15x power binos

[Austin Dial]

I'll also throw out that hunting a green food plot here in Carolina with a crescent moon that's going to give me light to where if I can judge a bucks rack i could shoot all night long when that moon is up, my point bringing this up is there will be extra light the majority of time I hunt. And with a green background that helps, I'm just throwing out other variables that out west might not be present that can benefit me in my situation

 

[Rich Coyle]

Rich you wrote it on this page you tested scopes smokey and hot. You claimed turning up power helped clarify chart on 93 degree day do you now recall. I called the Bushnell unbeatable because you have been bragging your 6500 4.5-30 scope up for about a year now. I stated what you see on a lower power will be brighter at low light then the image seen at a higher power. What I am wanting to say is the Image will appear larger but not as bright. You could see the antler at 131yds on 6x but probably not count the points like you could on 12. however the antlers would appear brighter on 6 then 12. The reason as we all know is that the higher the power the closer the image appears to us. However we would need some very large objective lenses to brighten up the image on15 or what ever high power. To match the brightness on6 and a 50 mil objective. This you have to agree with.

I agree the whole "picture" is brighter but the object of looking through the optics can't be seen on the lower magnification setting. That's why when the Swarovski owner came over he had to turn up his z6 to 15X to see the antlers. They were just not clearly visible on a lower setting.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Just remembered something. When I first started comparing optics I had no idea about anything except Tascos were good enough. Then one day I could see the deer but could not make if the antlers were legal or not. That's when I started buying better glass. The idea the image gets "grainy" is not my experience with the better Leupold, Swarovski, Bushnell, or Nightforce. My Nightforce 12-42X56 beat them all in bright day or low light.

 

[Riflehunter1776]

Unfortunately facts are often uncomfortable things for people unwilling to accept that which goes against what they already believe.

I'll correct you on one thing. Nothing changes the amount of light that is gathered by the objective, it can only gather than which is available and focus it on the inner lens.

That is why it gets dimmer as you increase the magnification.

Other than that you are spot on.

no argument from me.

 

[Buck Buster]

Everything Austin needs to know has been said ! Including the size glasses he should get if he wants more power and clarity combined ! The choice is now his !!​

 

[Austin Dial]

Everything Austin needs to know has been said ! Including the size glasses he should get if he wants more power and clarity combined ! The choice is now his !!​

Yes thanks everybody I'm sorry my first thread had to wind up like this and just seems to keep carrying on. anyways my conclusion from all of this is if I'm going to be sitting in a stand I need to have a pair of 8x & 12x. Which is no problem it just might take a while before I'm able to buy both

 

[yobuck]

The problem is YoBuck that the op has used top quality scopes in 15 power range and he could not see well enough. How does he figure the bino's will help him. He needs the proper corrective lenses for his eyes to see any better. This is whether he stays with 10x bino's or goes to 12 or 15 power. I can only guess but a 200 dollar pair of glasses would likely solve his whole problem.

It goes without saying that his eyes should be corrected first, as he wont get proper results till he does regardless of the optics he chooses. Ive been there and done it and have seen the difference eye surgery makes. But he is fully aware of that, so it's a non issue at least here.
Comparing optics as most of us do during normal daylight hours works well, but apparently not for those who are trying to squeeze out the very last bit of light there is. Most of us are looking for what we feel to be the best image from the optics we use.
And thats where the argument over buying the best enters into the mix.
But I can well understand and also attest to the fact that sometimes we don't need the best and clearest view, we just need to know what were looking at.
And thats what the OP is looking for.
I mentioned having numerous sets of spotting scopes in brackets, which the vast majority of all PA long rangers use for hunting. I also mentioned having 15, 20 30 and 40x eyepieces for my 77mm
Kowas. I will as a rule use the lowest power I can get by with because of clarity, and that is 15x.
But on some days especially at longer distances, ill use the 20 or 30 wide angles, and especially for calling hits when were shooting. The 40xs never get used except for one reason, that being to identify. Sometimes a deer might be laying at a long distance away in thick laurel, or they might be partially obscured by trees, and you can stare at them for an hour without knowing what it is.
Put the 40s in and your looking thru a fishbowl compared to the 15s or 20s, but all you need is a small glimps when it moves its head, and you've got him. Or you can chalk it up as a doe, and move on.
And thats due to the advantage of having the power when you need it.

 

[Target Tamers]

Wow, a lot has been said on this topic, and I don't think you need any more "advice" thrown your way.

But, I did want to say a couple things. I totally agree on Meopta glass quality. They use Schott glass that is the same as what Zeiss uses, but they're cheaper than Zeiss.

On the higher-end of the spectrum, Swarovski is one of my favorites. It really comes down to glass quality to see those details you're after. High power with enough clarity to discern details is difficult for some manufacturers to achieve (so many factors involved), so I'd recommend you keep doing what you're doing - stay brand specific.

Of course, you know what you're willing to compromise on be it weight, exit pupil, etc, to achieve what you're after such as perhaps a higher light transmission rate and twilight factor with higher power. It will take some intentional shopping and scrutiny on the specs to determine what you're going to get if you can't test out the product in person.

On the cheaper end of the scale, I highly recommend Maven Optics. You'll save some money here, the glass is fantastic, and they offer binos all the way from 8x to 15x all with ED glass.

Quality optics are one of those things that I never find to be a waste of money. I'm sure you'll continue to enjoy whatever you choose after your surgery. Goodluck!

 

[yobuck]

Wow, a lot has been said on this topic, and I don't think you need any more "advice" thrown your way.

But, I did want to say a couple things. I totally agree on Meopta glass quality. They use Schott glass that is the same as what Zeiss uses, but they're cheaper than Zeiss.

