1st Solo Bedding Job

ed209clark said:

Ugh I didn't use enough release agent, any ideas or just destroy this stock and get a new one? it's a Remington sendero(hs stock) and it's stuck good ugh… it shoots fine it just won't come apart… maybe just leave it but it wasn't what I had planned…

Click to expand...

If it is release agent deficiency or mechanical lock, freezing it won't likely help, but I would try that first as it is the least intrusive. Next, heat to the action using a heat gun. You only need to get the action hot as in 300 F max, no need to get it cherry red or anywhere near where temper is affected. Any of the common bedding compounds, including Devcon Steel will soften up so you can pull the action out. Practice on a piece of hardened bedding compound to get the feel for how much heat you need. Heat is also the easy way to remove bedding if you want to redo it.

Good luck and let us know how it works out.

Plastic Steel Putty (A)
Description:
A steel-filled epoxy putty that cures at room temperature and is designed for filling, rebuilding, and bonding metal surfaces.
Intended Use:
Industrial Use: Patching and repairing areas where welding or brazing would be undesirable or impossible
flowable epoxy is needed; duplicating or tracing masters; short run dies and molds
Features:
Applies easily to vertical surfaces
Machinable to metallic finish
Bonds to aluminum, concrete, and many other metals
Resistant to chemicals and most acids, bases, solvents, and alkalis
Limitations:
Suitability of product is determined by the end user for their application and process.
Not recommended for long term exposure to concentrated acids or to organic solvents
Typical
Technical data should be considered representative or typical only and should not be used for specification purposes.
Physical
Properties:
Cured 7 Days @ 75°F (24°C)
Typical Values
Standard Tests
Adhesive Tensile Shear
2,800 psi (19.3 MPa)
Dielectric Constant ASTM D 150
Coefficient of Thermal Expansion (x10-6)
48 in/in.°F (86.4 cm/cm.°C)
Compressive Strength ASTM D 695
Compression Strength
8260 psi (57 MPa)
Cured Hardness Shore D ASTM D 2240
Cured Shrinkage
0.0006 in/in (cm/cm)
Dielectric Constant
67.5
Cure Shrinkage ASTM D 2566
Dielectric Strength
30 volts/mil (1.2 kV/mm)
Modulus of Elasticity ASTM D 638
Flexural Strength
5600 psi (38.6 MPa)
Coef. of Thermal Expansion ASTM D 696
Hardness
85 Shore D
Adhesive Tensile Shear ASTM D 1002
Modulus of Elasticity
8.5 x105 psi (5.9 GPa)
Dielectric Strength, volts/mil ASTM D 149
Solids by Volume
100
Flexural Strength ASTM D 790
Temperature Resistance
Wet: 120°F (49°C); Dry: 250°F (121°C)
Thermal Conductivity ASTM C 177
Thermal Conductivity (x10-3)
1.37 cal/sec.cm.°C

ed209clark said:

Ugh I didn't use enough release agent, any ideas or just destroy this stock and get a new one? it's a Remington sendero(hs stock) and it's stuck good ugh… it shoots fine it just won't come apart… maybe just leave it but it wasn't what I had planned…

Click to expand...

What caliber?

Kmccord said:

Can you provide pics on how you setup your dial indicator to measure deflection/stress? I have tried to get a dial indicator connected, but run into problems with it moving when I touch the rifle prior to releasing the torque on the action screws.

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Pics not necessary as you just put a dial indicatot on the barrel with a clamp extension that comes with the dial indicator set.
I got mine way back to set up back lash in car/truck differentials.You can buy just the 6 to 8 inch extension all by itself as long as it's from the same company as the the one that made the dial indicator.
Place the dial indicator on barrel close to stock,place dial indicator on stock anywhere and tighted stock and watch needle on dial indicator.
If it moves too much try a different spot on stock but make sure stock is securely clamped down so that it does not move.
I learned this from a champion shooter from Louisiana with more trophy's than his shop could display.

quandary said:

Looks great! But boy that's a lot of work. I just paid $280 for a top notch pillar bedding job that got done in 4 days by the smith. I'll be honest I'd just as soon pay the pro to do it and not mess up the an action or stock that costs thousands.

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I'm not doubting you on the price, it's just I don't see how a Smith makes any money by only charging $280. Between the Supplies, the set up and milling out the stock, Prepping the action cleanup while you're bedding it , clean up after it's bedded, more milling and I'm sure there's other things I'm missing. Mine mostly cost 350 to 450…. I'm not happy about paying that much but on all my custom actions that that I've paid for so far have turned out perfect.

