What would you change?

Kinda funny to se all the trigger post as it usually comes after sight,load and time behind the gun for me


I agree! Many years ago, my only centerfire rifle (Winchester Model 88) known for it's terrible trigger that had no aftermarket replacement and I couldn't even begin to hire a gunsmith to help it.....if he could!

The trigger was fairly heavy, some roughness, spongy, with long travel. I'm certainly no great marksman, yet with my developed hand loads could pretty consistently maintain 1" (or slightly less) 5 shot groups at 100 yards. As my "only" rifle ....I learned and adapted!

Perhaps many have never been forced to adapt.....merely replace! memtb
 
I agree! Many years ago, my only centerfire rifle (Winchester Model 88) known for it's terrible trigger that had no aftermarket replacement and I couldn't even begin to hire a gunsmith to help it.....if he could!

The trigger was fairly heavy, some roughness, spongy, with long travel. I'm certainly no great marksman, yet with my developed hand loads could pretty consistently maintain 1" (or slightly less) 5 shot groups at 100 yards. As my "only" rifle ....I learned and adapted!

Perhaps many have never been forced to adapt.....merely replace! memtb
I've had quite a few guns with horrible triggers that I managed with but if I could change one thing on a rifle it would definitely be a better trigger. Why waste time and $$ on load development and shooting with a crappy trigger? Your group size shrinks and is more consistent with a good trigger! Just my thoughts
 
Go get training. The human is always the weakest link in accuracy. It's not arguable. It's a solid fact. Honestly, if one has good fundamentals, they don't need a special trigger unless your splitting hairs. 1/8 moa type hairs.

If you are talking strictly mechanical? Scope. Get a quality scope. It's not a optical device at its primary function, it's a telescopic sight. If you're sight is cheap and finicky, so will your shooting be.

Are you talking specifically mechanical on the rifle? The stock. The reason I suggest that over say, blue printing, or barrels is because a good stock, or even a modular stock compliments fundamentals of marksmanship….the most important thing of accuracy, right? Having the right length of pull, and the right comb height, or more simply a proper setup is critical for the shooter to be consistent.


Blue prints give small gains, and barrels now a days even from the factory are good enough in most instances. My wife took at cheap ruger American off the shelf and shoots 1/4 moa with it for example with no modification other than a cheek riser.

If you're fundementals are solid, you have a decent scope and a rifle set up for you're body…you're good to go. If you get to a point you want to be more competitive, or further your accuracy, then barrels, and blue prints, even triggers and other gizmos can help with that, but they aren't required.
This is a good answer but just looking for change to gun only, if everything is mediocre on the gun but functions fine, also see a lot of triggers, any particular weight you would go for, can be hunting, Target and self defense
 
This is a good answer but just looking for change to gun only, if everything is mediocre on the gun but functions fine, also see a lot of triggers, any particular weight you would go for, can be hunting, Target and self defense
I prefer a 3.5-4 pound trigger on hunting rifles and about half that for a target gun. Poundage doesn't mean much if it's mushy and doesn't break cleanly though
 
any particular weight you would go for, can be hunting, Target and self defense
if you're asking me, I don't go below 1.50 lbs on a single stage trigger. I've placed in nationals in PRS, I was a sniper in the military and I'm still a sniper for the .gov.

Having a gun with a hair trigger is just **** stupid and dangerous, especially if you don't know what you're getting yourself into. In defense, there's a reason why battle rifles and pistols have heavier triggers. There's no tolerance for negligence discharges in the mil. When I was in, you'd get your teeth kicked in if you did that ****.
 
I prefer a 3.5-4 pound trigger on hunting rifles and about half that for a target gun. Poundage doesn't mean much if it's mushy and doesn't break cleanly though
I agree, I have a Kimber with a 7lb trigger that breaks clean and everyone thinks it's like 3lbs when they try it.
 
If you can choose the one best thing you could do to make a firearm shoot better what would it be, which one thing would you change over everything that would make the biggest difference, basically the first thing you would do to make a gun shoot better, but can only do one thing, what's most important.
If someone brings me a rifle and wants it to group better the absolute first thing I do is properly clean the barrel.
I was once just a shoot 10 times a year hunter myself and knew nothing about proper cleaning and sometimes thats all it takes. So its always the first thing but almost never the only thing.
I wont count checking the bore/chamber for straight, checking all scope screws, action screws and general maintenance as thingscuz its just checking on most rifles I've seen.
I would say of the factory hunting rifles I have worked on, the thing that has improved accuracy on most is a good bedding job.
Wasting ammo on load development before any of the above has proven (sadly more than once) to be a waste of precious supplies but load development is definitely the one thing that yields the best results, its just never first
 
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