On the higher-end of the spectrum, Swarovski is one of my favorites. It really comes down to glass quality to see those details you're after. High power with enough clarity to discern details is difficult for some manufacturers to achieve (so many factors involved), so I'd recommend you keep doing what you're doing - stay brand specific.

Of course, you know what you're willing to compromise on be it weight, exit pupil, etc, to achieve what you're after such as perhaps a higher light transmission rate and twilight factor with higher power. It will take some intentional shopping and scrutiny on the specs to determine what you're going to get if you can't test out the product in person.

On the cheaper end of the scale, I highly recommend Maven Optics. You'll save some money here, the glass is fantastic, and they offer binos all the way from 8x to 15x all with ED glass.

Quality optics are one of those things that I never find to be a waste of money. I'm sure you'll continue to enjoy whatever you choose after your surgery. Goodluck!

ED glass, Flurite glass, and I suppose other names for it depending upon the manufacturer.
Fact is it is a big rip off that the government allows manufacturers to get away with due to advertising laws.
Side by side you wont tell which has it and which dosent. Check what im saying, and you will find that with all the glass involved in your favorite very expensive spotting scope, only the inner element of the multi element objective lens is Flurite glass.
All the rest of the glass used in that scope is the same as the non flurite model. It is not as strong and durable as the regular glass which is the reason for it's very limited use in the scopes. There are also different grades and quality of it, so don't rely on it all being of the best quality.

 

[jpfrog]

Check what im saying, and you will find that with all the glass involved in your favorite very expensive spotting scope, only the inner element of the multi element objective lens is Flurite glass.
All the rest of the glass used in that scope is the same as the non flurite model.

Hey yobuck- this got me curious, as I'm in the market for some new glass and thus far am leaning toward the expensive side of the street. You have any links where this can be checked and read into further?

 

[yobuck]

Hey yobuck- this got me curious, as I'm in the market for some new glass and thus far am leaning toward the expensive side of the street. You have any links where this can be checked and read into further?

Well it's good that your at least curious. Normally people rely on what others claim, and quite often the others are like you, they just went with what they heard and never did any comparisons before they bought. And now that they have it's just natural to assume that since they paid the best they have the best. You cant rely on people at places like Cabelas for example to have more knowledge than you. Fact is often times they might even have less. If you can find one of each to compare side by side you wont need any more convincing. I had a very good friend who was a Kowa rep in that he was a dealer for their products. So we did get to compare all the good stuff. I would do some research other than by asking questions of people like me and others here.
There is an excellent small book on optics called
(Sport Optics) written by Alan Hale who was the
CEO of Celestron Optcs, and is written based on his 50 years experience on the subject of all the various optics we as hunters use. By all means search out that book and read it if you want to improve your knowledge. You will find that my comments on that subject came from reading that book, and by actuall verification by comparing the products.

 

[Josebigsky]

I recently looked at this myself. I ended up buying a pair of 15 power Leupolds can't remember the model but they were about $500 retail. I compared these Leupolds to the Vortex Vultures our side of the store on a tripod looking at the mountains here in Bozeman MT. Hands down Leupold was better in direct comparison of clarity and ability to see definition. Then I took them on a hunt. Totally a disappointment at low light at 400 yards. Could not make out antler points to make a determination if bucks were shooters or not. I returned them. I ended up biting the bullet and getting Swarovski SLC 10x42. Took the Swaro's back out on same hunt I could easily make out antler points well into twilight at 400 yards. I learned magnification with poor glass just makes the deer blobs and their horns larger not clear enough to determine shooter or not. My two cents.

 

[Rich Coyle]

I recently looked at this myself. I ended up buying a pair of 15 power Leupolds can't remember the model but they were about $500 retail. I compared these Leupolds to the Vortex Vultures our side of the store on a tripod looking at the mountains here in Bozeman MT. Hands down Leupold was better in direct comparison of clarity and ability to see definition. Then I took them on a hunt. Totally a disappointment at low light at 400 yards. Could not make out antler points to make a determination if bucks were shooters or not. I returned them. I ended up biting the bullet and getting Swarovski SLC 10x42. Took the Swaro's back out on same hunt I could easily make out antler points well into twilight at 400 yards. I learned magnification with poor glass just makes the deer blobs and their horns larger not clear enough to determine shooter or not. My two cents.

I had the same experience many years ago. Like someone posted a brightly lit blob is still a brightly lit blob.

 

[WildRose]

Well hope your service was for the states if so thank you. I understand the resolution declines as magnification increases. I UNDERSTAND yes ill say again I UNDERSRAND but my point for the 15th so time with YOU is I HAVE TO DECIPHER BETWEEN BUCKS. At low/last light at a fair distance the lower magnification will not, I'll say it again WILL NOT allow me to decipher between a good and great buck that have similar character.

Other notes. Yes you do this for a living, I wish I had that option, but instead I work at a nuclear plant which has allowed me to make enough money to purchase my own land that is less than 3 miles away from work as a crow flies. I live to hunt whitetails followed by brown bass(smallies) with that being said I'm either on the water or in the woods 250 days a year. As I am at work now I'll leave at 615 and be in my stand by 645. I live for it. I as well process, harvest several animals a year(mainly deer). Don't know how many but I can say between the wife and I we put around 6-800lbs of meat a year in the freezer. That's fish as well. Anyways how bout you for once tell me the optics i should get I've been waiting for about oh 120 posts

I told you in my first two or three posts. I'll repeat it one last time. You need larger objectives and higher quality glass, not more magnification.

Larger is not brighter, it can't be clearer, all it is, is larger and darker.

You only have so much light to work with and every time you step up in magnification you divide the available light that will eventually reach your eyes.

I guide hunts for a living, I hunt for myself and to feed several families and shoot predators and varmints to protect crops and livestock.