12GA Rounds for Grizz?

I've worked on cars since before I was legally able to drive. If you think about it, a car coming at you, it's shoot the driver or the engine. My first inclination if I was going for the engine, I'd shoot dead center, through the radiator, fan, and what sits behind that? Timing chain. Most V6 and V8 have the timing chain right in front with maybe a metal or even a plastic cover. Engine is toast, may even lock up. Even my Cummins diesel would be ruined. Now you can ventilate the driver at your leisure....
I agree... but... I'm not sure I'd want to stand in front of a speeding vehicle with a shotgun where the vehicle really needs to be range-wise, say within 30 or 50 yards for best effect, putting the shooter between the headlights... ouch! that might leave a mark, and putting any angle on it might defeat your purpose, go for the driver on a passing shot and make the angle work for you.
Especially if a Big Bear is driving it, that is what we were talking about right? Bears. ;) 😂 Just my 0.2 brother... Cheers.
 
I agree... but... I'm not sure I'd want to stand in front of a speeding vehicle with a shotgun where the vehicle really needs to be range-wise, say within 30 or 50 yards for best effect, putting the shooter between the headlights... ouch! that might leave a mark, and putting any angle on it might defeat your purpose, go for the driver on a passing shot and make the angle work for you.
Especially if a Big Bear is driving it, that is what we were talking about right? Bears. ;) 😂 Just my 0.2 brother... Cheers.
Given the choice, I'll take the car over the grizzly racing at me. Every time.
 
I don't see a need for linotype when hardcast lead is being used for bullets. Hardcast lead will not have an issue penetrating any type bone on a big grizzly. Just put the energy behind it and it will do it's job. Engine blocks are much different than bone of any kind.
 
Linotype is what makes "hard cast" hard. Big difference in expansion with even 20% linotype in the alloy used. I started casting in the late 60's. Many of the shotgun slugs are very soft lead leading to massive expansion.
 
Steel would be the best for this purpose I'd think. Coating a steel projectile with epoxy to prevent rust seems like it'd be ideal. Using a sabot for the steel slug to prevent barrel damage would also be necessary. Zero deforming or expansion, only penetration. Cost would be much lower also. Personally I think expansion to a very small degree isn't a bad thing when shooting to stop game. I'm far from an expert in this stuff but it's common sense that if expansion isn't wanted, use a material that has no way of expanding at a cost that's much less than bismuth or linotype material. Steel shot is used for shotshells and works well on waterfowl but being so small, sheds energy allowing the shot to remain in the birds. Heavy steel slugs wouldn't do the same. Without expansion and energy not being dumped into a large heavy boned animal while expanding, a pass thru may occur. Not sure if that's good or bad in the case of a charging bear.
 
The ever-entertaining subject of what to carry for bear protection; after reading the attached I've changed my strategy. (That it supports buying another firearm is a side benefit). I have a (we'll maybe more than one) 45LC with some +P loads that I carry but I'm limited to 6 rounds and they are a bit of a handful. I think a 45acp with +p loads would be a good starting point but I'm leaning toward a 10mm, good performance from commercial ammo, a magazine that holds more rounds, and availability of reasonably (?) priced pistols that I won't mind dragging around outside are pluses.
 

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12ga Winchester Supreme, 3" sabot slugs.
Target is my Browning BPS at 100yds shooting off hand as fast as I could work the action. Ouch.
Leupold 2-7 VX III
 

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The ever-entertaining subject of what to carry for bear protection; after reading the attached I've changed my strategy. (That it supports buying another firearm is a side benefit). I have a (we'll maybe more than one) 45LC with some +P loads that I carry but I'm limited to 6 rounds and they are a bit of a handful. I think a 45acp with +p loads would be a good starting point but I'm leaning toward a 10mm, good performance from commercial ammo, a magazine that holds more rounds, and availability of reasonably (?) priced pistols that I won't mind dragging around outside are pluses.
I prefer Glock G40 in 10MM as a great bear defense choice facilitating chest rig carry, 15+1 capacity with quick extra mags tactical or empty reload, great ammo choices for penetration and recoil levels, easy handling in close quarters, the MOS is optic mount ready, reliable, inexpensive, polymer is weather compatible, good rough duty trigger, etc. G20 offers a 4.6" barrel versus the G40 6.02" for a slightly faster handling/draw option. Only downside is the typical semi-auto issue of unintended contact against muzzle can take it out of battery rendering it useless until re-engaged...possible major liability for bear defense.....not encountered in revolvers.
 
I prefer Glock G40 in 10MM as a great bear defense choice facilitating chest rig carry, 15+1 capacity with quick extra mags tactical or empty reload, great ammo choices for penetration and recoil levels, easy handling in close quarters, the MOS is optic mount ready, reliable, inexpensive, polymer is weather compatible, good rough duty trigger, etc. G20 offers a 4.6" barrel versus the G40 6.02" for a slightly faster handling/draw option. Only downside is the typical semi-auto issue of unintended contact against muzzle can take it out of battery rendering it useless until re-engaged...possible major liability for bear defense.....not encountered in revolvers.
Tyler Freel writes some articles for outdoor life. Guides in Alasks. Last I heard he and friends were leaning toward 10mm with some custom modifications.
I think he is well on his way to get a Grand Slam.

Drop him a note, he is good about returning calls.
 
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