Sheldon ks990 lathe?

[tobnpr]

In the big picture of things, he'd be much better off with a good 4 jaw on a back plate. That's much more versatile than a spider. The first thing a novice wants to do when he gets his first lathe is "chamber barrels". He'd be much better off gaining some experience, make some tools, and learn what he can and can't do with what he has

Well said.

 

[isaaccarlson]

I don't know when/if I would chamber a barrel. Maybe if I shoot my 22-250 barrel out or decide to make it a switch barrel. I might chamber a 22lr barrel, but that's down the road.

Everything is coming apart on this one. I have not touched the apron yet. I have a good understanding of machining and can indicate a part in about a minute, maybe less. I will be threading barrels, making kitchen knobs, various adapters, pulleys, parts for around the farm, and turning jet drive impellers (for my boat and the neighbor's). It is for stuff like that. It's a good, heavy, tight machine that should easily do what I need it to. I am glad I didn't buy the atlas lathe I was originally looking at. This one is worlds better.

Yes, I know a 4 jaw is best, but I don't have one right now, so I need to work around it until I get one. Spiders and a cathead will do just fine for that in a lot of applications. I am NOT looking to build rifles for people.

 

[Bob Wright]

I would collect as many scrap take off barrels just to practice all the primary turning operations just to try setups, gear changes, indicating centerlines, steady rest, tool selection, etc... Eventually pick up a used reamer and go "there". You'll learn a lot in the process. I don't want you to get talked out of trying and learning.
I started on precision grinding machines in the aero world. Went back to college, into engineering and bought myself a Bridgeport clone. It was pretty easy to pick up the milling discipline once you understand the shop basics of setting up correctly.
Have at it and wear some safety glasses!

 

[shortgrass]

I don't know when/if I would chamber a barrel. Maybe if I shoot my 22-250 barrel out or decide to make it a switch barrel. I might chamber a 22lr barrel, but that's down the road.

Everything is coming apart on this one. I have not touched the apron yet. I have a good understanding of machining and can indicate a part in about a minute, maybe less. I will be threading barrels, making kitchen knobs, various adapters, pulleys, parts for around the farm, and turning jet drive impellers (for my boat and the neighbor's). It is for stuff like that. It's a good, heavy, tight machine that should easily do what I need it to. I am glad I didn't buy the atlas lathe I was originally looking at. This one is worlds better.

Yes, I know a 4 jaw is best, but I don't have one right now, so I need to work around it until I get one. Spiders and a cathead will do just fine for that in a lot of applications. I am NOT looking to build rifles for people.

Even to do some chambering for yourself and maybe a few close friends later you need good tools and tooling. The most neglected part when a used lathe is bought is the chuck(s). Do yourself a favor, buy a decent 3 jaw and a decent 4 jaw. Back plate mount are preferred, as the back plate gets 'trued' to the machine before the chuck gets mounted. I'd avoid the 'used' chucks on e-bay. Buy new if you can. It doesn't have to be a Buck. I use my chambering lathe for lots of other tasks besides chambering, too. Buy a decent chuck to begin with, you'll avoid spending twice that way. You can spend all kinda' time going thru gear boxes and rebuilding this and that, but then trying to use chucks that aren't up to snuff will keep you wondering. A spider isn't nearly a rigid enough device to use for 'general' work. I'd be looking for a shop that can shear and bend a chip pan, too. Upgrading , cleaning up, repairing an old lathe to make it a usable tool can use up lots of dollars. Many times they're not the bargain they first appeared to be. (My lathe was down awhile back with an electrical problem, a switch failed. I bought this machine new, 25yrs ago. A switch from the manufacture is not available, it's obsolete. Couldn't find another switch that would "drop-in". Had to improvise and do some re-engineering to get 'her' running again. Good thing there's a vertical mill and another lathe in the shop, so I could fabricate what I needed to make a 'professional' repair and not just have to 'throw something together' to get it working again.)