Old Rooster said:

Pics not necessary as you just put a dial indicatot on the barrel with a clamp extension that comes with the dial indicator set.
I got mine way back to set up back lash in car/truck differentials.You can buy just the 6 to 8 inch extension all by itself as long as it's from the same company as the the one that made the dial indicator.
Place the dial indicator on barrel close to stock,place dial indicator on stock anywhere and tighted stock and watch needle on dial indicator.
If it moves too much try a different spot on stock but make sure stock is securely clamped down so that it does not move.
I learned this from a champion shooter from Louisiana with more trophy's than his shop could display.

Click to expand...

Yeah, that is my problem is locating a clamp with the arm to connect to my dial indicator. All I have is the magnetic that is used for holding the arm for the indicator.

Kmccord said:

Yeah, that is my problem is locating a clamp with the arm to connect to my dial indicator. All I have is the magnetic that is used for holding the arm for the indicator.

Click to expand...

I believe you can find what you're looking for with this link. https://www.zoro.com/dial-indicators/c/5223/

Justice1327 said:

I'm not doubting you on the price, it's just I don't see how a Smith makes any money by only charging $280. Between the Supplies, the set up and milling out the stock, Prepping the action cleanup while you're bedding it , clean up after it's bedded, more milling and I'm sure there's other things I'm missing. Mine mostly cost 350 to 450…. I'm not happy about paying that much but on all my custom actions that that I've paid for so far have turned out perfect.

Click to expand...

Consider that it was a Manners stock that was order cut for a BAT Vampire action and CarbonSix sendero profile barrel. Everything fit perfectly prior to bedding. The action "bed" and pillar cutting/bedding needed to be done. Nothing in the stock need milling, cutting etc.

ed209clark said:

Ugh I didn't use enough release agent, any ideas or just destroy this stock and get a new one? it's a Remington sendero(hs stock) and it's stuck good ugh… it shoots fine it just won't come apart… maybe just leave it but it wasn't what I had planned…

Click to expand...

Use it lockD together for couple seasons, then just trade it in or sell it lock, stock, and barrel. A good bedding job, a guy shouldn't be taking it apart for little reason anyways

Kmccord said:

Yeah, that is my problem is locating a clamp with the arm to connect to my dial indicator. All I have is the magnetic that is used for holding the arm for the indicator.

Click to expand...

That will work if the magnet is strong.Mount it on top of barrel and position dial indicator on top of stock at any point.I use the stock 2-3 inches from the end of the stock to either side of the barrel channel.Works like a charm.
I have a clamp extension and a magnetic mount.Both work great as some barrels are composit so then the clamp has to be used,otherwise I use the magnetic mount as it is fastest but my tools are in several boxes outside and finding the right tool can be hard sometimes.

Kmccord said:

Well, this is my first solo bedding job, let's see what longtine88 taught me works without his assistance. I taped the dookey out of it to hopefully make cleanup a little easier and quicker. I get to verify if my jig I built to pull it out straight works as well. I think I will leave it in place until Monday afternoon, give it 72hrs to set.

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What action screws did you use during bedding? They look like a machined post if that makes sense. thx!

jbur13 said:

What action screws did you use during bedding? They look like a machined post if that makes sense. thx!

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I used the Forster Stock Inletting Guide screws.

Kmccord said:

I verified the action was level with the stock and also used the vise to move it upside down to clean the mag well, then put it back in place and verified it was still level. I almost purchased some surgical tube from Lowe's, but since I did one using zip ties and it worked good I did the same with this one. I will know Monday afternoon if I need to mill it out and start over.

Click to expand...

This is my way. leave a shelf under the last 3/16" of the tang, wrap tape around the barrel till it won't rock anymore. Put a few reference lines on the barrel so it dont end up canted or not forward or back. And clean the swushed out jb weld off immediately. I do tape it up more on newer nicer stocks like you did. The tape around the barrel makes it sit centered in the channel, that barrel channel was big on mine.
edit-
Ain't nothing to it, yours should be fine. I don't put action screws in mine. If those lines on the barrel are right it will line up just fine

Kmccord said:

I used the Forster Stock Inletting Guide screws.

Stock Inletting Guide Screws

Select screws according to the type of firearm. SIENFI,SIJAP6,SIJAP7,SIMAUS,SIREMI,SISAKO,SISPKR,SIWINC

www.forsterproducts.com

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Thread those in fully and give them a rap with a nylon hammer/mallet.

I'm going to put in the deep freezer and whack it like you said I didn't think of that! I've got a heat gun too!! I'll report back!!! Thanks so much!!!!