15x power binos

[Austin Dial]

In the real world as the light fades you have to dial back the power to resolve the image, that's the whole point of the discussion about low light performance.

As we've discussed one of the ways to increase that performance in low light is with larger objective lenses and higher quality glass. Of coarse with a larger objective

That doesn't change the fact however that as the light fades, even with the best quality glass and largest of objectives you have to dial back the power to resolve an image. If you don't you just end up with a bigger, darker, fuzzier image.

But sometimes you need that bigger darker fuzzy image up close to tell a difference between bucks

 

[sp6x6]

Heres my input. I have alot of optics Kowa 82 spotter,Leo,Ziess Lieca,March,Swaro. I have a wood lot behind my place taken many a large whitetail there,glass it all the time treeline 500-600 yrds.My 15 x50 Vortex outglass my 10x32 Els in the evening.Many of my friends feel the same after looking They weigh 28 0z. And i got them brand new for $500 as I know the dealer.I have them on a bino stud and use on my outdoorsman pistol grip that ive had for about 10-15 years,my main glassing from rig set up.Used this set up all over the world.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Dude. You're wrong. Stop. A spotting scope has a larger objective and gathers exponentially more light than binoculars.

Exponentially more light? Some of the binoculars and scopes I use have objectives larger than my son-in-law's spotting scope. Now what?

In the real world as the light fades you have to dial back the power to resolve the image, that's the whole point of the discussion about low light performance.

Not in my experience. I'm not interested in seeing the whole countryside. Only the detail that the available light does show.

As we've discussed one of the ways to increase that performance in low light is with larger objective lenses and higher quality glass.

That is not possible when one is in the field and wants to judge some detail. One uses what he has, and in my case works in quite low light. Especially when I turn up the magnification.

That doesn't change the fact however that as the light fades, even with the best quality glass and largest of objectives you have to dial back the power to resolve an image. If you don't you just end up with a bigger, darker, fuzzier image.

Not even close. If you're trying to resolve antler detail turning the magnification down is going the wrong direction. That's why guides use spotters. None of my optics get fuzzier as I turn them up. They show more detail of the object I'm trying to see. I sold or gave away all the optics that got fuzzy.

 

[Schnyd112]

Exponentially more light? Some of the binoculars and scopes I use have objectives larger than my son-in-law's spotting now What?.

As expected. In that case it would not apply. Nothing applies the same to every scenario. I used your example then you changed the parameters. Good riddance.

 

[C.O. Shooter]

 

[C.O. Shooter]

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[C.O. Shooter]

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[Buck Buster]

Heres my input. I have alot of optics Kowa 82 spotter,Leo,Ziess Lieca,March,Swaro. I have a wood lot behind my place taken many a large whitetail there,glass it all the time treeline 500-600 yrds.My 15 x50 Vortex outglass my 10x32 Els in the evening.Many of my friends feel the same after looking They weigh 28 0z. And i got them brand new for $500 as I know the dealer.I have them on a bino stud and use on my outdoorsman pistol grip that ive had for about 10-15 years,my main glassing from rig set up.Used this set up all over the world.

10 x 32's have an exit pupil of 3.2 the 15 x 50's have an exit pupil of 3.3 slightly higher, but here you will find the quality of the glass is probably also better in the Vortex brand, making it a better optic in low light situations !

 

[WildRose]

Exponentially more light? Some of the binoculars and scopes I use have objectives larger than my son-in-law's spotting scope. Now what?



Not in my experience. I'm not interested in seeing the whole countryside. Only the detail that the available light does show.



That is not possible when one is in the field and wants to judge some detail. One uses what he has, and in my case works in quite low light. Especially when I turn up the magnification.



Not even close. If you're trying to resolve antler detail turning the magnification down is going the wrong direction. That's why guides use spotters. None of my optics get fuzzier as I turn them up. They show more detail of the object I'm trying to see. I sold or gave away all the optics that got fuzzy.

Rich just give it up, all you're doing is embarrassing yourself, the laws of physics are plain and simple with respect to optics.

When you increase the magnification more light is required to resolve the image nothing you can say to the contrary is true in any respect.

As for the increase in light gathering capability it's simple, do the math yourself using the area of a circle formula.

Start with a 40mm obj and work your way up as far as you want to go. This is why all else being equal the larger objective will give you better image quality in lower light comparing magnification of equal value.

As the light decreases the only way to get a clear image is to reduce the magnification. Increasing it will simply give you a bigger, blurrier, darker image.

 

[WildRose]

10 x 32's have an exit pupil of 3.2 the 15 x 50's have an exit pupil of 3.3 slightly higher, but here you will find the quality of the glass is probably also better in the Vortex brand, making it a better optic in low light situations !

No, you're not ever going to find better glass in vortex optics than Swarovski, they aren't even in the same league.

The difference here is in the objective diameter. The larger the objective the greater the amount of light being gathered and focused on the inner lens.

Compare optics of equal quality, same brand, in the same low light conditions and the bigger objective will win out at the same magnification every time.

 

[Nodak hunter]

Anyways, guess I should of asked with money not being an issue what would ya'll suggest as far as a 15x pair of binoculars, I have trouble viewing antler characteristics through my 10x's out to 150yrds. Yes I do have astigmatism(yes I plan to have surgery spring 2019) which hurts my low light capabilities, What glass/brand would ya'll suggests. I don't want a spotting scope period. All stands are set up in different ways and have several view points which I would need the binos. Thanks again for all of the responses. As stated I want something 15x

I have leupold BX-3 Mojave pro guide HD 12x50. I would recommend them to anyone. I hunt North Dakota I also have a little eye issue going on. I carry these the shoulder straps and walk for miles with no problem. No problems with holding them steady. However sometimes it still helps to brace.

 

[cheechin]

I know this won't help you price wise but I have Leica 10-15 Duovids and I will put them up against 15x Swaros anytime. Plus I can drop down to 10x for "smaller" country.

I'd do whatever I had to to go to the top of the line grade glass. Over 30 years the difference might be $30 year? I can find that!

 

[WildRose]

I know this won't help you price wise but I have Leica 10-15 Duovids and I will put them up against 15x Swaros anytime. Plus I can drop down to 10x for "smaller" country.

I'd do whatever I had to to go to the top of the line grade glass. Over 30 years the difference might be $30 year? I can find that!

Buy once, cry once. A man on a budget will always be better off being patient and saving up for quality glass vs convincing himself that cheaper will be ok.

Worst of all when you try to unload that cheap glass you'll find out how little it is worth on the used market, you'll generally lose half or more of what you have in it and then have to save twice as much again to replace it with better.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Rich just give it up, all you're doing is embarrassing yourself, the laws of physics are plain and simple with respect to optics.

When you increase the magnification more light is required to resolve the image nothing you can say to the contrary is true in any respect.

As for the increase in light gathering capability it's simple, do the math yourself using the area of a circle formula.

Start with a 40mm obj and work your way up as far as you want to go. This is why all else being equal the larger objective will give you better image quality in lower light comparing magnification of equal value.

As the light decreases the only way to get a clear image is to reduce the magnification. Increasing it will simply give you a bigger, blurrier, darker image.

I was thinking the same about you, "just give it up." In the real world some people use 50mm spotting scopes and they still work. You keep ignoring the fact there is enough available light for optics to work.