What frequency of Annealing for best case life and consisitent accuracy?

Thanks jim...I thought that would be the way to handle this brass. Just wanted to confirm it with guys who have been taking the extra steps.

I guess I should have said this sooner but this is 264wm brass. Not that it is different, but I am running into some very old brass. The first batch I traded for (40 cases) zero survived the first loading. And that was with very lite loads.

With as much as I now have I'm going to try to do all I can to preserve it. I have a bunch in the tumbler now that will get sized and stored. Most likely use the "Superspeed" for hunting ammo...who knows how old that stuff is. If it gets jacked out onto the ground no big loss.
 
Anybody have any good youtube video links they can post of correct annealing by hand without one of the fancy machines? Like it has been said, there is SO MUCH info on annealing out there it's hard to sort through.

Generally do people use Tempilaq or not?
 
Slightly off topic;
Can you set a full length die to just bump the shoulder back?

I seen several replies about bumping the shoulder back .002...my dad always said it could be done with the dies we have but I never messed with trying to set a die uo to do it.
 
Anybody have any good youtube video links they can post of correct annealing by hand without one of the fancy machines? Like it has been said, there is SO MUCH info on annealing out there it's hard to sort through.

Generally do people use Tempilaq or not?

This video is compliments of one the members here TwoMore he posted it in my thread about brass drying out...
 
This video is compliments of one the members here TwoMore he posted it in my thread about brass drying out...

I have used the torch+drill+socket method. Works just fine.

I also did the shells standing in a pan of water. Works too.

Those are in-expensive but slow methods.

I liked the results of annealing. The more I anneal the better up to every time. Neck size or shoulder bump with a full length die. Does not matter.

I now have a Ballistic Edge for really big stuff, an Annealeez and I just got a salt bath annealing setup which I have not tried. I have made additional wheels for my Annealeez to expand it's range. 5.7x28FN to 378 Weatherby or Cheytac. Though the Ballistic Edge is easier for the big stuff.
 
Slightly off topic;
Can you set a full length die to just bump the shoulder back?

I seen several replies about bumping the shoulder back .002...my dad always said it could be done with the dies we have but I never messed with trying to set a die uo to do it.



yes you can . I did play around bumping the shoulder by not putting the die against the shellholder . I'd start with the die set about a quarter turn high , then slowly lower the die a whisker at a time and keep measuring my brass ,with the Hornady headspace tool , until I got my .002 bump . this tool measures from the case head to about the center of the shoulder . now I use the redding competition shellholder set and the hornady tool . these shellholders make it easy and repeatable , well worth the money .

http://www.redding-reloading.com/online-catalog/35-competition-shellholder-sets

https://www.hornady.com/reloading/p...gauges/headspace-comparator-anvil-base-kit#!/
 
Anybody have any good youtube video links they can post of correct annealing by hand without one of the fancy machines? Like it has been said, there is SO MUCH info on annealing out there it's hard to sort through.

Generally do people use Tempilaq or not?


I'd recommend tempilaq until you get the hang of what's going on . I don't use it any more . if you're going to start annealing , save all your junk brass to practice , and set up , on . it hurts a lot less to over anneal junk brass , than the good stuff .
 
Hey jim...great tip on using junk brass.

How can you tell if you have over heated it? I seen in the video that the guy grossly over heated one showing what not to do...but if your only heating them a few seconds, how do you know if you've got one too hot?
 
If you are using the torch method, you should be doing it in a dark room and watch for other elements being burned off with your test pieces when you overheat one. You will get a reddish flame coming off of the brass. You do not want to burn off these other metals, so you should heat until just before you see this happen. IMO, in the video he is over-annealing his brass. Difficult to get consistent when using fingers or drill because variables are always changing, such as time and distance from flame, etc... I made one that at least takes those two variables out of it. Probably not as accurate as a salt or lead dip system but works very well!

https://www.longrangehunting.com/threads/homemade-annealing-machine.183370/
 
Also quenching gets thrown out here and there. There is nothing I can find nor any evidence to support that qunechimg has any effect on brass other than the common difference from temp. Meaning it has no effect on hardness or srpimg back. Tbe onlh ways I know of to effecf hardness of brass is manual work hardnening and oxidative harding which can happen from the effects of gunpowder rezidue acting upon the nickle im the brass. Use to see it alot in old stored ammo or fired cases. They tend to split at a high rate stress line of the neck shoulder junction.

The only thing I can see quenchi g doing is arresting heat propigation into the case body.
 
Hey jim...great tip on using junk brass.

How can you tell if you have over heated it? I seen in the video that the guy grossly over heated one showing what not to do...but if your only heating them a few seconds, how do you know if you've got one too hot?


good question CaptnC ,
I'm really not sure how to tell if you over anneal , I've never seemed to have this problem . I've read guys say that after annealing the brass would not hold the bullet tight , so I'm assuming the brass lost all it's spring back from over annealing . I've read guys talk about slightly squeeze the edge of the neck with vice grips . I think they are seeing if the brass has some stiffness and also springs back . I think the reason for vice grips , instead of pliers , is the vice grips can be set so you don't over squeeze the neck . I don't have a good answer for you , maybe one of the other guys will speak up on this . I'd be interested in reading their thoughts .
 
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