NBShooter
Active Member
I'm enjoying every bit of it so far. Tedious, but fun as hell!
What are the easiest mistakes you learned the most from when reloading?
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Example data sheet that you can modify to suit your process. I also shoot my test loads at 25 yards to identify the ones that have the best opportunity to meet my hunting needs which is normally less than 400 yd shots. If it doesn't print at 25 yds it won't magically get better downrange. I can shoot more, chrono the loads easier and change out targets faster obviously. This is not a LR process but starting out it will eliminate a lot of variables that can occur at 100 or 200 yds such as wind, lousy trigger control, lack of focus etc. Shooting at 25 will also help improve trigger control since you see results immediately as well. Also attached a target from MI DNR that is nice load target that you can place in your binder with your load data. Data is your friend in reloading.
Zen Archery
Well-Known Member
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- Dec 27, 2012
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You don't need fine tuned precision loads for 200 yard hunting bullets.
opie#1
Member
This was a real problem for myself, so I went to the local tractor/feed store and bought rubber mats for horse stalls, cut them to fit.
looks nice and not a problem if i drop one.
RogerPA
Well-Known Member
My #1 tip: 50 years ago I was taught to rotate the case half-a-turn after seating the primer, and then gently applying the same amount of pressure again. (In essence seatings it again.). (This can be especially helpful with new brass.)
I can't say I've never had a miss-fire, but only a 3 or 4 out of literally thousands of rounds loaded. You'll likely learn to rub your finger tip over the seated primer and "feel" the depth, but with the "half-turn" method you'll very seldom run across one that's not seated properly. BTW: When a primer is not seated properly, it's totally possible for the firing pin to strike the primer without detonating. It may drive the primer deeper into the primer pocket, but the firm resistance it needs to properly crush and detonate the primer may not be be there. (A friend came to me once with a new rifle and his new brass reloads, out of which during his first range session, only 50% of them had fired. A quick review of his loading procedures proved his primer seating process was not consistent. From then on he started using my "half-turn/2nd seatings" tip and NEVER had another misfire with that rifle.) Have fun with your new hobby. There's nothing like standing over a trophy buck, knowing it was taken with a round you built yourself!
I can't say I've never had a miss-fire, but only a 3 or 4 out of literally thousands of rounds loaded. You'll likely learn to rub your finger tip over the seated primer and "feel" the depth, but with the "half-turn" method you'll very seldom run across one that's not seated properly. BTW: When a primer is not seated properly, it's totally possible for the firing pin to strike the primer without detonating. It may drive the primer deeper into the primer pocket, but the firm resistance it needs to properly crush and detonate the primer may not be be there. (A friend came to me once with a new rifle and his new brass reloads, out of which during his first range session, only 50% of them had fired. A quick review of his loading procedures proved his primer seating process was not consistent. From then on he started using my "half-turn/2nd seatings" tip and NEVER had another misfire with that rifle.) Have fun with your new hobby. There's nothing like standing over a trophy buck, knowing it was taken with a round you built yourself!
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Dont use Hornady one shot or any other spray on case lube or you will get stuck cases at some point. Get a headspace comparator to measure shoulder bump and a bullet comparator to measure base to ogive. Make sure your primers are fully seated or it will throw your measurements off. Dont use too much case lube or you will cause dents in the shoulder when sizing. If you have neck sizing only dies throw them away and buy FL dies and bump the shoulder .002 back. Know your chamber specs so you can turn necks if needed. Measure your seating depth to the lands with the bullet you are using and load a dummy round and keep it with your dies for a reference later. Dont rush anything ever. And last buy good equipment and don't look back. Buy once cry once.
eklarsen
Well-Known Member
Maximum velocity is not the answer to everything.
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
My first and last lesson is 'Buy once, Cry once'.
I had a very good mentor when I started. RIP Sven.
He told me to save, save and save some more until I could buy the equipment I would end up with...........he was right of course.
I bought a RockChucker kit, it cost me a months wages, I had that press, scales and reloading manual for a couple of decades. Then I upgraded to a Supreme, so I could load large cases, the 500NE & 505Gibbs, both use 1" dies.
The original RockChucker was used until I bought an RCBS Turret press, then I lent it permanently to a buddy of mine, he only loads for 2 cartridges and it suits him perfectly.
