course, I'm not talking about 20 minutes before sunset "dark". I'm talking about the last possible moments of shooting light.
Unfortunately facts are often uncomfortable things for people unwilling to accept that which goes against what they already believe.

I'll correct you on one thing. Nothing changes the amount of light that is gathered by the objective, it can only gather than which is available and focus it on the inner lens.

That is why it gets dimmer as you increase the magnification.

Other than that you are spot on.
 
Did WildRose write the optics hunting bible??? You know engineers manufacture all kinds of designs everyday. Per drawings/calculations there final drawing should work, but once in the field is a different story. I agree less mag @ low light will be clear but for MY situation I need enough magnification to determine a specific buck, yes it might be a little more grainy but I'll be closer to the animal and will be able to decipher better against the antler characteristics. BOOM
 
Golf clap please. Thanks. What I've been trying to say. I get it will be brighter at lower power but I need to be able to distinguish differences in rack characteristics, which magnification is needed. Thank you sir
When more power is needed to see things better ( closer ) in dim light, and still see plainly you need to also increase the size of your objective lenses along with your power or buy something that possibly has much better coatings on the lenses, or both ! Look up the site I listed in # 105, this clearly states what you need ! Going Hunting for heavens sake ! Good luck AD !
 
Did WildRose write the optics hunting bible??? You know engineers manufacture all kinds of designs everyday. Per drawings/calculations there final drawing should work, but once in the field is a different story. I agree less mag @ low light will be clear but for MY situation I need enough magnification to determine a specific buck, yes it might be a little more grainy but I'll be closer to the animal and will be able to decipher better against the antler characteristics. BOOM

I didn't have to write the bible, I read and understood it.

Bigger is not brighter and it isn't clearer unless you use another light source such as a spotlight the only light available is the ambient light from the sun, moon, and stars.

I hunt every day, I don't have to go anywhere other than out my front door and I can sit on the porch and type here while I do so.

How about this, try learning something for a change, that's why we're here, to help people like you that obviously need it.
 
Listen Leroy I don't need help, and your advice is 100 percent off topic from what I need. You're just trying to prove a point and not offer advice. My advice was asked for a good 15x bino, your advice is for apparently no bino or 1-3x I really don't know but anyways I have come to conclusions. That I would like a 12x bino. But I wish you could read and see i understand lower mag is brighter, but that doesnt deter the fact that I still need magnification to tell which buck I'm looking at. I'm not out west just hunting 10s n thousands of acres for any big buck, I'm here in South Carolina hunting a handful of hitlists bucks that I want to able to identify at low light out to approximately 300 yards. Which I used for years a pair of 8x56 swaro habicht binos(still have) but i can you my vortex 10x42s can identify objects better later. I don't understand how hard headed you can be all you want to do is say I'm wrong and talk about physics. Sometimes you have to get your hands dirty and test the waters to find out the facts and not just be a physics teacher. Fact at 300 yards low light a 3x ain't going to deter the difference of a mature 18" buck vs 16" buck, where a quality pair of 12x will. And if you say I'm wrong I'll go ahead and add your eyes must be brown cause you're full of $#;+
 
I have a pair of 15x Minox binocs (huge objective lenses but can't remember the exact size) and although they're great I'm not sure they're any better in low light than my 10x40 Zeiss.

In low light it's not only the size of the objective lens but it's also the quality of the optics with quality trumping quantity every time.

Also if you're going to be evaluating racks with 15x binocs you will NEED something to hold them very steady such as a tripod.
 
I have a pair of 15x Minox binocs (huge objective lenses but can't remember the exact size) and although they're great I'm not sure they're any better in low light than my 10x40 Zeiss.
I mentioned earlier I'm going with 12xs probably the meostar he 12x50s. Yes everyone's good ad ice convinced me I wouldn't have good enough anchor points in the deer stand to steady a 15x
In low light it's not only the size of the objective lens but it's also the quality of the optics with quality trumping quantity every time.

Also if you're going to be evaluating racks with 15x binocs you will NEED something to hold them very steady such as a tripod.
 
