15x power binos

[WildRose]

How about this-
Let's call this one a tie...you're both stumps.

6 pages of some good experiences and advice thrown in (with a little science sprinkled on). Austin- it seems like you had your mind made up before you posted. Do you even really have a question? Maybe one about brand/model? If verification is what you're after then I'll tell you this "Go get'em Tiger!", then get your eyes fixed when you can.
Now to find that darn unwatch button.

It's not a matter of opinion, it's physics and bad information always needs to be refuted.

 

[Austin Dial]

How about this-
Let's call this one a tie...you're both stumps.

6 pages of some good experiences and advice thrown in (with a little science sprinkled on). Austin- it seems like you had your mind made up before you posted. Do you even really have a question? Maybe one about brand/model? If verification is what you're after then I'll tell you this "Go get'em Tiger!", then get your eyes fixed when you can.
Now to find that darn unwatch button.

Haha, nono don't have my mind made up but I have changed to where I'd prefer a 12x over the 15. But apparently some people think I should have a 3x where I can judge which deer is which at 200 yards in last light, and yes my eyes will be fixed in march

 

[Austin Dial]

Also the forum has changed my mind from vortex to now I'm more looking at meostars

 

[Austin Dial]

physics smysics anyways stick to your 1-4x shooting at last light as mentioned, but anyways I don't hunt open country I hunt my own private property, and I use trail cameras to give deer identities, and as mentioned you have similar deer, due to genetics and at last light I don't want to shoot my 3.5 year old that looks similar to my 4.5 year old therefore I want some optics that will decipher between the two at last light, with enough magnification to tell the difference out to 250 yards, and with my eyes even an 8x aint gunna cut it, where a higher end 12x I feel would. Prove me wrong

 

[Austin Dial]

It's not a matter of opinion, it's physics and bad information always needs to be refuted.

Hey hopefully we can agree we both have good taste in dogs

 

[WildRose]

Hey hopefully we can agree we both have good taste in dogs

Being wrong doesn't make you a bad guy, it just makes you wrong.

Most of us have spent a lifetime working off of bad information we heard from a friend or read on some idiots website on the web who had no idea what he's talking about.

Cute pup.

 

[Austin Dial]

Being wrong doesn't make you a bad guy, it just makes you wrong.

Most of us have spent a lifetime working off of bad information we heard from a friend or read on some idiots website on the web who had no idea what he's talking about.

Cute pup.

Well I'm coming from hands on experience for the past 27 years 4.5 months a year

 

[Austin Dial]

But you keep arguing and don't actually give input on my question as what would be a good glass for low light out to 300 yards you just tell me I don't need something when I say yes I do I have astigmatism that hurts, I have looked through an older pair of 12x50 swaroski my father let me hunt with and they worked but they were heavy as hell

 

[Rich Coyle]

It would be nice and certainly better for the OP to try a few during the time frame he wants to use them.
Another thing to consider is supporting them steady enough to get a clear picture. Frankly 8x is about the max I can hold steady enough to evaluate details without at least resting my elbows on something.
10 to 15x needs a tripod or good support of some type. I have a heavy duty Bogen 3 section walking stick that wont support my 15x glasses steady enough for (me) to determine fine details, especially at longer distances. Theres just too much shake without a tripod.

I use the wire fence 135 yards away to determine if I can make out detail. Two years ago I finally had to switch to 7X for hand held viewing. I sold my beautiful Nikon Monarch 7 8X30 binoculars.

 

[Rich Coyle]

15 power would be worse in the dim light ! The greater the exit pupil the better you can normally see in early morning & late evening situations ! The most expensive glass has special coatings that help with the light transmission, but you said you have trouble seeing in dim light so a 15 power in the same brand binoculars with the 42mm lenses would let less light in making it more difficult to see in dim light ! Exit pupil is derived by dividing the power into the size of the objective lenses, the mm size. Your current pair would be 42 divided by 10 = 4.2 exit pupil while this is pretty good, an exit pupil of 5 or 6 should let more light in making it easier to see in dim light ! A pair of 15 x 80 binoculars would have an exit pupil of 5.3 this would normally be better unless the quality of the glass lenses is poor ! 10 x 50 would have an exit pupil of 5 ! I use a pair of Flake glasses, some people call them tank glasses that are 10 x 80 and they are fabulous in very little light, they have an exit pupil of 8 ! Hope you understand all of this, basically comparing the same quality of glasses the one with the largest exit pupil will allow you to see better in dim light ! You can also research exit pupil yourself if you want to understand it better ! Good luck hunting and be safe !

I have proved many times to anyone who comes by that exit pupil is worthless for evaluating optics. The idea that higher magnification will not last longer is constantly proven wrong by anyone who does a side by side with two equal quality optics. If anyone wants I will post side by side findings.

 

[Rich Coyle]

Rich this is nothing but your imagination at work.

There is only x amount of light available, y amount is gathered by the objective and focused on the lens.

The higher the magnification the lower the resolution because that light is divided with each increase in magnification and dispersed over a larger area.

It's the same reason microscopes require an electric light source instead of just a mirror as you go above 100x.

What you are stating is physically impossible.

Interesting that something that is physically impossible has been proven in the field. One of my .com friends went to Africa. The guide put him on an animal right at last light. He had a 1-6X scope and could not see it at 1X. The guide almost angrily told him, "Turn up the magnification and shoot it!" He turned the scope up to 6X and could easily see it well enough to shoot it.

 

[toddc]

Essentially 4 things affect low light image resolution.
Coating quality and type.
# of lenses.
Size of objective.
Magnification.
Almost everyone commenting here has been correct AND incorrect.
Most have only attributed image resolution to 1 or 2 of these factors, however it is totally related to all 4.
Another huge factor is individual eyesight and the nuances inherit in that issue.
Many people with subpar eyesight will do better with higher magnification especially later in the day. I had 20/500 vision, Lasik corrected to 20/20 and am now getting older and having different issues. The glass I am most effective with has changed as has my eyesight. I usually have at least 5 pairs of glass and 2 spotters in my truck at any 1 time. They all have a place and purpose.



https://www.astronomics.com/binocular-specifications_t.aspx
http://www.backcountrychronicles.com/binoculars-relative-brightness-twilight-factors/

 

[WildRose]

Well I'm coming from hands on experience for the past 27 years 4.5 months a year

Then you've been wrong for 27 years. The physics is irrefutable.

 

[WildRose]

But you keep arguing and don't actually give input on my question as what would be a good glass for low light out to 300 yards you just tell me I don't need something when I say yes I do I have astigmatism that hurts, I have looked through an older pair of 12x50 swaroski my father let me hunt with and they worked but they were heavy as hell

That's not true, read my first replies to you. I told you exactly what would help.