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Rifle scope for elk hunting

I use a burris 4-14 with ballistic plex on my 7mm rem mag and I keep it set at 6 power unless I have time to range and set up for a long shot.
 
and have noticed the past couple years i never change it off of six power,

I notice you don't say how far you are killing animals and what is the range of an average shot and what is a long range shot that you make routinely.

I would not consider a scope on a long range rifle that did not have at least 20X mag and 50 mm objective. I f I am hunting pigs in the swamps of South Carolina I may go to iron sight as the ranges will be less than 100 yards. A scope or sights should be selected to fit the needs of the hunting habits
 
Probably 95% or more of the above scopes are second focal plane. Meaning- point of impact WILL change and change significantly at longer distances if a person changes the power settings around. When you zero the rifle at a certain magnification at a certain distance and make a drop chart it will work correctly at that magnification only. If the power is turned up or down from the original setting, point of impact will change. If we're talking about zoomed down in the brush at close range, it won't make any difference. However, at long range-watch out. Just something to be aware of.
 
Probably 95% or more of the above scopes are second focal plane. Meaning- point of impact WILL change and change significantly at longer distances if a person changes the power settings around. When you zero the rifle at a certain magnification at a certain distance and make a drop chart it will work correctly at that magnification only. If the power is turned up or down from the original setting, point of impact will change. If we're talking about zoomed down in the brush at close range, it won't make any difference. However, at long range-watch out. Just something to be aware of.


I don't know what to make of your post. Are you saying that if I sight my rifle in at 400 yards using 10 power then turn then power down to 4 my point of impact at 400 yards will change?

If that is what you're saying and that's the way I read your post your ill informed.

It does not make any difference whether the scope is first or second focal plane. Once a zero is established on any power at any range the zero will remain the same throughout the power range of the scope. A drop chart can be generated using the rifles zero of 100 yards or 600 yards. The zero has nothing to do with the accuracy of a drop chart. The drop chart will reflect either a dial up or dial down or hold over or hold under depending on the zero.

Now if you're talking about hold over using MOA or Mill Dots then there is a difference between first and second focal plane scopes. The marks in a first focal plane scope are correct throughout the power range whereas in the second focal plane the scope usually has to be set to the highest power or at 50% and do the math.
 
I don't know what to make of your post. Are you saying that if I sight my rifle in at 400 yards using 10 power then turn then power down to 4 my point of impact at 400 yards will change?

If that is what you're saying and that's the way I read your post your ill informed.

It does not make any difference whether the scope is first or second focal plane. Once a zero is established on any power at any range the zero will remain the same throughout the power range of the scope. A drop chart can be generated using the rifles zero of 100 yards or 600 yards. The zero has nothing to do with the accuracy of a drop chart. The drop chart will reflect either a dial up or dial down or hold over or hold under depending on the zero.

Now if you're talking about hold over using MOA or Mill Dots then there is a difference between first and second focal plane scopes. The marks in a first focal plane scope are correct throughout the power range whereas in the second focal plane the scope usually has to be set to the highest power or at 50% and do the math.

The last portion of your post most closely relates to what I was trying to get across. I wasn't necessarily talking about the zero changing but "hold over" marks in the scope causing poi issues. Example: I know some guys that use Leupold 3.5-10VXIII's who like to zero the rifle and use the bottom heavy duplex for an aiming point for a certain range. That range could be 450 yards with the scope turned up to 10X. If the power is turned down, the poi (at 450 yards) will change using the same aiming point of the thin/heavy duplex intersection.
 
Leupold 4x12x40 CDS on .375H&H. Scope stays dialed down to 4x until more x's are needed. The CDS means I do not have to worry about being on max power for the ranging stadia to be accurate. The 40mm objective in low mounts keeps the scope low to the rifle for a good, repeatable cheek weld.
 
I'm a bit confused about this change of POI with different power settings. If I zero my scope at two inches high at 100 yards@10X,then dial in my shots to hit that point. Now I change the scope to 6X. Shouldn't I still hit at two inches high at 100 yards?
 
I'm a bit confused about this change of POI with different power settings. If I zero my scope at two inches high at 100 yards@10X,then dial in my shots to hit that point. Now I change the scope to 6X. Shouldn't I still hit at two inches high at 100 yards?


Once a scope is zeroed at any range the change of power is ill relevant to point of impact. Point of impact remains the same throughout the power range whether on 2 power or 10 power.

Most people sight in at 100 yards with the scope on the highest power for clarity and hunt with the scope set on the lowest power. Point of impact is consistant throughout.
 
I use a Leupold VXIII 4 1/2 X 14 on my custom .300 Wby. It has a Leupold ballistic turret that is made for my handloads. Depends on the terrain & cover which setting I use. The 14x really comes in handy when I am punching holes in paper, use it for shooting the the spotter for results. I usually don't use it iver the 10x when I hunting.

Great combination and suits me fine.
 
I switched to 6-24x50 bushnell elite 4200 last year and find I end up shooting on 24x all most exclusively but like having the 6x for target acquisition......I got hooked on that magnification and no longer Need the spotter for the hunt. Still need the spotter to plan the hunt but not necessarily when climbing the mountain. Now all my 12x scopes seem inadequate altho I know even a fixed 4 will reach way out there with the right reticle. I really like that 24x when getting ready to drop the hammer................Duke
 
Interesting comments. I'm preparing for my first oppportunity to Elk hunt and setting up a new rifle. I topped it with a Leupold VX2 3-9x CDS model. I was leaning towards the 4-12x but chose the 3-9x in the end. I'm accustom to close in hunting in PA, so the higher bottom end seemed a bit high for me (majority of my scopes are 1-4x and 2-7x). I also liked the brightness of the 3-9x over the 4-12x.

Working on my loads for the CDS dials now. Leupold's special promoting the new VX2 CDS scopes will provide the opportunity to set up two load options (probably a 180gr and 165gr variation).
 
Unlike the experts on this forum I'm all in favor of straight power scopes, lighter, crisper, faster to use, nothing to adjust mess with or fall apart in the field. I'd go with a 6x for mixed trees and open western hunting. Maybe an 8x if youre not gonna hunt the thick stuff, or put it up on see thru rings ( OMG no real pro uses those THINGS :( LOL ) . Actually 6x is ideal for all western hunting to 600y. Good luck.
 
I would advise using a Bushnell 3x9. Remember its not how far away you can shoot an elk, its how much pleasure you can get from the hunt. Never bog yourself down with making hunting stressful.
 
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