I have a pair of 15x Minox binocs (huge objective lenses but can't remember the exact size) and although they're great I'm not sure they're any better in low light than my 10x40 Zeiss.
In low light it's not only the size of the objective lens but it's also the quality of the optics with quality trumping quantity every time.

Also if you're going to be evaluating racks with 15x binocs you will NEED something to hold them very steady such as a tripod.

Yes I was made aware that 15x would be hard to steady from anchor points in a stand(good advice from this forum), therefor I plan on going with 12x. Probably going with the meostar hds 12x50.
 
I'm sure they'll be good but I'll point out something here regarding what I actually use in the field and I'm sure I'll get a lot of flak for saying it but what I actually use in my box stands is a pair of 8x20 Zeiss binoculars. They're very light and easy to carry and even with my Nightforce scopes I can see just as well as my scope until I lose shooting light. I've carried Zeiss 10x50 binoculars and although they're better in low light the difference seems to be so small as to be insignificant. I'm being serious here. We're talking maybe 2-3 more minutes of shooting light but my scope will let me down before the binoculars anyway.

When the light fades it fades so fast that the difference between can see and can't see is a matter of just a couple of minutes.

Once again quality trumps quantity every time. If you use inexpensive optics vs quality optics then that's when you actually see a measurable difference in low light.

I've compared same brand and same quality scopes with 40mm and 50mm objectives and I couldn't tell the difference between the brightness or clarity in low light and nobody with me could either. We're probably talking in the very very low percentage difference. But once you start comparing different quality and brands then VOILA you start seeing huge differences.

A LOT of it is related to the lens coatings which is so fragile in any optic that extreme care in cleaning is critical or damage can result.

This is all my opinion only and is represented as nothing more than that but I'm one that tends to always be skeptical of "common knowledge" and more likely to try to find out for myself and these are my true opinions unaffected by "common knowledge" after over 50 years of big game hunting with optics.
 
Austin I spend over 300 days a year in the field and putting hundreds of coyotes, hogs, and the legal maximum number of deer in the freezer every year.

I also put a decade of service in the military hunting people.

I have both the experiencing and the education which is why I spend my time here trying to help other people.

In order to learn something you have to be willing to admit what you don't know and listen to those who do. You came to this forum asking for help and quite a few of us have done our best to help you but in reality, you came here with your mind made up looking for affirmation, not an education.

Go waste your money if that's what you want to do but the results will be the same, you can't change the physics, there's only so much light to work with and every time you step up in magnification the picture is is going to get darker and the resolution will get poorer.
 
Austin I spend over 300 days a year in the field and put over a hundred animals in the freezer doing so.

I also put a decade of service in the military hunting people.

I have both the experiencing and the education which is why I spend my time here trying to help other people.

In order to learn something you have to be willing to admit what you don't know and listen to those who do. You came to this forum asking for help and quite a few of us have done our best to help you but in reality, you came here with your mind made up looking for affirmation, not an education.

Go waste your money if that's what you want to do but the results will be the same, you can't change the physics, there's only so much light to work with and every time you step up in magnification the picture is is going to get darker and the resolution will get poorer.

Well hope your service was for the states if so thank you. I understand the resolution declines as magnification increases. I UNDERSTAND yes ill say again I UNDERSRAND but my point for the 15th so time with YOU is I HAVE TO DECIPHER BETWEEN BUCKS. At low/last light at a fair distance the lower magnification will not, I'll say it again WILL NOT allow me to decipher between a good and great buck that have similar character.

Other notes. Yes you do this for a living, I wish I had that option, but instead I work at a nuclear plant which has allowed me to make enough money to purchase my own land that is less than 3 miles away from work as a crow flies. I live to hunt whitetails followed by brown bass(smallies) with that being said I'm either on the water or in the woods 250 days a year. As I am at work now I'll leave at 615 and be in my stand by 645. I live for it. I as well process, harvest several animals a year(mainly deer). Don't know how many but I can say between the wife and I we put around 6-800lbs of meat a year in the freezer. That's fish as well. Anyways how bout you for once tell me the optics i should get I've been waiting for about oh 120 posts
 
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