Since my initial purchase, I have added a few powder measures, electronic scales and specialist trimmers and other case prep tools like flash hole deburrers and primer pocket uniformers.
The basics with good equipment will serve you well to start off, then as your experience and knowledge grows, you can upgrade to more advanced tools.
I, too, have charged 50 cases that were primerless, spilled powder in the loading block and all over the bench is a PITA! Check FIRST!
Cheers.
I had a very good mentor when I started. RIP Sven.
He told me to save, save and save some more until I could buy the equipment I would end up with...........he was right of course.
I bought a RockChucker kit, it cost me a months wages, I had that press, scales and reloading manual for a couple of decades. Then I upgraded to a Supreme, so I could load large cases, the 500NE & 505Gibbs, both use 1" dies.
The original RockChucker was used until I bought an RCBS Turret press, then I lent it permanently to a buddy of mine, he only loads for 2 cartridges and it suits him perfectly.
Since my initial purchase, I have added a few powder measures, electronic scales and specialist trimmers and other case prep tools like flash hole deburrers and primer pocket uniformers.
The basics with good equipment will serve you well to start off, then as your experience and knowledge grows, you can upgrade to more advanced tools.
I, too, have charged 50 cases that were primerless, spilled powder in the loading block and all over the bench is a PITA! Check FIRST!
Cheers.
just country
Well-Known Member
morning, a good flashlight is a must to check
powder charges, powder case depth and check
primers. NEVER TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED.
also speed kills. justme gbot tum
powder charges, powder case depth and check
primers. NEVER TAKE ANYTHING FOR GRANTED.
also speed kills. justme gbot tum
Hand Skills
Well-Known Member
For me the easiest mistake is trusting my memory. I have pretty good memory and focus, but distractions occur. Time passes...
- Be meticulous.
Don't assume the flash holes are clear, or all brass is the same length. Verify everything with visual inspection. If something doesn't look right or feel right, investigate why.
- Work on a procedure.
Doing things the same way in the same order every time will prevent charging primerless cases and seating bullets into cases without powder. Most of us keep our 'operating manuals' in our heads, but I've learned to:
- Write it down
If you get lost, back up and verify the previous step. Write a label for the ammo you make. Date it. There may be an art to reloading, but a scientific approach makes things CONISITENT and REPEATABLE, and that's the name of the game.
- Be meticulous.
Don't assume the flash holes are clear, or all brass is the same length. Verify everything with visual inspection. If something doesn't look right or feel right, investigate why.
- Work on a procedure.
Doing things the same way in the same order every time will prevent charging primerless cases and seating bullets into cases without powder. Most of us keep our 'operating manuals' in our heads, but I've learned to:
- Write it down
If you get lost, back up and verify the previous step. Write a label for the ammo you make. Date it. There may be an art to reloading, but a scientific approach makes things CONISITENT and REPEATABLE, and that's the name of the game.
Read the directions on anything you will be using. That is the reason that so many get stuck cases using Hornady One Shot Lube. I use it exclusively following the directions since it came out and have never stuck a case. Don't get in a hurry doing anything. I was once really quickly sizing a bunch of 223 cases on a single stage press. I got too fast and pulled the handle before I got the case lined up properly and my finger out of the way. Nice cut on bottom of finger pad and primer punch through the top of the nail. REALLY HURT FOR A WHILE. Double and then double check again your data and scale set up. Once loaded one grain too little powder in 100 cases but caught the mistake before seating the bullets when I looked at the data to see what COAL I needed to seat the bullets to. Had to dump them all and refill with proper load. I also learned the hard way when going to the range with a bunch of different loads like doing a ladder test to place each batch of same load in ziplock bags with data included. Once got to the range with a 50 round box of different powder loads with the same bullet, case and primer and knocked it off the bench with the top not latched and they all came out of the box spilling on the ground. No way to tell now what rounds have the same powder charges.
If something don't sound or look right when shooting a load STOP and find out why.
If something don't sound or look right when shooting a load STOP and find out why.
Load for accuracy , not speed . Be patient . Enjoy your time at the bench . Keep good records ( I have been putting my load data and a picture of loaded cartridges in the note section of my phone ) . . . Learning about lead free bullets has been a bit of a challenge , length , bearing surface , seating depth , all create pressure variance . I live in CA so lead free is the name of the game .
Buy your own **** and stop using mine! Just kidding you can use my stuff all you want just ensure you keep them beers coming!!
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