I also saw some well one person shoot a 1911 .45 cal and hit 100yds X almost every time.I watch the dude and gal in Australia shoot a .22 LR one mile on youtube.... nuts......
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I also saw some well one person shoot a 1911 .45 cal and hit 100yds X almost every time.I watch the dude and gal in Australia shoot a .22 LR one mile on youtube.... nuts......
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Where you shooting to a mile in CO I want to take my creed to a mile just for kicks.
Do it and learn why the competitors use the big 338s on up. It's the Best way to learn! Of your not competing, just having fun, then even more reason to just go shoot.Starting back about 6 months ago, I started researching a gun and load that would provide some fun, shooting 1 mile..... maybe out to 2,000 yards, on a seriously tight budget. Over and over I read that a .338 bullet was the minimum and it needed a BC over .7 and muzzle velocity close to 2,900 fps. Most authors laughed at anyone trying to do those shots with a 7mm or a 6.5mm.
So I ran the ballistics over and over with ammo off the shelf and hand loads and I was perplexed. I found the 6.5 PRC to be a contender on paper. .... so I bought one. (never mind the issue of finding ammo or even brass)
Look over these numbers below and tell me the 6.5 PRC can't do it... and then tell me why...???
Honestly, I would have gone 7mm Mag, but it takes a 8.5 twist barrel for the 180-190 gr bullets and pretty expensive shooting platform for the 7mm to find its magic... and then you have barrels burning out really, really quickly....
I did a 6.5 PRC with glass for less than $1,500. Savage 110 Tactical, Burris XTR II 5-25x50, 20 MOA Rail.
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If you checked everything out on the firearm and OK, next time when going to the range bring a" MAGTRONMETER" to check the magnetic field in the area.Finally took the 6.5 PRC to the range and it was horrible. Straight up horrible.
3-4 MOA..... I ain't kidding.
It would throw three bullets sub-MOA and then a bullet 4" to the south west. Then two bullets on the bullseye and then two bullets 5" to the north east. Completely unpredictable. I checked the scope mounts and everything, every shot was tight and solid.
Very frustrating.
A custom gun maker was shooting next to me and he kept encouraging me, to keep shooting. He claimed that it really takes 100 round to 'burn in a barrel'.
100 rounds... are you friggin kidding me? 6.5 PRC is over a $100 a box. $600 in ammo to break in a barrel? Heck, after 20 rounds my .308 Win Ruger American Tactical was sub-MOA.
I am so ****ed...... I even checked the two main bolts that screw the receiver to the stock. They were hard and rock solid.
Just so you know... it wasn't the shooter.... Dialing in another new ELR, I was shooting a 7mm Mag. It was sub-MOA right from the start. At the end of the day, I put 5 bullets in a Dime at 100 yards.
Is it bedded?Finally took the 6.5 PRC to the range and it was horrible. Straight up horrible.
3-4 MOA..... I ain't kidding.
It would throw three bullets sub-MOA and then a bullet 4" to the south west. Then two bullets on the bullseye and then two bullets 5" to the north east. Completely unpredictable. I checked the scope mounts and everything, every shot was tight and solid.
Very frustrating.
A custom gun maker was shooting next to me and he kept encouraging me, to keep shooting. He claimed that it really takes 100 round to 'burn in a barrel'.
100 rounds... are you friggin kidding me? 6.5 PRC is over a $100 a box. $600 in ammo to break in a barrel? Heck, after 20 rounds my .308 Win Ruger American Tactical was sub-MOA.
I am so ****ed...... I even checked the two main bolts that screw the receiver to the stock. They were hard and rock solid.
Just so you know... it wasn't the shooter.... Dialing in another new ELR, I was shooting a 7mm Mag. It was sub-MOA right from the start. At the end of the day, I put 5 bullets in a Dime at 100 yards.
That's the problem , bed itThe gun has the Savage synthetic stock. I have a bi-pod mounted.
Bedded????.... NOPE... No customizations on stock or bedding.
This is it.....
I bet your forend is flexing and making contact with the barrel. That's pretty common when using a bipod on those factory stocks, especially with a long and heavy barrel.The gun has the Savage synthetic stock. I have a bi-pod mounted.
Bedded????.... NOPE... No customizations on stock or bedding.
This is it.....
I would certainly bed it before wasting any more ammo. Be sure it is torqued to spec as well.The gun has the Savage synthetic stock. I have a bi-pod mounted.
Bedded????.... NOPE... No customizations on stock or bedding.
This is it.....
I bet your forend is flexing and making contact with the barrel. That's pretty common when using a bipod on those factory stocks, especially with a long and heavy barrel.
An easy way to test it is to shim the action in the stock. You can do this with some aluminum muffler tape in a few minutes. You'll basically cut small pieces of the tape and layer it between the bottom side of the action and the stock where the screws go in. You want the little aluminum tape "shims" to rest on top of the aluminum pillars in the stock. You're essentially building extensions to the aluminum pillars in the stock. It should only take 3-4 layers of the aluminum tape.
The goal is to just shim the action enough to get your barrel free floating and far enough away from the stock that it won't make contact with the forend. You'll also want to make sure the rear tang of the action isn't making contact with the stock. Savage actions typically don't like to have any contact between the stock and the rear tang.
If your groups improve after shimming the action and torquing it back into the stock, you can start thinking about bedding the stock or opening up the barrel channel. This is just an easy and inexpensive test to see if bedding or opening the barrel channel will actually help before spending time or money modifying your stock.
I bet your forend is flexing and making contact with the barrel. That's pretty common when using a bipod on those factory stocks, especially with a long and heavy barrel.
An easy way to test it is to shim the action in the stock. You can do this with some aluminum muffler tape in a few minutes. You'll basically cut small pieces of the tape and layer it between the bottom side of the action and the stock where the screws go in. You want the little aluminum tape "shims" to rest on top of the aluminum pillars in the stock. You're essentially building extensions to the aluminum pillars in the stock. It should only take 3-4 layers of the aluminum tape.
The goal is to just shim the action enough to get your barrel free floating and far enough away from the stock that it won't make contact with the forend. You'll also want to make sure the rear tang of the action isn't making contact with the stock. Savage actions typically don't like to have any contact between the stock and the rear tang.
If your groups improve after shimming the action and torquing it back into the stock, you can start thinking about bedding the stock or opening up the barrel channel. This is just an easy and inexpensive test to see if bedding or opening the barrel channel will actually help before spending time or money modifying your stock.
I would certainly bed it before wasting any more ammo. Be sure it is torqued to spec as well.
By the way, I purchased a small roll of stainless sheet that is 4x thicker than tin foil. I use it to shim up the "inards" of my motorcycle shocks. I can cut it with a heavy pair of scissors and I am thinking of using it to shim this gun.
Yeah, I will go ahead and bed it.... and while I am at it, I will probably "Epoxy UP" the for-end of the stock, to get it stiffer.
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